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Yeah, that's galactically stupid for FCA or anyone NOT to valve off the heater core on MAX A/C. My 2004 Ford Ranger does, but my other 2 do not. The Ranger gets colder faster. Gee! I wonder why! Who needs a heater when the heat index is 116 degrees?
I know the early model years of the Gen4 trucks with the 8spd have a 3-way valve to redirect coolant between the heater core and trans TMU. I'm not sure of all of the functionality but it did redirect the coolant to the TMU when cabin heat was not required.
Besides throwing ice cubes all over the cab.
Issue a bag of dry ice and a personal fan!
Issue a bag of dry ice and a personal fan!
My AC, with the TSB done, where they added sensors, worked on evaporator, and such, got my temps down to 48 ish, as long as under 95 F degrees out may hit 46. If I clamp off the inlet line from the water pump to the core, I get down to 40-41 degrees, and that is even sitting still, not pushing air. But I have not clamped off the line this year. I do have a valve and all the parts necessary to put in a manual valve, I am just lucky not drive much. But temps been sometimes at 110 F and more, which is at least 15 degrees above normal, just miserable.
Kinda sounds like my Home AC. In morning and late late afternoon out of the sun, be OK. Late morning till late late in afternoon, my Home temp output goes from 51/52 to 58 ish, and that system is working hard. But we have had so many fires here and dust and such, I quite literally rinse out the AC coils every 2 weeks, and that also drops temps till coils dry out. Sherman: U in Houston, is your RAM Black in color, hee hee, as U see I got Flame Coat Red. I also keep a heat shield in the front windshield which helps immensely at startup. Not burn my hands on the steering wheel.
See my post #50. Also, PW Chief, you could check the TSB and see if your vehicle falls under it and decide if U want it done or not. I will post here the Original TSB number which I had my work done and also understand there was a modified TSB number. But beware, if they do the TSB, they Pull Out Everything: Dash, Vents, Blower Motor assembly, etc.
My Ram is green.
OK, lmao, could not help myself, since U be in Houston, and I be in the center of the state, lol.
Continually letting a leaky A/C refrigerant system go low, the oil WILL migrate to the evaporator, starve the compressor, thus allowing debris to circulate into the system, thus exacerbating the problem to the point that a complete system replacement is necessary. MOST folks do it until the A/C, among other problems, motivate them to get rid of their vehicle(s).
Thread Hijack
Thread Hijackj
Every spring I have to get a can of freon and top off system,slow leak somewhere! Couldn't find it,even with a smoke test,good to go till next year,
This year...lil different...when I attached can to "refill port",it just sprayed out.(clutch was spinning jus fine).Over the years Ive had numerous vacuum issues so I figured freon was full,another vacuum leak,,,aaaargh! (Check valves,1 or 2 years old)
With the system spitting like that and the clutch engaging...most probably another vacuum leak,,,yes?
Ironically...too hot to work on it !!!
Adios Amigos
It's less a "hack" than doing what should have been done in the first place. The manufacturers are SO greedy, that they will leave out an item such as a heater core flow valve due to it's costs. One one truck, it is miniscule; multiply that by, say, a million trucks, and you get the point.
Way back when, previous wife, had a 67 Dart with the slant 6. It was always easy to just slide the temp gauge from hot to cold, and see the wire move the HCV and block off the core from the radiator. Such a simple thing, and Dodge had to have some idjut reinvent the wheel, do the blend BS and now we have all these systems working against themselves and working poorly, IMHO... Not surprising AC works poor since motor dumping 200 +++ degree coolant through the HVAC box while trying to cool, Not take a Rocket Scientist. All IMHO.
Especially since the thermal dynamic law of entropy states that temperature flows from hot to cold ALWAYS. In addition, our brains tell us that an A/C unit "puts out cold air" when, in fact, the evaporator core is absorbing heat into itself and thence to the low pressure gas (refrigerant), which, literally is boiling and evaporating and in a state of heat absorption transfer. From there, the heated gas is pumped into the compressor and pressurized up and sent a compressed hot gas to the "condenser"... which literally cools off the hot gas, thus putting the heat into the atmosphere, and turns it back into hot, high pressure liquid. Said liquid goes to an orifice, where, a new law comes into play.... Pascal's law. This is where the hot, high pressure liquid is lowered in pressure, and allowed to go back into the evaporator core to boil and evaporate. (At sea level, refrigerant boils and evaporates at -21 degrees F. Remember, for every pound you pressurize a liquid, you raise it's boiling point 3 degrees F. That's why A/C units have 30-40 PSI... because it is under pressure.
If you have no access to a hose, I've also found that leaving my window cracked about 1/2" for the first 5 - 10 minutes with the A/C on high (not recric) allows the system to push the warm/hot air out faster and replace it with cold air. Then roll the window up.
