180 or 190 Thermostat

[Wild one]

The 5th gen should run variable speed. Go with the 190° and if you have the capability see if you can set fan on speed to 190° for 10-15% fan speed and then 195° to 30% and so on. Not sure if hp can do that. I towed my fathers boat and got up to 200°f on the bridge leaving the boat ramp. Mine is set 50% fan speed at 200°f but I run a standalone controller for the fan on my 4th gen. I run the 190° stant tstat. The 5th gen electric fan is a great fan. There is the 850w larger fan if you really need to swap to a larger cooling fan but I only have the 600w version and it is more than enough for me in south Florida so far

I don't know if i'd go with those fan on temps with a 190 t-stat Khris. The fan's not accomplishing much being on at 190 while doing 60 mph,except putting stress on the fan motor and electrical system to it.

 

[Wild one]

There are some good ideas here, I'm going to get a tstat first and see how that does. Still deciding 180 vs 190, I'd prefer the 180 but worried that the truck is programmed to sit at 203 and will do something silly like burn more fuel to heat it up until it reaches that temp, or that maybe I'll get problems with condensation or fuel in my oil etc. This is all new to me and I've read differing reports but not sure where the truth is all this.

You're not going to get fuel or condensation in your oil,as your oil temps aren't going to drop a hell'va lot from a thermostat change.The coolent will run noticably cooler,but you won't take all that much heat out of your oil temps.To take heat out of the oil you need to run either dual relocated filters or an oil cooler. Throw a 180 in it,and don't touch your fans on/off parameters and see what happens,if it turns out you don't like it,you can either try a 190 or throw the stock t-stat back in,and you're not out much except an hours time and the price of a thermostat,and you'll have satisified your curiousity.Only way you're going to find out,is actually try it,all the internet advice isn't going to do you squat if you don't actually try it.

 

[Willie Mosher]

All engines are tested in Death Valley
Cailf, like 125f, tow at maximum weight, going to low temperature
Is mostly going cause problems,

Okay put mid or 91 octane,
A drive it. Isn’t broken.

 

[Wild one]

Gotta love advice from internet guru's who've never actually tried an idea out,but they know all about these supposedly problems an idea will cause,and then reconmend buying fuel that's roughly another 50 cents or more a gallon especially in Canada
2 tanks of fuel has more then paid for a thermostat,just saying

 

[crazykid1994]

I don't know if i'd go with those fan on temps with a 190 t-stat Khris. The fan's not accomplishing much being on at 190 while doing 60 mph,except putting stress on the fan motor and electrical system to it.

Actually 15% on at 190° is fine given the design of the fan. The new design basically runs constant for the ac anyways but at varying speeds. They do not do an on off cycle setup like older style fans. The stock ac fan in our trucks was designed as a secondary cooling for the ac and run off the ac pressure switch. The stock clutch fan on the water pump did the majority of the cooling. Honestly I did way too much research into them before wanting to go that route in my truck. I actually have mine set to 15% fan speed at 160° to help lower engine bay temp and kicks up to 30% fan speed at 195°. The truck fluctuates right at 194-195° which should be fine as my 190° tstat is pretty much full open somewhere between 195-200°. 15% fan speed is very negligible on the fan motor. Also running the fan at 15% helps to keep the engine at a more stable temperature. It’s no different that the stock clutch fan spinning at all times when the engine is warmed up.

 

[ramffml]

You're not going to get fuel or condensation in your oil,as your oil temps aren't going to drop a hell'va lot from a thermostat change.The coolent will run noticably cooler,but you won't take all that much heat out of your oil temps.To take heat out of the oil you need to run either dual relocated filters or an oil cooler. Throw a 180 in it,and don't touch your fans on/off parameters and see what happens,if it turns out you don't like it,you can either try a 190 or throw the stock t-stat back in,and you're not out much except an hours time and the price of a thermostat,and you'll have satisified your curiousity.Only way you're going to find out,is actually try it,all the internet advice isn't going to do you squat if you don't actually try it.

I do have an oil filter relocation kit, I hope to have that installed this week as its finally warm enough to lay on my back in the driveway here; I usually do an oil change in may sometime. It's a single though, the one from pacbrake.

