ARH Longtubes arrived!

[TylerB]

That looks amazing!

 

[UNBROKEN]

Never use a torque spec on anything other than a clean dry bolt / fastener!
You put something like anti-seize on a thread and the torque specs are moot.

Close...torque specs are just less on an oiled bolt vs dry.
I guarantee you every engine builder on the planet, myself included, torques lubed fasteners during assemble. Most fastener companies supply their own lube.

 

[Hemi450hp]

The coating looks great. Those are going to look very nice under the hood.

 

[Etroze86]

They did a great job on those headers. Now you'll have to make the rest of the engine bay to match that bling.

On the note of over torquing with lubed fasteners if I remember right don't most reputable fastener manufactures supply wet torque specs also. Its been a few years since I built a motor but I wanna say the APR had them.

 

[WhiteExpress]

Close...torque specs are just less on an oiled bolt vs dry.
I guarantee you every engine builder on the planet, myself included, torques lubed fasteners during assemble. Most fastener companies supply their own lube.

Touche. Found this nice little site:
BOLTS AND TORQUE SPECS

 

[ShortBed]

Wow those look incredible. I never even thought about getting them coated. what was the cost to have them done if you don't mind me asking?

 

[cux211]

Close...torque specs are just less on an oiled bolt vs dry.
I guarantee you every engine builder on the planet, myself included, torques lubed fasteners during assemble. Most fastener companies supply their own lube.

thank you I was gona throw a comment in there about arp's torque lube

 

[TXCMark]

That header looks amazing.....
How quick is the turn around for getting them coated?

They turned them around in 3 days. shipping was 3days each way, so had them back in 9.

 

[TXCMark]

Wow those look incredible. I never even thought about getting them coated. what was the cost to have them done if you don't mind me asking?

np, it was 150 each

 

[fastNugly]

They turned them around in 3 days. shipping was 3days each way, so had them back in 9.

np, it was 150 each

Pretty damn good if you ask me.
Glad they are squaring up with the other one that got damaged during shipment.

 

[ShortBed]

I just checked out Jet-hot's web site and I'm pretty sure I just soiled myself. Endless possibilities. Thanks for the information!

 

[HEMI-PWRD]

Wow, those headers look great and actually think that ARH should sell them coated just like that from the beginning.

Well anyways, I want a set so bad but have been having trouble with my transmission burning the overdrive clutches. I had MGH (L&M Customs) rebuild it and send it back to me. I should not have any problems anymore.. Maybe I will get me a set for X-mas if all goes well with transmission.

 

[fastNugly]

Wow, those headers look great and actually think that ARH should sell them coated just like that from the beginning.

Well anyways, I want a set so bad but have been having trouble with my transmission burning the overdrive clutches. I had MGH (L&M Customs) rebuild it and send it back to me. I should not have any problems anymore.. Maybe I will get me a set for X-mas if all goes well with transmission.

HEMI-PWRD, just read you sig. Pretty impressive mods. Im sure your truck goes

 

[TXCMark]

jealous of you 3hr longtube installers

Finally got into the longtube install this afternoon , thought I'd share some pics. Everything went smooth except getting the factory Y-p ipe to slip out of the single pipe to the m uffler. Tried everything to knock it out, even put a torch to it to get some expansion, but ended up hacking it with a s awsall. Didnt realize I'd be hacking more of the tube off later anyway.

took me 10-12 hrs to complete the install

before - driver

after

before - passenger

after

Tips from install on my 2012 1500 5.7L SLT Crew Cab 2wd:

After you pull the wheel well shrouds everything is right in front of you. The OEM stuff comes out easy. Most of the bolts are 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm. An array of extensions, swivels, and both deep and shallow sockets will make it a breeze - I used a 1/4" drive the most. I still dont know what size the exhaust sensors are, they're bigger than 18mm. I used a crescent but wished I had the right wrench because of tight spaces.

Exhaust (2012 crew cab) - Get a pair of the u-bolt style exhaust clamps 3" ($4 ea at autozone) for the pipe connections after the Y. ARH doesnt provide them. When removing the exhaust, cut after the factory Y with a sawzall in front of the OEM u-bolt connection instead of fighting to get them apart; no need to undo the u-bolt if you got new ones. Later, after mounting the headers and ARH mids/Y pipe, you will have to cut off a foot or so of the OEM main pipe (Y to Muffler) 3 to 4" in front of the forward hanger to accept the ARH Y pipe. Measure twice, cut once, cut straight . Be sure to install the exhaust sensor on the Y before pairing it up to the single pipe to the m uffler; not enough clearance to do it after.

Oil dip stic k tube - (playing with this thing took the most time for me) Before mounting the headers, unbolt the oil d ip stick tube bracket at the engine b lock, the tube pulls straight up and out. I ended up cutting this little bracket off with a dremel to get it back in between the 3rd and 4th tubes; cut it, if you bend it off it will leave holes in the tube. the tube takes some finessing to fit it back after the header install. You shouldnt have to bend it much, when you do bend it make sure the pressure is not on the portion that is inserted into the engine block; x2 the tube doesnt require much bending at all. I wouldnt recommend bending it in place; insert it into the engine block, position it centered between #3 and #4 tubes (not rubbing the tubes), mark where you need to bend, pull it, and bend it on something round; I used the 1ft drop from the OEM exhaust tube. After that bend you may need to bend the upper section away from the steering shaft to keep it off the boot, and up to make it easily accessible from the engine bay. I bent and clamped the long bracket on the tube to the A/C compresso r tube clamp instead of mounting it back to the header bolt.

Gaskets - The OEM Header Gaskets ($10 ea) are worth it instead of the ARHs. Use a dremel to port match them to the headers. When mounting the headers, all bolts should be started by hand/fingers threading at least 1/4" in, you may have to work the headers a bit. I had seen another post where they had to cut back one of the bolts to get it in; I didnt have to do this, they all went in fine. Mount and torque the headers before doing the mids.

Trans Cable - There is a wire bracket holding the transmissio n shift cable on the frame (drivers side); pull the cable out of the bracket and unbolt/remove the bracket completely, it wont be going back in. It will be in the way of the headers during install if not removed. Be sure to route the shift cable above the header collector, and zip-tie it to secure it away from the collector. There is also a heat shield near the wire bracket on the frame, I had to bend it down a bit to keep it from rubbing the bottom tube of the headers once mounted.

Hope this helps, This has to be the best mod outside of a blower; enjoy!

 

[Darkflow]

Looks good, wish I could afford a set of these right now but im in the process of rebuilding my Camaro. So all my mod money is going there for now, but ill get these one day unless another company decides to get off their ass and make some lol

 

[2nazt]

looking great man! Can't wait to get these one day as well

 

[audio1der]

Thank you for taking the time to share & document your thoughts & process.
Maybe someday the ARH's will come my way...

 

[1882]

I know the ARH headers are a bit nicer but if you're on a budget take a peek at JBA shorties, I got mine from AutoAnything for $450 shipped and am quite pleased with them.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Those ARH's make the factory logs look like junk.

 

[fasthemiram12]

Get the gears in yet?