Bed lights, puddle lights, flush mount reverse light install (PIC heavy)

[JinxCanada]

I have 4 LED (6 per cube) lights that flush mount going into my rear bumper soon....well...as soon as I have the time and balls to start cutting my bumper. LOL They'll output 3000 Lumens

 

[sbarron]

I have 4 LED (6 per cube) lights that flush mount going into my rear bumper soon....well...as soon as I have the time and balls to start cutting my bumper. LOL They'll output 3000 Lumens

Nice! That should light it up!!!

I marked the openings, measured again. Stood back and looked, measured again using completely different reference points. Stood back and looked again and then remeasured for good luck It WAS nerve wracking putting the first cut into the bumper. One hint: DON'T use a level to mark the bumper unless your are sure your truck bumper is mounted perfectly level, your truck sits perfectly level, and your truck is sitting on perfectly level ground (mine wasn't). I used a square from the top edge of the bumper to take my measurements.

Good luck with the mod and make sure you post pics when it's done.

 

[res1551cue]

Great work BTW. I've been wanting to add cargo lights in the back of my 14 RAM (I have a tonneau cover) for a while now but wanted them to work in conjunction with the cargo light. For example, I want them to come on with the cargo light switch and to come on when the approach lights are on. Is all I have to do it tap into this white/tan wire that you're showing here??

The answer is yes. I did this a while back for mine. I ran both wires up underneath the truck into the back seat. I used the both holding down the seat on the drivers side as ground and ran the positive cable to the tan and white cable in the foot well. Have had it for about a year with no issues. Hope this helps.

 

[MoreOvalteenPlz]

Great work BTW. I've been wanting to add cargo lights in the back of my 14 RAM (I have a tonneau cover) for a while now but wanted them to work in conjunction with the cargo light. For example, I want them to come on with the cargo light switch and to come on when the approach lights are on. Is all I have to do it tap into this white/tan wire that you're showing here??

Yes the white/tan is what you want. I tapped into it under the drivers front door sill and ran my wire through the rubber grommet that the emergency brake cable goes through and back to rear bumper then up. I'm almost positive that you can tap into the cargo light wire on the trailer light harness and it will have the same effect. This would be a much easier option and would save wire.

 

[res1551cue]

I have recently installed bed lights, puddle lights and flush mount Rigid aux reverse lights.

I started by re-doing a part of my earlier AUX lighting install.

Build thread: http://www.ramforum.com/f41/led_light_bar_pods_install_behind_grill_bumper-63186/

I ended up with 5 different power wires run to either the battery or fuse box or other ground. I decided to clean this up by making a central power distribution point. I purchase a waterproof box and the Blue Sea Systems ST 12 Blade Fuse Block for this . The Blue Sea Systems gear, while not the cheapest, is great quality.



box is mounted to OEM fuse box with 6 pairs of magnets, epoxied each to bottom of waterproof box and top of OEM fuse box. This lets me lift Aux fuse box to access OEM fuses.





Plenty of room for future upgrades...

more soon....

You happen to have a diagram of how you wired up the 12 Fuse Block? I am wanting to do something very similar.

 

[sbarron]

You happen to have a diagram of how you wired up the 12 Fuse Block? I am wanting to do something very similar.

Sorry, I don't have a diagram. I ran about 2' of 8 AWG for each the + and - and crimped/soldered appropriate amperage rated ends and bolted these to the battery posts. These then went into loom and through a hole drilled in the side of the waterproof box.



I may add a smaller inline fuse between the battery and the fuse block at some point but haven't figured out a good mounting location yet,

 

[res1551cue]

Sorry, I don't have a diagram. I ran about 2' of 8 AWG for each the + and - and crimped/soldered appropriate amperage rated ends and bolted these to the battery posts. These then went into loom and through a hole drilled in the side of the waterproof box.



I may add a smaller inline fuse between the battery and the fuse block at some point but haven't figured out a good mounting location yet,

No problem. I think I can figure it out from the pictures. Thank you very much. Very well thought out and detailed setup.

 

[sbarron]

good luck. post pictures when you're done, I'm always looking for inspiration on more ways to spend money....

 

[jadocs]

Yes the white/tan is what you want. I tapped into it under the drivers front door sill and ran my wire through the rubber grommet that the emergency brake cable goes through and back to rear bumper then up. I'm almost positive that you can tap into the cargo light wire on the trailer light harness and it will have the same effect. This would be a much easier option and would save wire.

Is the wire in the trailer light harness the same color (white/tan)?

 

[sbarron]

Is the wire in the trailer light harness the same color (white/tan)?

Looks like its white/orange...

 

[jadocs]

Perfect thanks sb

 

[Raist11]

Great thread, definitely using this as a tool for my upgrades. Thanks for the write-up.

 

[jadocs]

Hey SB you wouldn't happen to know what color wire, and where the best place to tap for a high beam trigger would you?

 

[sbarron]

Hey SB you wouldn't happen to know what color wire, and where the best place to tap for a high beam trigger would you?

My relays are mounted in front of the fuse box so they are triggered by the WT/GR wire behind the headlight. As I didn't want to actually "tap" a wire in that location due to possible exposure to the elements, I found the correct plugs to match the factory loom and added a pigtail.

 

[jadocs]

No kidding...that's a great idea. Do you have a pic of that by chance?

Is this generally how you did it (minus the tap)?

Pic from web

 

[sbarron]

This is probably more like what you'r after... I lifted this from my original wiring diagram.
Complete wiring diagram is on pg 1 - Post 2 of build thread: http://www.ramforum.com/f41/led_light_bar_pods_install_behind_grill_bumper-63186/

 

[jadocs]

Damn you are a wiring guru. If I was still up at Wainwright I'd be coming to pay you a visit. Thanks for the info.

 

[jadocs]

I drew this up on PowerPoint before you responded today. Is this generally correct, minus the pigtails (tapping method)? I'll have to carefully read the post you linked to see if I want to tackle and incorporate the dimming function.

I have two 7 terminal SPDT switches with two dependent LEDs (on, off, on), and I was trying to lay out how to hook up a driving LED bar and LED reverse lights.

 

[jadocs]

Damn after looking at it I think I forgot to link the top two "+" terminals on the top switch and run it to power.

 

[sbarron]

Looks like it should work if your have the switches wired correctly. I'm not overly familiar with the 7 pole DPDT configuration.