545RE alternative

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Redtruck-VA

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Most everyone knows the 545re trans is a weak link with our trucks when used hard or when making good power they often break. This is what I found when doing a little research on converting to a GM transmission. It isn't necessary to actually jump through a lot of hoops here. The trusty old 727 Torqueflite 3 spd turns out to be the tool of choice for serious 1/4 mile work. Next comes the 727 with a aftermarket OD unit, these also have low parasitic losses. Next comes the A518 which also goes by the name 46RH, has a lockup TC and it's OD is .69 where the 545 is .67 actually less than 2mph difference at 2500 rpm, but due to more parasitic loss runs about 2 tenths slower than a all out 727. We talking about trans brakes, manual VB's all the goodies.. and NO TCM mucking things up. Now did you know that it'll bolt up using a shim to get the TC clearance that is necessary. There is actually ways around that also when modified flex plats are used. Will need a modified cross member and driveshaft. Nice new aluminum driveshaft would be good to have anyway. And the best part this can be done for about the same price as a 500hp built 545 but using a 750+hp A518. You can bet when old Red's 545 goes south it'll have a A518 going back in. Inputs always welcomed..
 

HemiLonestar

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If you're going with a straight quarter miler, then hell yeah go with a t-flite. With short gears a 3 speed isn't fun on the road for long distances or higher speeds. A Gear Vendors OD Unit will help alot with that. That was my original plan for my 440 Monaco before Katrina took it away. I was going to put a GV unit on it and then but 4.10s or 4.56's in the rear to get that 4600lb beast moving (2.76 open just didn't cut it).
One question I have is how the PCM is going to behave (or not) without the trans inputs, unless you plan to go with a manual trans hemi PCM (2500?) in it's place?
 
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Redtruck-VA

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If you're going with a straight quarter miler, then hell yeah go with a t-flite. With short gears a 3 speed isn't fun on the road for long distances or higher speeds. A Gear Vendors OD Unit will help alot with that. That was my original plan for my 440 Monaco before Katrina took it away. I was going to put a GV unit on it and then but 4.10s or 4.56's in the rear to get that 4600lb beast moving (2.76 open just didn't cut it).
One question I have is how the PCM is going to behave (or not) without the trans inputs, unless you plan to go with a manual trans hemi PCM (2500?) in it's place?[/QUOTE]

Reading on the Durango forum it was said a fellow did a manual conversion and simply removed the TCM and it wasn't a problem. I was told a 03 will run fine with the TCM removed and of course the PCM can be flashed for a manual trans and/or a 2500 PCM used. My money would be to flash the PCM for a manual configuration.
 

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Then you should be GTG.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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In an email exchange with Martin I mis-spoke about Transbrake and Manual Valve Body, Martin then took the time to explain them to me and educate me on this series of transmission and capabilities. I haven't bought anything from Martin, but you can bet with this level of support I will.

Hey Gregg,
Let me see if I can assist with some understanding on the 518 trans operation in regards to "Trans Loc" (I'll assume we're talking about a TransBrake??), and Manual VB.

First off, some very simplified (for the sake of time and writing!) trans operational theory.
The following will apply to:
904,
727,
999 (bit of a rare bird),
AND
Overdrive units,
A-500 (overdrive equipped 904, mechanical governor circuit),
A-518 (overdrive equipped 727, mechanical governor circuit).
42RH, 44RH (mechanical equivalent to the A-500)
46RH (mechanical equivalent to the A-518)
42, 44, 46RE, (evolution of the A-500 and A-518. Uses electronic governor pressure solenoid to generate governor pressure rather than the mechanical governors in the earlier units)

A-618, 47RH, 47RE (Diesel and V-10 engines only. Different bellhousing pattern, interchangable internals with other cases, provided you know the parts and pieces to keep everything operating together. Followed same evolutionary pattern of mechanical gov, to electronic gov). Early 618's had OD, but no TCC. The cases were the same, but VB is obviously different, and the block adapter from Cummins engine to Dodge transmission is shallower on a non-lock application. Can swap over to lock-up style, but need an additional 3/4" clearance from block to bellhousing, or later style block adapter.

These transmissions all have three forward gears that operate via hydraulic controls in the VB. Overdrive units have a fourth forward gear OD operating a planetary gear set via hydraulic controls, but triggered by electronic signals from the PCM. Take away the PCM or other extraneous electric circuit and you will have no fourth gear or TCC engagement.

I listed them all together because for all intents and purposes the valvebodies and components work basically the same in all the listed units in regards to 1-2 and 2-3 shifts in operation stretching all the way back to '63 in general operational significance.

The primary circuits we will be discussing are:
Line Pressure. (I'll call this apply pressure in various places for understanding purposes). This is the hydraulic pressure generated by the pump as it is supplied to the various clutches and bands to create the shifts and maintain clamping loads to prevent slipping. Line pressure will increase with rpm and is ultimately controlled by the line pressure spring and valve, as well as the Boost Valve where pressure is increased when in OD and with TCC engaged. Also indirectly affected by Throttle Pressure as it rises and falls.

