65rfe 4th gen 6 speed auto xsmn .

[Hemi395]

PML 11079 pan ( deep pan with exhast crossover relief) orderd from MOE'S today. About 2 quarts over stock. I now will have everything i need....besides the time to do it. LOL

Dont tell the wife

Haha been there before.... I'd love to see some pics of the pan inside and out when you get it

 

[U&A]

Haha been there before.... I'd love to see some pics of the pan inside and out when you get it

Ill try. For some reason i have not been able to post a single picture latly. It says they are to big. WAY TO BIG. Dont know whats going on.

 

[jettajam1]

PML 11079 pan ( deep pan with exhast crossover relief) orderd from MOE'S today. About 2 quarts over stock. I now will have everything i need....besides the time to do it. LOL



Dont tell the wife

Haha, I know the feeling. Good luck, shouldn't take you more than a couple hours.....or two full days if you're me[emoji15]


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[U&A]

WOW ! MOE'S performance is fast with shipping it's already shipped in less than 24 hours.

They also had free shipping so I paid $245 out the door for the non-painted (cast finish) version of the pan. I'll just take it to work when I get it and have them paint it for free.

 

[Hemi395]

Yeah I've had nothing but good experiences with Moe's. Matt is a great guy!

 

[U&A]

So just to be clear..

When installing the new deep pan and using the mopar RTV ( or any rtv for that matter, you want it to be 100% cured/dried befor bolting on so your torque specs are correct and you get a tight seal...similar to using an o-ring?

 

[Hemi395]

Actually it's the opposite, you want to get it bolted on before it cures. Also the Mopar RTV in particular sets up QUICK so you have to be ready to bolt it on right after you finish putting the rtv on...

 

[U&A]

Actually it's the opposite, you want to get it bolted on before it cures. Also the Mopar RTV in particular sets up QUICK...

Thank you sir

 

[jettajam1]

Actually it's the opposite, you want to get it bolted on before it cures. Also the Mopar RTV in particular sets up QUICK so you have to be ready to bolt it on right after you finish putting the rtv on...

Yep, That's exactly what I did as well (thanks Hemi for the tip). I applied the RTV and bolted the pan right up and torqued it. I've been under the truck every day and have no leaks. Although I did the OEM pan, which is stamped steel and not cast aluminum.


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[SyN]

I myself after 10-15 min of applying the ATV will attach the pan or differential cover & only snug it down for 20 more min. Then after the 20 min torque down to spec.

Then let it sit for at least 10-12 hours before reintroducing fluid into the unit.
I have never had leaks with this method.

 

[Hemi395]

@jettajam1, here's some pics I took of my crossover pipe while I was changing my oil this morning. Looks like mine is flat on top which is great for clearance but not great for flow. Might have to look into a custom y pipe assembly in the future.

 

[R.L.K.]

Hmm , I guess I just haven't noticed the flat top on my pipe ? Gonna have to take a closer look

 

[jettajam1]

@jettajam1, here's some pics I took of my crossover pipe while I was changing my oil this morning. Looks like mine is flat on top which is great for clearance but not great for flow. Might have to look into a custom y pipe assembly in the future.

Yep, for sure. I was actually counting on the flat section helping me with clearance during my install attempt. I think I measured around 4.5 inches from the top of the Y-pipe flat (I was at a weird angle when I measured, so it could be a bit more), to the bottom of the trans. So I'm almost certain the MH pan will clear when installed.

Also the flat section is perfect for collecting residual fluid and saving it to burn off at a later time[emoji15]. Lesson here is, make sure you thoroughly clean it off prior to running up to temp.


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[U&A]

Because the exhaust is so close to the transmission pan, i've wondered if using that adhesive heat shield (the expensive stuff) on that pan in the little step were the exhaust goes around, would help with dropping temperatures a little bit.

Technically it can't hurt but I wonder how much it would help. It just bothers me a little bit knowing how close it is to the transmission pan makes you wonder how much the exhaust contributes to the temperature.

 

[Hemi395]

Going down the highway it's probably not bad but in stop and go traffic it has heat up the transmission...

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[U&A]

I was thinking the same thing "HEMI". I don't do stop and go traffic hardly at all. Mostly my driving is between 30 and 50 mile an hour back Road "highways" and small town roads. The most red lights I would ever hit on the way to work would maybe 1 Or 2. I should do an average MPH check on my truck. I bet its at or under 30.

 

[jettajam1]

I was thinking the same thing "HEMI". I don't do stop and go traffic hardly at all. Mostly my driving is between 30 and 50 mile an hour back Road "highways" and small town roads. The most red lights I would ever hit on the way to work would maybe 1 Or 2. I should do an average MPH check on my truck. I bet its at or under 30.

I drive stop and go traffic everyday and my trans temp rarely gets above 130 F. Yesterday I did a 135 mile road trip (average speed was 70 MPH) and trans temp did not get above 140 F. So, higher speed equated to about a 10 degree increase.

I don't think heat from the y-pipes has an overall effect on trans temp.....just my opinion, but I'm not a thermal engineer, or transmission specialist either[emoji3]


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[U&A]

I drive stop and go traffic everyday and my trans temp rarely gets above 130 F. Yesterday I did a 135 mile road trip (average speed was 70 MPH) and trans temp did not get above 140 F. So, higher speed equated to about a 10 degree increase.

I don't think heat from the y-pipes has an overall effect on trans temp.....just my opinion, but I'm not a thermal engineer, or transmission specialist either[emoji3]


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I guess the kicker is, heat is ALWAYS being displaced by the exhaust so we really cant say wether or not it is affecting it without changing the situation in some way. Even if we tried an exhaust wrap just in that one spot for a short time to see if there is a difference. It's not somthing to be left on though as it traps moisture in the wrap over time and causes the pipes to rust faster. Just as a test if you know what i mean.

I may get around to it.

 

[R.L.K.]

I guess the kicker is, heat is ALWAYS being displaced by the exhaust so we really cant say wether or not it is affecting it without changing the situation in some way. Even if we tried an exhaust wrap just in that one spot for a short time to see if there is a difference. It's not somthing to be left on though as it traps moisture in the wrap over time and causes the pipes to rust faster. Just as a test if you know what i mean.

I may get around to it.

Better than a wrap would be to mount a thin .030 " or so heat shield , you could leave it installed if you made it durable enogh , kinda like the heat shield at the spare tire locating ...it would be easy to make , just need to figure out how to mount it securely.

 

[U&A]

Better than a wrap would be to mount a thin .030 " or so heat shield , you could leave it installed if you made it durable enogh , kinda like the heat shield at the spare tire locating ...it would be easy to make , just need to figure out how to mount it securely.

You just gave me an excellent idea. I'll get my pan on first then go at it. I could form a piece of aluminum at work that Goes the length of the exhaust I want to cover ( straight portion ) Drill a hole in each end, tig weld hose clamps to some bolts after the bolts are run through the holes in the aluminum, and clamp it to the pipe.