Avoiding the hemi tick?

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Zoe Saldana

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Lmao, go back and reread my post. 6.5 qts WITH 500 cc of LG. 500 cc = approx .5 qt. Unless I'm mistaken, and I spelled it out pretty simply, that equals 7 quarts.

So now you put in 500 CUBIC CENTIMETERS of Lubegard - that's 16.9 oz.

You are now 91.6cc short of the directions.
 

RodRamCar

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Yes my apology, I put in somewhere between 18 and 21. Sorry heads in the wrong place.
 

RodRamCar

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So now you put in 500 CUBIC CENTIMETERS of Lubegard - that's 16.9 oz.

You are now 91.6cc short of the directions.
God I guess my engine is ****** now, yeah? Lol I put about 6.4 qts and at least 18 oz of lubeguard. I didn't go exact with it.
 

RodRamCar

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You give Rednecks a bad name.

Apologize to them.
It's why i said I was a dumb redneck. But in all reality, people overthink this stuff or worry too much. I'm forgetful in nature after-the-fact.
 

Zoe Saldana

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It's why i said I was a dumb redneck. But in all reality, people overthink this stuff or worry too much. I'm forgetful in nature after-the-fact.

Well, rednecks are know for being SMART! Only a fool underestimates a redneck.
 

Dginn69

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It says on the bottle that one bottle will treat the entire engine. Or 3 oz for every quart of oil for heavy duty or commercial use. Should 21 oz used for normal use?
 

Zoe Saldana

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It says on the bottle that one bottle will treat the entire engine. Or 3 oz for every quart of oil for heavy duty or commercial use. Should 21 oz used for normal use?



Add 3 oz. of Bio/Tech for every quart of motor oil to the crank case. Can be added at any point in motor oil life. For best results, add to fresh oil during oil change. 10 oz. bottle treats one 3-1/2 quart system. 15 oz. bottle treats one 5 quart system.
 

Hagar1

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I abuse my 5.7 hemi with oil changes every 6000 kilometers and use mopar oil filters yet my lifters sound like a room full of teletype machines printing off the dead sea scrolls.
I am holding my opinion as oil congealing for some still unknown reason. The lifter tick is a result of oil restriction or starvation.
 

Wild one

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I abuse my 5.7 hemi with oil changes every 6000 kilometers and use mopar oil filters yet my lifters sound like a room full of teletype machines printing off the dead sea scrolls.
I am holding my opinion as oil congealing for some still unknown reason. The lifter tick is a result of oil restriction or starvation.
You do realize the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters hang out in the open in the crankcase,there is no pressurized oil fed to either the lobe or the lifter roller,they are still strictly lubricated by the oil flung off the crankshaft. If you take the oil pan off the engine,and look up past the crank and rods,you can see the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters,and there is no oil passege surrounding them. If you have a stuck lifter that won't come out the top,you remove the cam,and then you can push the lifter out of it's bore,and it'll fall into the oil pan.
 

RamDiver

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I abuse my 5.7 hemi with oil changes every 6000 kilometers and use mopar oil filters yet my lifters sound like a room full of teletype machines printing off the dead sea scrolls.
I am holding my opinion as oil congealing for some still unknown reason. The lifter tick is a result of oil restriction or starvation.


Have you read the LubeGard poll thread?

I'm convinced that for the cost, it's a worthwhile addition to my OCI routine at least during the colder seasons and perhaps always for the older trucks.

I tried a 15 Oz jug with my last oil change and it seemed to improve the engine running smoothly and quieter.

.
 

Hagar1

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You do realize the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters hang out in the open in the crankcase,there is no pressurized oil fed to either the lobe or the lifter roller,they are still strictly lubricated by the oil flung off the crankshaft. If you take the oil pan off the engine,and look up past the crank and rods,you can see the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters,and there is no oil passege surrounding them. If you have a stuck lifter that won't come out the top,you remove the cam,and then you can push the lifter out of it's bore,and it'll fall into the oil pan.
Oh, I'm well aware of that. It is too bad that they didn't incorporate "squirters" in the production engines. I worked on what must have been a "pre-production" version years ago and there DEFINITELY were squirters on that particular engine. And, NO, the bigger versions were not yet available.
 

Hagar1

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Have you read the LubeGard poll thread?

I'm convinced that for the cost, it's a worthwhile addition to my OCI routine at least during the colder seasons and perhaps always for the older trucks.

I tried a 15 Oz jug with my last oil change and it seemed to improve the engine running smoothly and quieter.