Throttle Pressure. Throttle pressure is controlled by a mechanical connection to the carb or throttle body on the vehicle. As you apply more throttle, the TV is forced inward, generating more throttle pressure in the trans. I'll explain how this comes into affect later..
The exception to this is the 48RE which uses a TVA (throttle valve actuator) to move the lever up and down to raise or lower the throttle pressure.

Governor Pressure. Governor pressure is either generated by a mechanical governor assembly or through a pulse solenoid in the RE units to provide 1 PSI Gov pressure per 1 mph. Obviously this means your gov pressure should rise in lock step with your road speed.


Now for some operational application.

Imagine a cylindrical valve with three separate hydraulic zones.
One end has Governor pressure acting against it pushing it from left to right, the other end has Throttle Pressure acting against it pushing it from right to left with a spring holding it in the left position, and the middle zone has Line Pressure waiting to be released into a port when the valve slides to the RIGHT.
We'll call this the 1-2 shift valve.

When at full left position, Line pressure is available to the Forward clutches which give First Gear, but the Line pressure cannot get into the circuits that apply Second gear because the valve blocks the port when at the full Left position, so all you have is First Gear.
As road speed increases, so does Governor Pressure, which is acting on the left end of the valve. When Governor pressure is adequate to override the spring on the right end of the valve, the valve moves over to the right, opening the port for Line Pressure to apply the Intermediate Band, which stops the Direct Drum, causing the planetary gear set to provide Second Gear.
As we discussed earlier, Throttle Pressure increases with throttle application, so as the Governor Pressure is rising on the left end of the 1-2 shift valve, Throttle Pressure is rising on the Right end. This is why shifts occur at lower rpms with light throttle than with WOT. The Governor pressure has to rise enough to overcome the static load of the spring AND whatever load is being generated by the Throttle Pressure circuit. More Throttle pressure generated, more gov pressure is required, thus more road speed must be attained before the Gov circuit can override the spring and TV circuit and push the valve to the right and open the port exposing Line Pressure to operate Second Gear.

OK, now that we have shifted into Second Gear, forget the 1-2 shift valve and assume it will stay in it's fully open position for the remainder of our discussion.
Line Pressure is now going through the 1-2 shift valve to the "middle port" of a similar valve: the 2-3 shift valve.
The 2-3 shift valve has Governor Pressure and Throttle Pressure and static spring forces acting against it, just like the 1-2 valve.
Thus, to generate a 2-3 shift, Governor Pressure must rise enough to override the spring and applied Throttle Pressure and push the valve to the right side, exposing the third gear port to Line Pressure. Third gear shift is a bit more complex in that the Intermediate Band must release and the Direct Clutch pack engage simultaneously! Mess up the timing on this shift and you will have burnt clutches and bands in short order!
So the Third gear shift is accomplished by releasing the Intermediate Band and engaging the clutches in the Direct Drum, which causes the Direct Drum to go from ZERO rpms, to Engine rpms, INSTANTLY! This causes the planetary set to go static and provides a direct power flow path from the input shaft straight through the Intermediate shaft into the OD unit.


OK, so now you're in Third gear, Line Pressure is now feeding into the circuits that allow both OD and TCC apply via PCM engagement of the OD and TCC solenoids, which then operate valves to send hyd pressure to the various elements required to shift into OD and lock up the converter clutch.

Involved in all this is a host of additional valves which control flow, pressure, timing, exhaust, lubrication, etc. Apply pressure is rising and falling with Throttle Pressure to produce soft shifts at light throttle, getting progressively firmer the more throttle is applied. Granted, this is all a bit of oversimplification, but not writing a novel here! LOL!

The net result of a properly built Auto shift VB is that your shift firmness can be tailored to be light at part throttle, getting firmer as you increase the throttle input. A properly built performance automatic transmission should provide lightning quick and firm shifts at all times without being overly harsh to upset the chassis or passengers!


The thread is too long and will be continued in next posting.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Continued from pervious post.



NOW,
A Full Manual Valvebody bypasses this drama by providing hydraulic Line pressure to the required circuit to engage each gear, without using Governor Pressure or Throttle Pressure.
A Manual Valvebody eliminates any automated shifting by eliminating the gov and tv circuits for the sake of simplicity.

The benefit, (and the drawback) to a Manual Valvebody is that 100% full pressure is supplied to all shift circuits, EVERY TIME! Don't be looking for any soft shifts, cause you're not gonna get one! It's all bang, all the time.
If you have a high stall converter it will absorb some of this harshness and make it driveable if that's your thing and you really want it.

The benefit of the Full Manual VB is particularly useful in race applications where throttle is either all on or all off, so no need for all the part throttle shift patterns.
With a Full Manual VB the TV cable and/or linkage is completely eliminated and unnecessary.
Another application that benefits is large cube, high compression, supercharged, and particularly turbo charged applications.
A well built turbo engine can easily produce 80%+ of it's peak torque with 50% or less throttle opening. Obviously, with an automatic valvebody this will mean that less apply pressure is available since the throttle is not open very far, and the TV circuit is not maximized.
A Full Manual Valvebody eliminates this concern by providing maximum apply pressure all the time, regardless of throttle opening.

