AC not sure what issue is

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rick_ca

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2018 5.7 hemi 4x4 crew cab st, on startup AC blows cold but about 1hour into a 3 hr trip it started blowing warm. Pulled into Local Canadian Tire grabbed a can of 1234 refill with a gauge to add gas, here where it gets the big HMMMMMM gauge showed dead smack in middle of a good charge so I did not add any. As i was running late I left it as is and carried on Cold air from vents again, ran about an hour and starts warming up again pulled over shut off engine for 10 minutes fired up cold air again. Has anyone else ran into this did a quick search everything pointing to blend door but want to be sure before tackling it.
 

crash68

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are you getting a lot of condensate coming out when the truck is off? When was the last time the cabin air filter was changed?
 

GeoffG68

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2018 5.7 hemi 4x4 crew cab st, on startup AC blows cold but about 1hour into a 3 hr trip it started blowing warm. ... As i was running late I left it as is and carried on Cold air from vents again, ran about an hour and starts warming up again pulled over shut off engine for 10 minutes fired up cold air again. Has anyone else ran into this did a quick search everything pointing to blend door but want to be sure before tackling it.
Your evaporator is freezing into a solid block of ice, and no air can flow through it. The suction line under the hood may also be encased in ice. This will tend to happen in high humidity situations. The wait allows the evaporator to thaw out; I can even hear ice hitting the inside of the HVAC box when mine freezes up.

The problem is likely reduced airflow through the evaporator. If you have a cabin air filter, it may be clogged. If you don't, the evaporator itself may be clogged. There are a couple of strategies to deal with this. Obviously, check and replace the cabin air filter if you have one, this is a cheap and easy fix. If you don't, you can clean the evaporator -- there are YouTube videos on how to do this on a Ram -- or you can do something simpler: in high humidity, don't run max A/C for long periods of time. This is easier to do in a Ram without automatic temperature control. Switching to no A/C and blowing fresh air from the outside through the system will also thaw it out.

The high humidity combined with reduced airflow is your problem, DAMHIK.
 
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rick_ca

rick_ca

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Your evaporator is freezing into a solid block of ice, and no air can flow through it. The suction line under the hood may also be encased in ice. This will tend to happen in high humidity situations. The wait allows the evaporator to thaw out; I can even hear ice hitting the inside of the HVAC box when mine freezes up.

The problem is likely reduced airflow through the evaporator. If you have a cabin air filter, it may be clogged. If you don't, the evaporator itself may be clogged. There are a couple of strategies to deal with this. Obviously, check and replace the cabin air filter if you have one, this is a cheap and easy fix. If you don't, you can clean the evaporator -- there are YouTube videos on how to do this on a Ram -- or you can do something simpler: in high humidity, don't run max A/C for long periods of time. This is easier to do in a Ram without automatic temperature control. Switching to no A/C and blowing fresh air from the outside through the system will also thaw it out.

The high humidity combined with reduced airflow is your problem, DAMHIK.
I will try this as I have a road trip coming up of 5hours one way
 
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rick_ca

rick_ca

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the more I think on this I'm leaning towards evaporator as I used to have a steady stream of of water ( condensate) when in park but do not recall seeing this on last trip, will check more this week thanks to all for advise will let you know what I find Cheers
 
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rick_ca

rick_ca

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had a few mins spare took picture of filter (grabbing a new one) and the refill canister little above the blue mark today and into yellow warning area, also after running truck on driveway 15mins steady stream of condensate under truck so drain not plugged.
 

