6.4 Hemi Engine Overhaul

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Ryan102

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Hemi 6.4
6CDAC1A2-FBCC-4669-A013-D4465B7856CF.jpeg CA3E6C45-D9EC-4B5D-AAAA-342B8AF79BFC.jpeg DE66A0F4-E717-45E1-BF24-1F37AECC824B.jpeg 8BE13CAA-C2BA-4C6C-BFFB-1A6A758EF018.jpeg 6CDAC1A2-FBCC-4669-A013-D4465B7856CF.jpeg CA3E6C45-D9EC-4B5D-AAAA-342B8AF79BFC.jpeg DE66A0F4-E717-45E1-BF24-1F37AECC824B.jpeg 8BE13CAA-C2BA-4C6C-BFFB-1A6A758EF018.jpeg It all started with a slight tick...

I purchased my 2014 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi in January of 2015. It’s been pretty reliable minus the first transmission going out at 36K miles (replaced under warranty no issues). And the shift solenoid pack going out at 96K miles (replaced under warranty no issues). I’ve put about 118K miles on my truck in less than 4 years. There was a deployment in there for 6 months where the truck got little action in ‘17 (for 6 months). So about a month ago this little tick that could... Would! It got very distinctive very fast. I knew something had failed. It almost sounded like it was in the exhaust. I checked the notorious exhaust manifold gasket failure and that checked out fine. Pulled the valve cover to reveal the number 8 cylinder exhaust rocker had some excessive play but no wear. Checked the pushrod and the lifter didn’t feel spongy. It felt pretty solid... pulled the intake manifold to check the VVT solenoid for any metal shavings. Nothing. Pulled the head and that exhaust no 8 lifter had seized and been completely wiped. Put a camera down the lifter bore to reveal the camshaft was also wiped. After checking the oil filter there was metal shaving galore in the oil... the motor was toast. So! I tore it down. Sent the block to a machine shop to get cleaned and crank shaft polished. And the rest is history. Here a list of the upgrades and thing replaced in the build. All for about $3500 doing it myself.

MMX MDS delete cam kit:
MDS delete cam
16 hellcat lifters
MDS delete plugs
Hellcat high volume oil pump
Timing chain
Guide
Tensioner
Phazer
Lower timing gear
All gaskets

New:
Main bearings
Rod bearings
ARP main and rod studs
Valves
Valve seals
Push rods
Cam bearings
OBX long tube headers with catless Y pipe
Diablo Trinity 2
Piston rings
Might be more who knows....

Overall, not a bad month long project. So far I have 170 miles on the rebuild. Breaking it in nice and easy. Definitely need a custom tune for sure. But the diablo tuner turned the MDS off with no issues.
 
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j517

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Wow

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WY.Ram

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That all looks badass. Was there any other areas of stress found besides the #8 lifter and cam lobe? Just curious. I have MDS hardware delete next on my list. My "next on my list" is bigger than a lot of things. Ha

I get short term knock on my T2 occasionally also. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what is happening, exhaust pipe bounce/rattle, high ambient/intake air temp, fuel issue, etc. Mine always happens on second start, route back home type of thing but only like 4 times in the last 15k mi, kinda wierd.

Sean will help get yours worked out.

What are your cam specs? Are you happy with the performance that you are feeling initially?

How bout expectations for any gains in mpg or performance?

I know your working the break-in just checking your first impressions.



lr%20ursi_zps0vbocvmj.jpg'16 RAM 2500 pw with a Badass Greene tune feed'n & Fire'n a 6.4L w 6spd
CAI / ARH LTs / Solo / 5.13 AAM / 35" Mickey MTs / DOR / Alfa / Custom Graphics / 4% VLT Tint
 
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Ryan102

Ryan102

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Hemi 6.4
9EC31386-CD71-4840-BD5B-631E9FB450B4.jpeg 6551DC54-6494-4729-874F-851297B7FD97.jpeg A8F8C17A-6BCC-4D67-9968-AF08977CF430.jpeg
That all looks badass. Was there any other areas of stress found besides the #8 lifter and cam lobe? Just curious. I have MDS hardware delete next on my list. My "next on my list" is bigger than a lot of things. Ha

I get short term knock on my T2 occasionally also. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what is happening, exhaust pipe bounce/rattle, high ambient/intake air temp, fuel issue, etc. Mine always happens on second start, route back home type of thing but only like 4 times in the last 15k mi, kinda wierd.

Sean will help get yours worked out.

What are your cam specs? Are you happy with the performance that you are feeling initially?

How bout expectations for any gains in mpg or performance?

I know your working the break-in just checking your first impressions.



lr%20ursi_zps0vbocvmj.jpg'16 RAM 2500 pw with a Badass Greene tune feed'n & Fire'n a 6.4L w 6spd
CAI / ARH LTs / Solo / 5.13 AAM / 35" Mickey MTs / DOR / Alfa / Custom Graphics / 4% VLT Tint


The number 6 intake MDS intake lifter was also jacked up. Not seized like no. 8 but very playful. And the cam lobe was worn. There was some wear on the bearings from metal shavings. That’s why I have the crank polished. And replaced all bearings. I also plastigaged everything to check clearances. I’m not too concerned with power yet as I’m being careful with the break in. The cam specs are factory as I love the way the truck performed already. I’m looking at Hemifever or jay greene for tuning. Still learning the tuning side.
 
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Ryan102

Ryan102

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I also want to add I had been using MOBIL 1/0W-40 synthetic. I would not recommend using Mobil 1 as it does not meet the Chrysler cert and could be a cause of the lost lubrication of my lifters.... my research has left me with Pennzoil and AMSOIL are the only 0-40 that meets it. For now I’m using pennzoil.
 