Manual valve bodies are termed as Reverse (shift pattern P-R-N-1-2-3), Forward pattern (stock shift pattern).
And in Band Apply, or Free wheel. This one is a discussion all to itself for another time perhaps...


However, very few are actually willing to put a Full Manual Valvebody into their daily driver street car!
This is where a Constant Pressure VB comes into play. Our Constant Pressure valve bodies provide full manual pressures to every gear, every time, but retain the automatic shifting function. The TV circuit is retained, but only used to regulate shift timing, not shift pressure.
The result is a full manual valve body that will shift itself just like an automatic VB.
The TV cable, linkage, or TVA if you have a 48RE, must be retained so that you can time the shifts to your liking.
The beauty is if you have that high horsepower application that will generate a large portion of it's power with smaller throttle opening, you don't need to worry about killing off your components that rely on apply pressure to keep them happy and still have an auto shifting trans!



Now, the last issue TransBrake. I assume that's what you meant by TransLoc. If not, let me know!

A TransBrake is a fabulous tool in that it locks the transmission up when staging for launch by applying the reverse and intermediate band at the same time. This locks the intermediate shaft (or output shaft on an older non-OD trans) so that it cannot move, preventing any power from going rearward. As long as the transbrake is engaged, provided nothing in the trans is slipping, the vehicle will not move. You can bury the throttle to the floor at the tree and just release the transbrake when you get the light.
When the button is released, the intermediate band lets go, allowing the power to instantly proceed rearward violently!
TransBrake launches are wickedly brutal! The only thing that could come close is an old school Neutral Drop where you floor the gas in Neutral, let the revs build like crazy, then throw it in Drive. Except with a proper trans brake equipped trans, you don't have to go back and gather up all the shrapnel every time you leave the line!

A transbrake is really only needed if you drag race and are looking for consistency, or if you have a serious vehicle and need the transbrake to shock the suspension and hit the slicks hard at launch.

On a street tire, the transbrake will only produce the greatest smokey burnouts you've ever had......


When contemplating a particular build, it's always best to have a trans builder/designer you trust and go over EVERYTHING with him. Let him design the trans that will survive and thrive in your application and provide the best performance for your hard earned dollar.
Simply buying all the "shiny bits" and stuffing them in a case does not a performance transmission make!

Hopefully this answers the questions you had, and maybe generates a few more LOL!

Feel free to re-post this in your thread if you find it helpful.

Regards,


Martin Saine
MSaine Performance
951-907-0434
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Exchanging ideas with Martin while he continues to educate me with what has proven to work. This will be a no brainer when the old 545 decides it nolonger wants to play.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Talking with a couple of folks in the know and they have confirmed the manual trans model trucks do not have a TCM, So the deal is manual trans flash and remove the TCM. The A518/46RH actually did come originally with a TCM but there are work arounds using pressure switches to control the TCC and OD without using the OEM TCM.
 

03MopaRamman

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I understood the last Post!...Lol...Good stuff Greg Too bad the Forgiving Mercedes Nag-1 from a Car couldn't work. I will need more time to fully understand the above....Coffee # 2 on the Go!
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Does anyone have a goto guy for PCM reflashes such as to reflash my 03 PCM to a manual configuration?
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Good food for thought there. All I can figure would be a good tec guy at a dealer who is willing to do a PCM flash with that file. Its gonna be a PITA to find a guy to do it though with more and more tec's wanting to do less work.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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My local dealership is useless. I guess I could send it in to one of those PCM refurbish places. just wondering if someone had a hookup.
I also need a lobotomy done on it....
 
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KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Mine is to, they think the stuff is cool but wont touch anything other then offer to test drive it.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Mine is to, they think the stuff is cool but wont touch anything other then offer to test drive it.

Exactly same with mine, although I'll give credit when credit is due, I went to parts and ordered a SRT IAT sensor (long one) and the guy had it the next day. He said he didn't think they had a sensor for less than $40 and the sensor was only $4. He was amazed. I asked for a MAP sensor for the 03 and he had a total failure. Oh well....
 

HemiLonestar

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I haven't tried to do a reflash yet (haven't needed to). Guess I could find out how...?
 

98hemi-ram

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Try talking to Chris at hotwireauto.com he might be able to reflash it for you or at least help point you in the right direction. I know he sells PCM's programmed to work with 545, 727, manual trans and just about whatever else you can think of. He's the guy that custom built the harness for my Hemi swap into a 98 ram. He even programmed my trucks VIN into the new PCM.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Try talking to Chris at hotwireauto.com he might be able to reflash it for you or at least help point you in the right direction. I know he sells PCM's programmed to work with 545, 727, manual trans and just about whatever else you can think of. He's the guy that custom built the harness for my Hemi swap into a 98 ram. He even programmed my trucks VIN into the new PCM.

Great, I had forgot about Hotwire, thanks.

Thanks guys for the input.
 

98hemi-ram

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No problem glad to help.

Chris is awesome to deal with and was very helpful when it came to any questions I had during my swap.
 
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