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1 MEAN66

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Yes, in can be a condenser with debris on the facing forward side, system cannot get rid of the heat that was collected from the interior. Builds up a higher pressure (read temperature) and the high-pressure switch cuts out a working clutch. But I also HAD 1 in all the years I worked on cars, the moisture from the interior collects on the evaporator, due to the Drip hole plugged, and ice forms on the evaporator so blower motor air will not flow through the evap's radiator type core. It just blows the warm interior air back into the cabin. Most of this type of problem though is found by a puddle on the floor of the cab, ice melts when vehicle parks. Does it have a cabin air filter?? this could be plugged (no air flow) or yours did not come with one (you can add it yourself)- I did on mine. But this usually cause a system that only gets cool not cold. If you are not sure of how a A/C system works, lots of bits of info to read to help you understand the system. Here is a very short explanation that may/may not confuse you. In a classroom much easier to explain. 1) most things are three things when heat is applied: solid, liquid, and gas (ice to water to steam). those 3 states happen to everything at different temps. The freon used in A/C is chosen as it never freezes (solid) in a auto. Everything on this planet like to be warm (the way I explain it - may be technically wrong - think black bear vs polar bear. In an A/C system it's pressure (why gauges are used to test it) low pressure it is acold liquid to high pressure a hot gas. Ready?? here goes -again trying to make a short explanation of a complicated system- In the dashboard (EVAP) it's a cold liquid (low pressure 25-32 psi) Caused by a restriction inside the tubing (orifice tube) which is between under hood area and dash. It wants to be warmer than it is, so it accepts the interiors heat. As an ice cube as it gets warm goes from liquid to a gas/liquid, passes through a few items to become all gas, because (liquid cannot be compressed!) the gas goes into the compressor and is squeezed High pressure on the gauges. Now it is at 400PSI, 300-400 degrees. Now the outside air maybe 100+ degrees BUT that air is cooler than the 400-degree freon inside the system. So, the air going thru the condenser, accept that heat. and round and round it goes. That might help give you the general jist? So, anything anywhere that "blocks" freon or air flow will screw it up, not enough freon in a system, it turns to a gas before it can accept all the heat from an interior. I used to teach also, but hard to do it here.
 
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rick_ca

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Hi All I've purchased an endoscope camera of Amazon, going to take blower motor off to examine one side not sure where to drill a hole for other side. if someone could point me in right location and what I see I will post, also booked up a basic refrigeration class so I can learn a bit more thanks
 

1 MEAN66

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I think ya might go to harbor freight and get a set of pressure gauges to finish a diagnosis. This will help point you at least in a direction. Low side, or high side? Pressure too high or too low. If the high side is too high is the fan running, if it is, then is the air flow blocked at the condenser, Does the clutch engage? If the pressure is "normal" (even with the vehicle OFF) there should be pressure - approx. air temp. etc.etc.,,,, Finish diagnosing!!!!
 

Tominator223

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It may be freezing up as Geoffg68 said. However they usually freeze when a lil low on Freon . Had a 80 el Camino that blew ice chips. Never froze up though. When my buddies and I did a/c (automotive) we always tried to get the low side gauge to about 34-36. And they always had cold air no matter mnfgr
 

Grmarti

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You need to know the high side pressure to ensure the oriface tube is not plugging, making the low side pressure appear within range.

One quick way to tell if your oriface or condenser is not performing as designed is feel the discharge tubing (extremely hot) higher then normal temps are present, condenser needs cleaning or orfice is restricted hold back pressure on the condenser.

Refrigerant temperature and pressures are directly related
 
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rick_ca

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Update: I did a 9hour road trip this weekend 1st part of journey I could not tell much difference as outside air was 13 to 15 degree C, on way back it was up around 24 to 26 Degree C so was able to test. When air started blowing 1st thing it was cool as trip went on it started getting warmer and air seemed to go to half volume (air out of vents), turned AC light off still warm air but after 5mins air flow went full force from vents and I turned AC back on nice cold air again. this happened 4 times on way Home air flow slowed down air got warmer till AC turn off for 5 mins then air went full flow and AC on cooled down. I had Vents on body area and fan 3/4 on and hot/cold all the way down but did not have max AC on.
 

GeoffG68

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Update: I did a 9hour road trip this weekend 1st part of journey I could not tell much difference as outside air was 13 to 15 degree C, on way back it was up around 24 to 26 Degree C so was able to test. When air started blowing 1st thing it was cool as trip went on it started getting warmer and air seemed to go to half volume (air out of vents), turned AC light off still warm air but after 5mins air flow went full force from vents and I turned AC back on nice cold air again. this happened 4 times on way Home air flow slowed down air got warmer till AC turn off for 5 mins then air went full flow and AC on cooled down. I had Vents on body area and fan 3/4 on and hot/cold all the way down but did not have max AC on.
You've confirmed the evaporator is freezing up. Did you have any luck with the borescope?
 
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rick_ca

rick_ca

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You've confirmed the evaporator is freezing up. Did you have any luck with the borescope?
Sorry not at moment life and work put halt to investigate any further hope to pull blower motor next week and look at that side 1st, than figure a safe spot to drill/cut for other side but will report on findings.
 
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