WY.Ram

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Hey do you have any images of your metal particulate that you found? I'll post some of my shrapnel tomorrow. I too ran mobil1 0w40 for prob 20k mi. I'm now on Red Line 5w40. Prob going to go to the PUP because I'm changing every 5k mi right now and RL is stupid exp for a 5k oci.

I only ask because I found metal chip / shavings in my oil drain pan about 5000 mi ago. I've been listening for any foreign type sounds but I can't really pinpoint anything overly intrusive in the exhaust or other operating sounds. I think I'll pull valve covers tomorrow and do that inspection as well

I'm thinking what seems to be missing from your cam lobe could very well be what I'm finding in my oil. Mine is nowhere near the quantity that is missing from your cam, not yet anyway. I just installed a magnetic drain plug in my crankcase, maybe 1000 mi back. I think tomorrow is the time. I know there's going to be shiny / black flake looking metal about the size of very small pastry crumb (for lack of a better description) stuck to the end. What a downer thought right now, f.

Performance wise she ain't missing a beat. I too love the current performance of my 6.4. and I really wanna keep her running as is. I might step my cam up just a little, and then do all the similar Hellcat replacements as you have.

I've done full engine rebuild before, been awhile, but I'm anxiety ridden as hell thinking about that kind of surgery on my wagon. Do you do that kind of extensive rebuild often? And would you do it again yourself?

One last q, for now anyway, crank machine work only required a journal polish, then you used stock bearing and your clearances were tight, moderate, loose but in spec?

Rokn man thanks. Also no hurry on any reply, at your convenience, and thank you

lr%20ursi_zps0vbocvmj.jpg'16 RAM 2500 pw with a Badass Greene tune feed'n & Fire'n a 6.4L w 6spd
CAI / ARH LTs / Solo / 5.13 AAM / 35" Mickey MTs / DOR / Alfa / Custom Graphics / 4% VLT Tint
 
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Ryan102

Ryan102

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Hemi 6.4
Hey do you have any images of your metal particulate that you found? I'll post some of my shrapnel tomorrow. I too ran mobil1 0w40 for prob 20k mi. I'm now on Red Line 5w40. Prob going to go to the PUP because I'm changing every 5k mi right now and RL is stupid exp for a 5k oci.

I only ask because I found metal chip / shavings in my oil drain pan about 5000 mi ago. I've been listening for any foreign type sounds but I can't really pinpoint anything overly intrusive in the exhaust or other operating sounds. I think I'll pull valve covers tomorrow and do that inspection as well

I'm thinking what seems to be missing from your cam lobe could very well be what I'm finding in my oil. Mine is nowhere near the quantity that is missing from your cam, not yet anyway. I just installed a magnetic drain plug in my crankcase, maybe 1000 mi back. I think tomorrow is the time. I know there's going to be shiny / black flake looking metal about the size of very small pastry crumb (for lack of a better description) stuck to the end. What a downer thought right now, f.

Performance wise she ain't missing a beat. I too love the current performance of my 6.4. and I really wanna keep her running as is. I might step my cam up just a little, and then do all the similar Hellcat replacements as you have.

I've done full engine rebuild before, been awhile, but I'm anxiety ridden as hell thinking about that kind of surgery on my wagon. Do you do that kind of extensive rebuild often? And would you do it again yourself?

One last q, for now anyway, crank machine work only required a journal polish, then you used stock bearing and your clearances were tight, moderate, loose but in spec?

Rokn man thanks. Also no hurry on any reply, at your convenience, and thank you

lr%20ursi_zps0vbocvmj.jpg'16 RAM 2500 pw with a Badass Greene tune feed'n & Fire'n a 6.4L w 6spd
CAI / ARH LTs / Solo / 5.13 AAM / 35" Mickey MTs / DOR / Alfa / Custom Graphics / 4% VLT Tint

I don’t have any pictures of the shavings... best thing I could say is when you drop the filter, dump it in a pan and use the flashlight on your phone. If you have sparkles swirling around then you may have an issue. If Your getting metal shavings on the plug, that’s no Good as well... it’s not like a differential where that is normal. I am a vehicle mechanic for the Air Force. I don’t do these rebuilds everyday, but I would say I’m more than capable... I would do it again too. It was a fun project. The oil pump definitely made a difference in oil pressure. Now for the crank. I had all main and rod journals polished. The main bearings from the factory are stamped A, B, C and D (I think there might be a D but not sure on the top of my head)... mine had a C on no.1 main and B for the rest. The rod bearings are just standard size from factory (your can get oversized bearings aftermarket if needed). The tolerances were dead down the middle in spec. (Perfect) which is good considering the ARP main stud kit I used says that tolerances may change with installation of that kit.
The cam bearings I purchased are actually upgraded as well they had grooves on the mating surface to the block to help with 360* lubrication of the cam... i also got my piston rings from Mahle. I didn’t get any parts from the dealer because they are complete rip-offs! It’s amazing that it’s legal for them to sell parts at the cost that they charge. I will say that when my engine started ticking it was already too late... I was getting the best mileage I’ve ever gotten as well at 18 mpgs. It’s all history now.
 

Fred Shelly

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Ryan102 - Where your valves pooched, or was it just personal choice? I have a '15 PW and I suspect it just ate the cam as well. Problem I have is Im in Canada and there as SFA for parts available here, everything has to come out of the USA, and our Canadian Peso $ is in the toilet. Id like to get away with cam and lifters, but concerned about the bottom end bearings having filings.
 

James OBrien

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Really cool to see this, congrats! How did you do your ring gaps?
 

ripping r

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very nice. I hope i have many miles before i have to do this. I tried find theses OBX long tube headers with catless Y pipe on there sit and could not. and what do you think of them. got a link.
 
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