Wow. I just read through this entire thread, and I feel like I've lost a few brain cells.
Just to clarify a few things up here.
1) A 3" kit will clear 35's with the right offset. I have 4th gen 17's on 315/70r17 Nitto Trail Grapplers. I rubbed like crazy on the lower control arms and frame. Spaced it out with 2" wheel spacers, and it clears fine aside from when I flex the truck out, then it rubs the bumper and fenders. For street DD, it runs fine. So, a wheel with 3.5-4" backspace on say a 7-8" wheel it should clear just fine.
2) Majority of spacers on 2nd gen rams are considered "tophats" which bolt into the coil tower. Use of them with lifted coil springs is not considered "dangerous" but what is dangerous is not using the required parts to accommodate the lift. Some higher end 3" lifts include control arms, some don't. If new control arms are not supplied, your stock arms are only considered "fine" because there is usually enough adjustment in the cam bolts to adjust for the lift height. Replacement arms when used will usually require little to no adjustment on the cam bolts. A 5" lift requires control arms, there is not enough adjustment there. 3" control arms even will not have enough adjustment for the additional 2" of lift. So, as example. Skyjacker makes 2" lift coils. Using a 3" tophat and 2" coils will equal 5" of lift, but you cannot just throw the coils in. You'll need the 5" control arms, track bar bracket, and pitman arm. The track bar bracket needs to on the frame side in order to allow the track bar to match the angle of the drag link with the pitman arm, otherwise bump steer will become a massive issue. A track bar bracket on the axle side is used when doing a high steer kit, requiring the stock pitman arm. Not using the drop pitman arm and track bar bracket on 5" of lift will result in an extremely unstable truck. Turning will become harder as you'll have to pull harder to turn the wheel, and straight lines will be just short of impossible. You will be all over the road.
3) "Lifting a few vehicles in the past" does not make you an expert in the field of lifting every type of vehicle. There's a difference in everything. Jeeps and 2nd gen rams use the same style of suspension in the front, which consists of a 4 link. But the driving characteristics are different. A ram will handle a 3" lift with ease, while Jeeps begin to require additional parts to actually drive correctly.
4) Rear blocks are always frowned upon. Going with a taller block will increase chances of axle wrap (requiring traction bars). Axle wrap can cause a lot of issues, ranging from added stress and snapping u-bolts to loosening nuts. Off road with taller blocks and bouncing around on bumpy roads can do the same. Stacked blocks I think should be illegal, just like adding a block to the front of leaf sprung truck is.
And, word of advice: Being fairly new to the forum (just as I am), asking for advice and then criticizing the advice given, and resorting to name calling and personal insults isn't the best first impression. You're about the same age I am from what I can see, insulting the knowledge of those older and have had personal first hand experience with these trucks is pretty damn stupid. I'm 25, I've owned 3 2nd gens, and browsing these forums on a daily basis I still learn stuff to this day that I never knew before.
As for my first hand experience, I work in a 4x4 shop where we build and lift jeeps and trucks on a daily basis. It's easy to apply the same knowledge from one lift to another, but it doesn't always work, because of what I stated above: every vehicle is different. The concept and ideas may be the same, but different vehicles require different attention. Much like women.
Again
