At my wits end...

[flecker]

I hate this pos truck... and need some help before I set it on fire and roll it off a fawkin cliff.

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd, 5.9L automatic. It starts and runs... However, after about 5-10 minutes it just stalls. It typically does it when it goes into gear.

I have replaced the tps, the iac, pcv valve, the pickup coil, the maf, the temp sensor, the intake plenum gasket and checked for vac leaks. I have also checked the o2 sensors in the last year and replaced the one furthest away from the engine (back).

WTF am I missing here? Is it possible a crap crank sensor would cause a stalling issue when bad? More often after it warms up?

Since I replaced the iac, the issue has actually gotten a bit worse.

I HATE this dam truck.

Halp.

I am just trying to get it running smooth so I can sell it.

 

[flecker]

Anyone? What are the most common issues with this scenario?

 

[ramsare4real]

WTF am I missing here?

A mechanic. Replacing stuff randomly doesn't always work.
Good luck.

 

[flecker]

A mechanic. Replacing stuff randomly doesn't always work.
Good luck.

So you have no clue? Got it...

Anyone else?

 

[GTyankee]

sound like you might be throwing parts at it, hoping something will fix it

You need to use a reliable SCAN TOOL & get a reading, it will give you a CODE number
that number will tell you what the problem could be

such as:

Dakota – Ram Truck/Van/Wagon (1996 – 1997) – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

or for diesels

Ram Truck 5.9L Turbo Diesel (1996 – 1997) – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

 

[flecker]

sound like you might be throwing parts at it, hoping something will fix it

You need to use a reliable SCAN TOOL & get a reading, it will give you a CODE number
that number will tell you what the problem could be

such as:

Dakota – Ram Truck/Van/Wagon (1996 – 1997) – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

or for diesels

Ram Truck 5.9L Turbo Diesel (1996 – 1997) – TroubleCodes.net

www.troublecodes.net

Thank You.

 

[flecker]

So I checked for codes. Again... and it flashes a 12, and a 55. The 12 is because I had the battery disconnected I'm sure.

With that said the thing idles fine, albeit slightly high (1200 rpm's- ish) until it warms up and that's when it starts idling poorly and stalling.

I am leaning towards the upstream O2 sensor now... ANY help is very much appreciated.

 

[runamuck]

what about fuel filter

 

[flecker]

what about fuel filter

I did have to change the fuel pump as it was dead when I first started on the truck. The pressure seems good, and it does start right up and run pretty decent until it is fully warmed up.

I will throw a fuel pressure gauge on it though to rule it out. I appreciate the input.

 

[fireflymedic]

I was thinking fuel also.

 

[flecker]

Fuel is fine... running normal pressure. 48 or so when the key is flipped and drops slightly when running.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Replace the fuel filter and put some seafoam in the fuel tank.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Replace the fuel filter and put some seafoam in the fuel tank.

Yes.... two cans and toss in some premium fuel, too!

 

[nlambert182]

Oddly enough.... I had a similar situation on my old 97 Ram.

I can't tell you WHY this fixed it because at the time I was young and broke and couldn't afford a mechanic to diagnose it so I gambled, but mine was doing the same thing. One day it stalled out at the entrance to the part store so frustrated, and on a whim, I had them load test my battery and it had a dead cell. It cranked every time and the battery never "tested" bad with my meter but that seemed to be the culprit for me. I replaced the battery and drove the truck for 2 more years with no more issues.

Not saying that you should fire the parts cannon at it but it might not hurt just to get the battery load tested.

 

[pacofortacos]

The coil fails on those models, and usually act up after the engine is warm.
When it stalls does it fire right back up ?

 

[flecker]

Oddly enough.... I had a similar situation on my old 97 Ram.

I can't tell you WHY this fixed it because at the time I was young and broke and couldn't afford a mechanic to diagnose it so I gambled, but mine was doing the same thing. One day it stalled out at the entrance to the part store so frustrated, and on a whim, I had them load test my battery and it had a dead cell. It cranked every time and the battery never "tested" bad with my meter but that seemed to be the culprit for me. I replaced the battery and drove the truck for 2 more years with no more issues.

Not saying that you should fire the parts cannon at it but it might not hurt just to get the battery load tested.

It has a fairly fresh battery... I will get it checked though.

The coil fails on those models, and usually act up after the engine is warm.
When it stalls does it fire right back up ?

YES. Fires right back up, and will idle but has a stumble. Is there a way to test it?

 

[flecker]

So just to recap...

Here's what's happening. 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd, automatic, 5.9L (360 gas engine). Starts, runs, warms up and starts to idle rough like it has a slight miss, stumbles on occasion eventually stalls. It does this randomly, but typically when it goes in gear or after you hit gas it hesitates and then just sort of drops off on deceleration. I can drive it, and it will actually run sort of ok while your foot is in it going down the road.

Here's what's been done. It sat for years, so I did all the normal tune up stuff and rehab trying to get it going. Has a new temp sensor, maf, tps, iac, plenum gasket, plugs, cap and rotor, pcv valve, pickup coil in dist., new downstream o2 sensor, (have an upstream sensor on the way), fuel pump (was bad after sitting for years), 2 year old battery that is good.

I have gone through the wiring harness with a meter to check integrity and it checks out so far... I also used dielectric grease at all the plug points and checked grounds to verify that wasn't an issue. I know the tps and iac were bad. The tps had wrong voltage through the range and the iac was corroded and fouled beyond cleaning. The pickup coil I have no idea how to test, but it was 20 bucks. The cap was junk and the rotor got replaced with the cap. The o2 sensor I replaced had the wires ripped off, so I didn't trust it to try and crimp them... The fuel pump was obviously gone as it didn't make any pressure when I tried to fire it up after years of sitting....

That's what I got thus far.

 

[nlambert182]

It has a fairly fresh battery... I will get it checked though.

YES. Fires right back up, and will idle but has a stumble. Is there a way to test it?

Any part store can put a load tester on the battery to check it.

You might want to check your positive battery cable as well and make sure that it's secured at both ends with no fraying.

Do your gauges or anything else start acting up when the truck starts losing power? You could have a PCM on its way out. I've heard of some having issues with chips on the pcb failing, so it is possible that the PCM could be the culprit.

If you're not comfortable opening it up and checking it, find a mechanic that can. I don't know that I'd throw any more parts at it without being able to pinpoint the issue.

 

[flecker]

I changed the battery cables already. The negative one was pretty crusty as well as the positive cable to the fuse box under the hood. Like I said the battery is less than a couple years old, and I don't see that being the problem just yet. I will check it to be sure though.

 

[pacofortacos]

The coil is hard to trouble shoot, you might see stray sparks at night or if you hit it with water it might act up and stall.
Easiest is to go to a pic a part and just grab one..

You might want to look at it at night as a plug wire/coil wire can be going to.
Spray it down with some water when idling might show something also.

A bad ground connection on the sensors - usually black with a blue tracer on most mopar cars - can cause what you describe also.

No check engine light?