Any 1500s upgrade from ~4500 lb travel trailer to 5500 lb or 6500 lb?

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AustinAggie

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I drive a 2016 1500 Hemi CC SB with 3.92 rear axle (10,300 max tow rating). I currently tow a 4500 lb Jayco travel trailer (26.5' box, almost 30' total - one of the common bunkhouse models with no slideouts). I use a Reese WDH with anti-sway bars.. all without much trouble. It's noticeable that I'm towing, but no issues.

I'm considering upgrading to a bigger TT but am having a hard time figuring out how big is too big. I don't tow a lot.. started a few years ago with a pop-up (which was barely noticeable, even on my older 2004 Titan.) Moved to the TT a couple of years ago, and am comfortable towing even for longer trips. I don't want to be white knuckling the whole trip... but the advice on here is all over the place.

I know the truck can tow 5500 lbs (32' or so) or 6500 lbs (34' or so).. but do I want to? I know there are estimates I can do to look at GVW, etc.. but most of the advice is to take your setup the scales.. which I can't do with something I don't own.

How many of you out there made the jump from 4500 or so to 5500? or 6500? How noticeable was it? Any issues? Any upgrades you'd recommend to the truck? (tires? rear air shocks?) Any other advice?

Thanks in advance!
 

BlkZrx

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I use 80% rule. I try not to go over 80% gvwr tow rating. Gives you some wiggle room if things get dicey, ie; panic stops, emergency maneuvers, bad juju stuff. Longer TT adds more wind load on side winds, exaggerated tail movement and a pain in the ass in tight places.

If you want bigger, consider wider rather then much longer. Slideouts really open up living space, even though they add some weight. I love the 3 slides on mine..

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yillbs

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I use 80% rule. I try not to go over 80% gvwr tow rating. Gives you some wiggle room if things get dicey, ie; panic stops, emergency maneuvers, bad juju stuff. Longer TT adds more wind load on side winds, exaggerated tail movement and a pain in the ass in tight places.

If you want bigger, consider wider rather then much longer. Slideouts really open up living space, even though they add some weight. I love the 3 slides on mine..

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This is probably the best advice. I'd keep it under 7500 pounds wet if i were you.
 
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AustinAggie

AustinAggie

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I use 80% rule. I try not to go over 80% gvwr tow rating. Gives you some wiggle room if things get dicey, ie; panic stops, emergency maneuvers, bad juju stuff. Longer TT adds more wind load on side winds, exaggerated tail movement and a pain in the ass in tight places.

If you want bigger, consider wider rather then much longer. Slideouts really open up living space, even though they add some weight. I love the 3 slides on mine..

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80% much appreciated, and 7500 is a good number to work off of.

I'm looking for something with a queen master, bunks for the kids, and at least one slide.. I can find lots of options with a slideout (or super slideout) in a 28 or 29' total length.. but I haven't seen many at that length that have multiple slideouts (although admittedly I'm just searching used right now). What would you recommend? It seems like you have to get up to 32' or 34' to find multiple slideouts.
 

BlkZrx

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I've got a 34' box, but towing with a 3/4 ton.
About 9k loaded at most. Good idea on used. Let somebody else take the huge hit on buying new and getting the bugs worked out. Sometimes I miss my 24' camper. Could put it anywhere..

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BlkZrx

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I've had only Forest River TT's. There isn't much difference from one brand to the next. It's all about the floor plan your significant other likes.

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NewBlackDak

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32-34’ trailer is a big trailer for a half ton to handle no matter the weight. All that side surface area is hard to control.


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69GWC

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I have a 28' Jayco BH.

It sounds like what you are looking for and is not to long and meets your weight you are after.
Front queen master with a couch slide out and bunk beds, might be one for you to look at.

20170721_094843.jpg

20180406_163735.jpg
 
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AustinAggie

AustinAggie

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32-34’ trailer is a big trailer for a half ton to handle no matter the weight. All that side surface area is hard to control.

Are you referring to box size or total length?

My current TT is 26.5' box, just over 29 ft total.

I am considering purchasing a 6450 lb trailer worth one slide that is 34.4'.. box is I think 30.5'.
 
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AustinAggie

AustinAggie

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But... That may be too big. As 69GWC noted, there are plenty of models that are similar to my current bunkhouse just with a slide out for a larger living area.
 

VernDiesel

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White knuckle is completely avoidable with weight distribution between TV, TT, & WDH. As long as you can at minimum replace your unloaded steer weight, not exceed your axle maximums, and keep your TW between 10 & 15 percent of your TTs weight. Just adjust by Cat scale results. Use a WDH with built in sway control and properly sized for your TW spring bars.