So my plan is:
- install the pacbrake and see if oil temps change (probably nothing signifcant)
- install a 180/190 depending on result of pacbrake
- install a catch can (possibly help reduce ping under load)
- tuning the fan

You're right of course that at a certain point I have to try it. But I also like to know what I'm getting into before I do it and be aware of potential problems. I'm very cautious with my expensive toys So that's where the hemming and hawing comes from.

 

[ramffml]

The thermostat does not change your peak temp point. It just makes it take longer to get there. For some that’s long enough to crest the hill before hitting the same peak temp. It also does not cool down faster as cooling ability is all controlled by fan and radiator. The stock radiator and fan are decent in the rams. The only benefit would be to swap up to the larger cooling fan. You can try doing research to see if the larger fan is a direct fit onto the radiator as that would help more than swapping the thermostat. Especially if you are not planning on tuning.

That was my understanding as well so thanks for that explanation. Same thing with the AGS delete, doesn't prevent overheating it just lowers your starting point a bit and buys you a bit more time to crest a larger hill.

 

[ramffml]

All engines are tested in Death Valley
Cailf, like 125f, tow at maximum weight, going to low temperature
Is mostly going cause problems,

Okay put mid or 91 octane,
A drive it. Isn’t broken.

You're welcome to your opinion. I however have watched my temps climb and climb while running up hills and I'm not comfortable hitting temps past 430 degrees. And yes I'm definitely running 91 while towing. I do run 89 in the winter as its just a daily driver then.

The engine also pings much more often when its hot.

 

[Wild one]

I do have an oil filter relocation kit, I hope to have that installed this week as its finally warm enough to lay on my back in the driveway here; I usually do an oil change in may sometime. It's a single though, the one from pacbrake.

So my plan is:
- install the pacbrake and see if oil temps change (probably nothing signifcant)
- install a 180/190 depending on result of pacbrake
- install a catch can (possibly help reduce ping under load)
- tuning the fan

You're right of course that at a certain point I have to try it. But I also like to know what I'm getting into before I do it and be aware of potential problems. I'm very cautious with my expensive toys So that's where the hemming and hawing comes from.

The single remote filter won't take all that much heat out of your oil temps,at least it didn't on my truck,i didn't notice a drop in oil temps till i went to the dual filter set-up,but the single set-up is definitely worth a try though,as it'll make oil changes that much easier to do. Is your PacBrake kit set-up to use the older 3/4-16 thread pitch filters,if so,you'll be able to use the bigger old style 30-8 style Ford and early Dodge filters.I'm not sure how big an off the shelf (aka easy to get) filter you can get that uses the later 22mm X 1.5 thread pitch filters

 

[Canadian-Hemi]

Towing season is right around the corner. Still not happy with the temps I'm seeing in my truck unloaded, and also the pinging/knocking I get when temps get higher (never hear a ping when it's cold). I've already remove the active grill shutters but to be honest that just seems to lower my starting/normal temps by a few degrees but when the temps begin to climb it doesn't seem to help anymore at that point.

So I want to try a thermostat next. Can anyone recommend a good candidate? And @Wild one would you think a 180 is too cold for winters in Canada if I "never" see outside temps below -20C where I live?

I watched a video on how to replace it, looks much easier than I thought. Looks like they just clamped the hose down near the thermostat, pulled out two bolts, swapped and put the bolts back in. Some other questions I have:
- do these have a specific orientation (like is there a top/bottom to these thermostats)
- after the new one is in, do you put more antifreeze back in the rad or the overflow
- no issues with air getting into the system there?
- any other tips?

I don't do much wrenching as you can tell.

I'm a Canadian, and I removed the clutch fan and run a 180° with no problems in either season.

 

[ramffml]

The single remote filter won't take all that much heat out of your oil temps,at least it didn't on my truck,i didn't notice a drop in oil temps till i went to the dual filter set-up,but the single set-up is definitely worth a try though,as it'll make oil changes that much easier to do. Is your PacBrake kit set-up to use the older 3/4-16 thread pitch filters,if so,you'll be able to use the bigger old style 30-8 style Ford and early Dodge filters.I'm not sure how big an off the shelf (aka easy to get) filter you can get that uses the later 22mm X 1.5 thread pitch filters

I believe it just uses factory threads, so I'll be able to run the large Fram XG2, the RP 20-820 etc. Right now I'm stuck on the small Fram/RP.