.
Every oil change includes a bottle of "Liquid Moly" along with the appropriate amount of Castrol 5W20 per manufacturers recommendations along with a new Mopar Oil filter. It is not that I'm not doing everything right, it is simply that there is a huge design flaw in that engine. The "only" lube that the cam gets is what may run off the lifters or what may get to the cam from splash.
 

RamDiver

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Every oil change includes a bottle of "Liquid Moly" along with the appropriate amount of Castrol 5W20 per manufacturers recommendations along with a new Mopar Oil filter. It is not that I'm not doing everything right, it is simply that there is a huge design flaw in that engine. The "only" lube that the cam gets is what may run off the lifters or what may get to the cam from splash.

Yes, there are many threads here discussing those hemi issues and some users are taking action as an attempt to reduce premature wear and mitigate early failures associated with these deficiencies.

Have you found improvement from using the liquid moly product and are you using a full synthetic oil?

I switched my Tundra to full synthetic oil in about '08 or '09 and never looked back so the Ram has received the same and I added the LubeGard at the last OCI.

I've also been using a Fram Ultra synthetic oil filters that appears to be a much better quality and better suited for synthetic oil than the recommended Mopar filter.

There's lots of info in the oil filter thread or Bob's the oil guy's site.

I'm not more than a backyard mechanic but I've found all this info informative and helpful with developing my own plan to mitigate a premature hemi failure.

I won't know if it was productive for many years. Hopefully, we will still be permitted to continue using ICE trucks for the rest of our time and not be forced into some other pretend green solution such as EVs.

.
 

Wild one

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Every oil change includes a bottle of "Liquid Moly" along with the appropriate amount of Castrol 5W20 per manufacturers recommendations along with a new Mopar Oil filter. It is not that I'm not doing everything right, it is simply that there is a huge design flaw in that engine. The "only" lube that the cam gets is what may run off the lifters or what may get to the cam from splash.
I'd run 5W-30 instead of 5W-20.Even Ma Mopar says 5W-30 is okay in the engines.Read the note at the bottom,this is from the 700 page printed manual. Supposedly they were forced to remove this reconmendation in the 17 and never manuals,as the rumour i heard is the trucks wouldn't make their claimed milege numbers using 5W-30,and gubbermint nannies were breathing down their necks.Whether that's true we'll never know,but one thing we do know,is the engines haven't changed from 17 to now,and everytime they go after milege numbers they drop the oil specs,the new trucks call for 0W-20. I expect we'll see more cam failures in the trucks using 0W-20,but they don't release warrenty claim numbers,so it'll be hard to track.
 

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markabby

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so, i bring my truck to the dealer for oil changes. what type of oil do they use in my 2020 hemi? and what type of oil filters do they use?

with that, why can't i just add the biotech lubeguard after each oil change? or, is the pennzoil better than what the dealer uses?

my truck only has 24,000 on it, but, if it's better to change my own oil, i'll do it, no problem there, i'm just asking if the dealer uses a cheap oil and filter each time.
 

Burla

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so, i bring my truck to the dealer for oil changes. what type of oil do they use in my 2020 hemi? and what type of oil filters do they use?

with that, why can't i just add the biotech lubeguard after each oil change? or, is the pennzoil better than what the dealer uses?

my truck only has 24,000 on it, but, if it's better to change my own oil, i'll do it, no problem there, i'm just asking if the dealer uses a cheap oil and filter each time.
most likely your dealer uses Pennzoil blend and the paper Mopar filter. If you want to know for sure, do a uoa and post it in Blackstone thread for comment. Or just ride with that and put a bottle of the best known insurance policy biotech in and ride with it. The one thing that is a weak spot would be the filter, if you could bring in a fram ultra or fe2 endurance and had them install it, maybe a better way forward. Their house oil is fine stuff, unless you have hemi tick, then follow the tick threads.
 

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I'd run 5W-30 instead of 5W-20.

Aren't we playing with a delicate balance between the oil being thin enough to get more coverage faster during startup versus sufficiently thick enough to improve surface adherence?

Do you believe that additives such as liquid moly or LubeGard maintain sufficient surface coating to negate the requirements to use a thinner blend for better oil dispersion during startup and that we're better off with the thicker 5W-30 to further enhance surface coating and reduce friction?

.
 

ramffml

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get more coverage faster during startup

There is no such thing. Oil is reaching every part of the engine at the same speed regardless of viscosity, unless you go way out of bounds and hit the pressure relief in the system. Beyond that, increasing viscosity just gives a tiny bump in oil pressure.
 
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