Staying with a 28’ floor plan or less and or a 7,500 pound or less wet weight pretty much assures the ability to accomplish that.

A Hensley or Pro Prop is better but a lot of money and not required.

When you have it adjusted so that your steer, drive, & TW are within Mfg specs wind stability, emergency maneuvers, and full truck stopping ability will be available for a safe enjoyable tow.

If the yellow sticker keystone kops of payload come to estimate your load to tell you to buy a bigger truck just show them your weight slip and tell them a 16 yo girl could drive it.


Here is a good example from the other day. http://www.ramforum.com/threads/went-to-the-cat-scale-today.120031/
 

Riccochet

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I tow a '27 v-nose travel trailer, 2 slides, about 8300# loaded. It's about the absolute max I'd tow with a 1/2 ton. I do use a ProPride 3P WDH and it made a world of difference over the Anderson, Husky and Equalizer WDH's I tried before it. Night and day difference.

ProPride and Hensley are expensive. But if you tow anywhere windy or are pushing a 1/2 ton to it's limits they're worth every penny.
 

busterbrown

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I tow a '27 v-nose travel trailer, 2 slides, about 8300# loaded. It's about the absolute max I'd tow with a 1/2 ton. I do use a ProPride 3P WDH and it made a world of difference over the Anderson, Husky and Equalizer WDH's I tried before it. Night and day difference.

ProPride and Hensley are expensive. But if you tow anywhere windy or are pushing a 1/2 ton to it's limits they're worth every penny.

Yep, you've nailed it. I upgraded up from a 1/2 ton GMC Yukon XL Denali to my 3/4 ton Megacab and I still use my Hensley on each and every trip. No other hitch compares to a Propride or Hensley. It truly is 5th wheel mechanics on a travel travel. Worth every cent.
 
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AustinAggie

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Thanks all. As a relative newbie, the advice is much appreciated. I think I've got enough info to move ahead now.
 

VernDiesel

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I towed a 7500 pound wet 30’ floorplan Airstream Classic with a Pro Prop southern Alabama to Ohio & later back with two different trucks. On the scales & towing.. excellent. Swapping & setting up hitch a time consuming PIA. And well the price of four hitches. A good WDH with built in sway control & properly sized spring bars. (To TW) will do 98 percent of the same job. But if you have the coin to spare and don’t trade trucks or trailers often, and especially if you have a 1/2 ton 30 plus floorplan heavy TT the Hensley or PPP is the bomb.
 

busterbrown

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On the scales & towing.. excellent. Swapping & setting up hitch a time consuming PIA. And well the price of four hitches. A good WDH with built in sway control & properly sized spring bars. (To TW) will do 98 percent of the same job.
I'd have to disagree. I find my Hensley extremely easy and quick to hitch and un-hitch from the trailer. In fact, it takes me about the same amount of time (and same degree of difficulty) to hitch up with a Blue Ox Sway Pro that I started out with. About 2 minutes. Maybe it's because of the version of the HA that I have, the Swift. It uses a chain to latch the spring arms to the frame brackets vs a rotory jack. Just lift your tongue jack up high and latch the chains to each bracket. That's it, done.

And it's night and day from a traditional friction hitch to a strut and cam design hitch, especially with longer trailers. Trailers at over 28 feet in length benefit much greater than those that are shorter. That's just a fact. A longer sail requires more effective sway control...or with the Hensley's and Propride's, sway 'elimination'.
 

VernDiesel

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Buster I think you misunderstand me. No problem with the same truck and same trailer on flat level surface. Change trucks or trailers or hook up on uneven sloped ground not so much. Also not comparing it to old add on friction bar WDH. I’ve done several different 33’ floorplan TTs a 34 & a 35’ floorplan for short flat land transport. (with pics on this forum) Mostly with a relative to Hensley or PPP inexpensive Andersen with built in sway control. It handled all the 33s quite well over 1,000s of miles mountains curves wind semi but I also set the weight distribution (best I could) for good steer & drive axle weights and proper tongue weight.

In many respects they are a superior hitch but even cost aside won’t be the choice for most scenarios.
 

Farmer Fran

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32-34’ trailer is a big trailer for a half ton to handle no matter the weight. All that side surface area is hard to control.


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Really? Please, do tell?
 

NewBlackDak

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Really? Please, do tell?

I have a trailer in that range. I towed it with QCLB Titan for one season, and got thrown all over the place. I tried my dad’s Super Cab F150, and got thrown all over the place. I tried it with a neighbors QC Sierra, and got thrown all over the place.

Any amount of side wind moved the whole rig. Any large rig passing sucked me in or moved me over.

Behind a 2500 all that went away.

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