I'm a Canadian, and I removed the clutch fan and run a 180° with no problems in either season.

So you leave the 180 in fr the winter too? If so I'm assuming you have no trouble heating your cabin for our more mild winters (compared to AB/MB etc)?

 

[Wild one]

I believe it just uses factory threads, so I'll be able to run the large Fram XG2, the RP 20-820 etc. Right now I'm stuck on the small Fram/RP.



So you leave the 180 in fr the winter too? If so I'm assuming you have no trouble heating your cabin for our more mild winters (compared to AB/MB etc)?

Can you swap the 22mm-1.5 nipple out for the older 3/4-16 nipple on the pacbrake kit,as you can access bigger filters for the older 3/4-16 nipple.
I just looked at the pacbrake kit,and it doesn't impress me all that much.It uses 90 degree fittings which i'm not a big fan of,and it looks like you're stuck with 22mm X 1.5 filters.It's better then the stock set-up,but if i was buying it,i'd be getting rid of the 90's.

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[ramffml]

Can you swap the 22mm-1.5 nipple out for the older 3/4-16 nipple on the pacbrake kit,as you can access bigger filters for the older 3/4-16 nipple.
I just looked at the pacbrake kit,and it doesn't impress me all that much.It uses 90 degree fittings which i'm not a big fan of,and it looks like you're stuck with 22mm X 1.5 filters.It's better then the stock set-up,but if i was buying it,i'd be getting rid of the 90's.

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Doesn't look like I can swap the nipple. My OCI's are pretty tame, I do about 7500 miles max on a filter so I should be good with the bigger fram and rp options with factory nipple.

 

[Wild one]

Doesn't look like I can swap the nipple. My OCI's are pretty tame, I do about 7500 miles max on a filter so I should be good with the bigger fram and rp options with factory nipple.

The more i look at the Pacbrake kit,the less it impresses me. At the very least i'd be dumping the 90 degree ORB fittings for 45's. The 90 out from the adapter really doesn't impress me

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[Willie Mosher]

You're welcome to your opinion. I however have watched my temps climb and climb while running up hills and I'm not comfortable hitting temps past 430 degrees. And yes I'm definitely running 91 while towing. I do run 89 in the winter as its just a daily driver then.

The engine also pings much more often when its hot.

Sorry sir, 430 F ?
Did miss it we talked about water
Cooler system engine?
Or transmission ?
I was talking about engine cooling,

 

[Willie Mosher]

 

[ramffml]

Sorry sir, 430 F ?
Did miss it we talked about water
Cooler system engine?
Or transmission ?
I was talking about engine cooling,

My bad, typo, I meant 230F and that was for the oil.

 

[Colt4thHorseman]

230F for oil is well within the operating range of oil. Max oil temp for most synthetic oil is about 280-300 F. Nothing is wrong with your oil temp. That’s why you can’t fix it.
If you are concerned about 230F, put in an oil cooler.
Just that simple.

 

[ramffml]

Just as an update, I have the 180 thermostat installed now.

Temps have definitely dropped while driving.

After the AGS delete my coolant was about 199 to 203, now they're at 185 to 188.
Oil temps were about 208 to 212, now they're about 203 to 212.

So my coolant had the biggest change and that stays cooler. Oil definitely takes longer to get hotter, and on average it runs a few degs cooler, but longer hotter drives will still bump up against the same range as before.

If there is no wind, no change to temps, just takes longer now before the fan kicks on.

Haven't tried towing yet to see what average oil temps are doing.

 

[ramffml]

Most recent towing trip yesterday. The coolant stayed nice and cool, about 195F average while maintaining 63 mph. The oil temps climbed slower than before, but still reached 224F peak.

I'm very happy with the coolant which is obviously much cooler, but the oil is still strangely high for my taste.

How is it possible there can be such a gap between coolant temps and oil temps? I feel that coolant dropped quite a bit but oil barely runs any cooler relative to the drop in coolant, so what is happening; why is the system not removing more heat from the oil?