2017 Approaching 100k, How Deep Should I go?

[KnurledNut]

There's been no issues with her and she's paid off! No sense in buying new.

Aside from the plugs, brakes, and general inspection, what else should I do? All fluids replaced? Rotors as a precaution?

 

[Travelin Ram]

You forgot to include what the maintenance history to date is. Has it had anything more than engine oil changes?

 

[NETim]

I'd be inclined to perform a transmission drain and fill (new pan and filter naturally). Brake fluid flush. Diff fluid changed. Transfer case fluid changed.

If you change the brake rotors, do the pads as well.

 

[kurek]

sauce is cheaper than steel. Replace all of 'em

 

[BenWade]

My 2014 got the following at 100k...Front/rear diffs, transfer case, coolant, trans, front/rear brakes (incl rotors), UCAs, belt & pulleys, spark plugs, PCV valve and a BG EPR engine flush. Currently at 160k...

 

[RJL1]

I'll add what I do to my 210,000 mile Jeep JKUR that we bought new.

Engine oil and 5 tire rotation every 5K
Transmission, diff's, t-case and engine drive belt every 50K
Coolant flush every 75K
Plugs, wires and ignition module every 100K
Rotors, calipers and brakes as needed, brake fluid change whenever I do the brakes.

My 1500 is just over 60K and did the above mentioned fluids except the transmission at 50K. Gonna do that at 75K along with the coolant.

Both run and look like new.

 

[rzr6-4]

I see no reason to do pads or rotors unless they are wore down and need it. It's not like they "go bad" so you're just throwing away good material.

Fluids for sure and plugs if it's been a while.

 

[KnurledNut]

You forgot to include what the maintenance history to date is. Has it had anything more than engine oil changes?

Nothing shop worthy. She threw a code at 62k which turned out to be the gas cap seal. I did the PCV at the same time. Aside from some dings & dents, nothing.

p.s. before someone calls me out yes, she's had her regular maintenance, oil, filters, brake pads, tires.

 

[KnurledNut]

I will add all the fluids to the list.

What about suspension parts?

 

[04fxdwgi]

I will add all the fluids to the list.

What about suspension parts?

Inspect and change as needed.

 

[Travelin Ram]

If you’re in it for the long haul, how’s the rust situation? Is Cali taking care of it, or does it need some Fluid Film or something similar?

If you have any worn or damaged door seals, might want to replace them before OEM becomes NA. Ditto driver’s seat cushion.

 

[olyelr]

If you’re in it for the long haul, how’s the rust situation? Is Cali taking care of it, or does it need some Fluid Film or something similar?

If you have any worn or damaged door seals, might want to replace them before OEM becomes NA. Ditto driver’s seat cushion.

I kinda lol’d about the seat cushion, but so true haaaaaa.



But yea i agree with everyone else, hit up all the fluids for sure, and then just check up on the other stuff and replace as needed.

 

[farout75]

There's been no issues with her and she's paid off! No sense in buying new.

Aside from the plugs, brakes, and general inspection, what else should I do? All fluids replaced? Rotors as a precaution?

At 98,000 I has plugs and egr valve, at 120 I has trams, and filter, transfer case both axels, all done. No issue all. now at 141,800.

 

[David James]

There's been no issues with her and she's paid off! No sense in buying new.

Aside from the plugs, brakes, and general inspection, what else should I do? All fluids replaced? Rotors as a precaution?

Trans fluid, coolant, brake fluid. The usuals.I do a 60k trans fluid exchange, 100k coolant, about 50k on brake fluid. Drive 20k acyear, mostly hoghways.Looks like you have the rest covered.

 

[ike2010]

I was in the same boat at 100k (111k now). I replaced every oil, grease, and fluid in the vehicle. Replaced pads and rotors, but only because they were worn and due not because of the 100k. Did an engine clean treatment. Put on new shocks - had some rattles at highway speeds over bumps and those went away with new shocks. I just recently got the "good" HEMI Tick - some of the exhaust manifold bolts snaped, not bad lifters - so I'm putting on shorty headers and having them put on a new water pump kit while they have it on the lift. Also put new leather in the inside. Hopefully she's good for another 100k with routine maintenance. I really, really like the recently announced Ramcharger though, so maybe I'll change my mind for the truck next year

 

[Richard Kim]

Don't forget the PVC and pulleys (+tensioner).

 

[Jeepwalker]

Looks like a fine truck!

I agree with what the others suggested. If you train yourself to get in/out in a way so as not to over-stress the seat cover/cushion, it'll last you a lot longer. If it's too late and you really are in it for the long haul, you might consider keeping an eye out for replacement OEM seat bottom. Esp if yours is leather.

The cushion/cover is pretty easy to replace as a DIY (if you have some skills), or an auto upholstery shop could do it easily. But the factory doesn't keep covers onhand very long, so it's worth to keep a driver's side. Or an upholstery shop could sew in a piece of leather in place of a worn piece too. Outer window seals are another item quickly discontinued by dealers. Usually aftermarket solutions are available. Although not 'quite' as good as OEM IMO. But they work ok if yer not picky.

 

[Jeepwalker]

It's a good idea to put some oil 'treatment' in the door bottoms, hood corners, tailgate, cab corners/rockers, and rear wheel wells. I guess it depends on where in FL you are located. I know everyone here says 'Fluid Film' but the rear wheel lip has a seam-sealer and I highly doubt fluid film is goiing to migrate past that. Meaning the rear lip won't get 'treated' for rust proofing like it should. It's a common rust area in other parts of the country. FL is pretty good, but if you wanted an extra measure of protection. Study the drawing (i made below) closely.

 

[Wild one]

At 98,000 I has plugs and egr valve, at 120 I has trams, and filter, transfer case both axels, all done. No issue all. now at 141,800.

You might want to find a better dealer if they sold you an EGR valve for a 2017. They haven't had egr on the 5.7's for years,ever since they went to a VVT system

 

[Dusty]

It's a good idea to put some oil 'treatment' in the door bottoms, hood corners, tailgate, cab corners/rockers, and rear wheel wells. I guess it depends on where in FL you are located. I know everyone here says 'Fluid Film' but the rear wheel lip has a seam-sealer and I highly doubt fluid film is goiing to migrate past that. Meaning the rear lip won't get 'treated' for rust proofing like it should. It's a common rust area in other parts of the country. FL is pretty good, but if you wanted an extra measure of protection. Study the drawing (i made below) closely.

View attachment 531745

Good suggestion.

I've noticed that from 2010 to 2014 the factory used more seam sealant, and on my 2019 they used a lot!

I flush this area out with a garden hose several times a year.

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 101658 miles.