8HP70 fluid change

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Jwithing

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Can anyone with JBA longtube headers and Y pipe please tell me how the hell you got the fill plug out without dropping the exhaust. I've been at it for awhile, in the rain now, after spending oodles of time finally leveling the truck.

I've tried pivot joints and low profile sockets. Still not enough clearance to get anything in there. At this point, I'm willing to take it to a tranny shop, give them my fluid and doorman pan, but I don't really trust anyone to do it correctly. I'm so frustrated that I'm considering taking it to the dealer and taking the @$$ reaming. Getting the exhaust situated correctly was one hell of a nightmare, so I'm not willing to touch it.
 

Wild one

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Can anyone with JBA longtube headers and Y pipe please tell me how the hell you got the fill plug out without dropping the exhaust. I've been at it for awhile, in the rain now, after spending oodles of time finally leveling the truck.

I've tried pivot joints and low profile sockets. Still not enough clearance to get anything in there. At this point, I'm willing to take it to a tranny shop, give them my fluid and doorman pan, but I don't really trust anyone to do it correctly. I'm so frustrated that I'm considering taking it to the dealer and taking the @$$ reaming. Getting the exhaust situated correctly was one hell of a nightmare, so I'm not willing to touch it.
I've never had any issues getting at my fill plug,with my JBA long tubes. Have you tried an Allen key,you might need to cut it down,then if the plug is to tight to remove with just the allen key,throw a box end wrench or piece of pipe on the allen key to use as a snipe.
 

EdGs

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A regular 8mm allen key went ok on my fill plug, but I did have to use a length of pipe on it to break it loose.

My truck is stock, so your clearances are probably different.

I think Hercules put mine on, because that sucker was tight.

I did have to use a cut-down 10mm on the pan drain plug, since the crossover pipe is right below it, but that was easy to loosen.

I used some brake cleaner on a rag to clean up the fluid that ran on the crossover pipe.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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I've never had any issues getting at my fill plug,with my JBA long tubes. Have you tried an Allen key,you might need to cut it down,then if the plug is to tight to remove with just the allen key,throw a box end wrench or piece of pipe on the allen key to use as a snipe.
Cut down Allen key was my first thought but didn't have access to an angle grinder or anything else to cut it down. Back home now, so I'll have to cut one down and venture back out to levelish ground to try again.

I'm running catless, so I have no idea if that makes a difference.
 

Wild one

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Cut down Allen key was my first thought but didn't have access to an angle grinder or anything else to cut it down. Back home now, so I'll have to cut one down and venture back out to levelish ground to try again.

I'm running catless, so I have no idea if that makes a difference.
Shouldn't,my cats fell off when i put the long tubes on,and that was several years ago,lol.
 

PoMansRam

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Why bother with the pan drain plug if you can't get at it easily? I know the cross pipe on my 2019 classic hemi is right below the drain plug on my 8HP70. Not a lot of clearance.

Just drop the pan. It'll only be slightly more messy anyway.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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Why bother with the pan drain plug if you can't get at it easily? I know the cross pipe on my 2019 classic hemi is right below the drain plug on my 8HP70. Not a lot of clearance.

Just drop the pan. It'll only be slightly more messy anyway.
The fill plug is my issue... wish it was the drain plug giving me problems. Another great example of why it's important to remove the fill plug before you drain to make sure you can get fluids back in.

Where the cross pipe curves back up on the passenger side blocks me from even getting an Allen wrench in there.
 

EdGs

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The fill plug is my issue... wish it was the drain plug giving me problems. Another great example of why it's important to remove the fill plug before you drain to make sure you can get fluids back in.

Where the cross pipe curves back up on the passenger side blocks me from even getting an Allen wrench in there.
I can't imagine that pipe being that close, but I just have a stock 2wd, so your exhaust setup must be larger and closer.

I had no issue getting the short side of a standard l-key in mine.

Please, post a pic of your problem area if you can.

You might have to use just a 1 inch length (or maybe a little less) of allen key to get in there with a 6 point box wrench and cheater on it.

Sorry you are having trouble. Hang in there.
 
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PoMansRam

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The fill plug is my issue... wish it was the drain plug giving me problems. Another great example of why it's important to remove the fill plug before you drain to make sure you can get fluids back in.

Where the cross pipe curves back up on the passenger side blocks me from even getting an Allen wrench in there.

I totally missed that!

That would suck to have to get exhaust out of the way.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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I can't imagine that pipe being that close, but I just have a stock 2wd, so your exhaust setup must be larger and closer.

I had no issue getting the short side of a standard l-key in mine.

Please, post a pic of your problem area if you can.

You might have to use just a 1 inch length (or maybe a little less) of allen key to get in there with a 6 point box wrench and cheater on it.

Sorry you are having trouble. Hang in there.
It is pretty tight, about two finger widths or so. I can almost get an Allen wrench in there, but not quite. I'm thinking I'll be good with a cut down Allen and a cheater. I'll check that this week so I can try it again this weekend. I'll post a pic of the clearance as well, when I go to attempt the fill plug again
 

EdGs

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The only other issue you might have will be getting the plug started back in without burning your fingers on the exhaust. Make sure you have some wet towels or something to help with that.

I used a piece of nomex felt on mine. Worked like a champ until about 30 seconds from being finished when I removed it, and then proceeded to touch the exhaust with the back of my hand.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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The only other issue you might have will be getting the plug started back in without burning your fingers on the exhaust. Make sure you have some wet towels or something to help with that.

I used a piece of nomex felt on mine. Worked like a champ until about 30 seconds from being finished when I removed it, and then proceeded to touch the exhaust with the back of my hand.
Yeah, that was actually my primary concern before realizing I didn't even have enough clearance. Going to have to figure something out.
 

Dan Topp

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12 k used a OE pan the magnets and filter looked good but I wanted it over before redynotuning it after i get them to do the trans tune that screwed up the Procharger tune somewhat.It looks dry.E3EFDD40-F4B3-4B21-A4C2-A12FBDD43BE1.jpegimage.jpg
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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As promised, here's a picture of the amount of clearance I have, shown with a 1/4 in. Ratchet head in between. I did get the fill plug broke lose by using the jack bar as a breaker bar and a cut down 8mm allen wrench. I should be good to go now. The trick will be no burns. I'll probably start later this afternoon after it cools a bit or wait until tomorrow.
 

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EdGs

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Glad to hear you got it broken loose.

It will be better if you start with it completely cold. You will need every bit of time to run through the fill procedure before it hits 122° F. Especially if doing all by yourself. I had my Wife helping me by going through the shift process, and I still ran tight on getting it done.
 
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Jwithing

Jwithing

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Glad to hear you got it broken loose.

It will be better if you start with it completely cold. You will need every bit of time to run through the fill procedure before it hits 122° F. Especially if doing all by yourself. I had my Wife helping me by going through the shift process, and I still ran tight on getting it done.
I ended up waiting until tomorrow. Luckily I do have another hand to run through the gears.
 
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Jwithing

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All done with the fluid swap and no burns. It took 3 quarts before startup and a total of 5.75 quarts with the dorman pan. Probably lost half a quart or so at the end when it started spewing out. I plugged it back up a little before it was a slow dribble because I wasn't able to get completely even left to right, but was even front to back.

Fluid was brown and definitely needed to be changed. 93k miles and no towing, but I do have 37's and a tyranny tune. I'll probably do another fluid swap in the not so distant future since it was not a full flush. The magnets were coated with metal and there was a decent amount in the pan as well.
 
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