Best brake fluid to use?

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Dilligaf-23

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I'm needing to flush my brake fluid and was wondering what the best fluid to use on a 16 ram 1500. I drive hard and fast so want something that lasts.
 

Burla

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In texas if that is where you are at, it might be beneficial to use high end brake fluids, the argument against high end brake fluids is moisture characteristics. So research brake fluids with 600F dry boiling temp and 400f wet boiling temp. These are your entry level high end fluids, you can even go higher but at what cost. To go even higher doubles the cost of the fluid. So for sure you will want to use dot 4 over dot 3. So look at the usual suspects redline or amsoils stat sheets and these 600f fluids are true synthetic long lasting brake fluids. Maybe not the best for snow country, but warm regions such as texas good to use. Also, if you brake has been working good maybe just use prestone dot 4. No it';s not the best, but unless you tow heavy or brake heavy then you might not see much benefit in using fancy brake fluids. All dot 4 is compatable with dot 3 or other dot 4's, they will mix with no issue.
 
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Dilligaf-23

Dilligaf-23

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I brake heavy
In texas if that is where you are at, it might be beneficial to use high end brake fluids, the argument against high end brake fluids is moisture characteristics. So research brake fluids with 600F dry boiling temp and 400f wet boiling temp. These are your entry level high end fluids, you can even go higher but at what cost. To go even higher doubles the cost of the fluid. So for sure you will want to use dot 4 over dot 3. So look at the usual suspects redline or amsoils stat sheets and these 600f fluids are true synthetic long lasting brake fluids. Maybe not the best for snow country, but warm regions such as texas good to use. Also, if you brake has been working good maybe just use prestone dot 4. No it';s not the best, but unless you tow heavy or brake heavy then you might not see much benefit in using fancy brake fluids. All dot 4 is compatable with dot 3 or other dot 4's, they will mix with no issue.
I brake heavy, but pedal has been good. I can use dot 4 when the system says dot 3??
 

Burla

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Yes dot 3 and 4 can be used they are interchangable. Do your research dot 4 is better for your heavy braking. simple google search you will have the info. You want higher wet/dry boiling points. The cost is moisture intrusion, more of an issue in the cold if at all.
 

Sherman Bird

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I brake heavy

I brake heavy, but pedal has been good. I can use dot 4 when the system says dot 3??
The argument for DOT 3 as per the manufacturer stipulation is that the hydraulic unit of the ABS might be affected negatively by any other fluid. I've used the twin-purpose Jonnsen's DOT 3/4 with good results.
 

caulk04

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DOT 3 4 and 5.1 are compatible.

DOT 5 is not. Silicone based.

If you're on track and flushing your brake fluid you're already miles ahead of the general public. Any decent DOT 4 will be fine and easily accessible.
 

Sherman Bird

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DOT 3 4 and 5.1 are compatible.

DOT 5 is not. Silicone based.

If you're on track and flushing your brake fluid you're already miles ahead of the general public. Any decent DOT 4 will be fine and easily accessible.
Yup, in our layperson experiences, these other fluids ARE perfectly fine. However, I put in EXACTLY what the manufacturer calls for to alleviate liability.
 

ppine

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I used to use silicone brake fluid in Corvettes and switched them over to stainless steel brakes.
For trucks the owner's manual has the right stuff.
 

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but unless you tow heavy or brake heavy then you might not see much benefit in using fancy brake fluids
If someone is braking excessively and/or heavily while towing, which brake fluid is probably the least of their problems. Most street brake pads while be useless once the rotors start to overheat/glow.

@Dilligaf-23 define "heavy braking" ? Does the ABS let you know you've exceeded the tire traction coefficient?
 
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Dilligaf-23

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If someone is braking excessively and/or heavily while towing, which brake fluid is probably the least of their problems. Most street brake pads while be useless once the rotors start to overheat/glow.

@Dilligaf-23 define "heavy braking" ? Does the ABS let you know you've exceeded the tire traction coefficient?
I drive hard and fast alot so my brake fluid gets pretty hot.
 

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Motul DOT 5.1 or StopTech STR 600 High Performance, these are two fantastic brands.

I'm currently using Motul DOT 5.1 in my truck, and have used the StopTech STR 600 in my 06' 300SRT8.
 

Docwagon1776

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Yup, in our layperson experiences, these other fluids ARE perfectly fine. However, I put in EXACTLY what the manufacturer calls for to alleviate liability.

Show me the liability attached to the owner/driver in using a multi-compatible fluid, which *exceeds* the requirements the manufacturer originally uses. Whatever helps you sleep at night, but for anyone concerned by this notion, this is not a thing.

I'm needing to flush my brake fluid and was wondering what the best fluid to use on a 16 ram 1500. I drive hard and fast so want something that lasts.

I use this in all my vehicles and flush every other year: https://www.boschautoparts.com/p/esi-brake-fluid
 

crash68

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I drive hard and fast alot so my brake fluid gets pretty hot.
I'll take that as an assumption, or how exactly are you measuring brake fluid temperature?
Street brake pads and rotors will be cooking before the fluid will.
If your smelling your brakes because their hot, consider going with a high performance big brake kit, you'll just have to get used to lack of brakes when the high performance pads are cold. Most HP pads will caution you about using them on the street.
 

Sherman Bird

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Show me the liability attached to the owner/driver in using a multi-compatible fluid, which *exceeds* the requirements the manufacturer originally uses. Whatever helps you sleep at night, but for anyone concerned by this notion, this is not a thing.



I use this in all my vehicles and flush every other year: https://www.boschautoparts.com/p/esi-brake-fluid
You missed the spirit of what I alluded to about liability of fluid specs. WE know that the aftermarket fluid is the better of the fluids. The adversarial nature of we mere mortals against giant GM, FORD, CHRYSLER, et.al. do not have the resources to fight off "We are denying your warranty or any liability on our part due to you using a non-specified product". Perhaps that clairfies what I mean! :)
 

Sherman Bird

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Some of my customers have new enough vehicles that are still under factory warranty. Whenever I perform the 30,60,90K service intervals, I specifically use factory original fluids and filters for service work. This includes brake fluid. This way, there can never be ANY misunderstanding about whether or not the parts "meet OE specs".
 
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Dilligaf-23

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I'll take that as an assumption, or how exactly are you measuring brake fluid temperature?
Street brake pads and rotors will be cooking before the fluid will.
If your smelling your brakes because their hot, consider going with a high performance big brake kit, you'll just have to get used to lack of brakes when the high performance pads are cold. Most HP pads will caution you about using them on the street.
Well, when your brake fluid is blacker than a struck match, I would say its time to change
 

Burla

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wow, way past due! One usual suspect with dark fluid is moisture, from like you say hot fluid. The problem is the high end fluids are more susptable to moisture, making the long term issue even worse. It might be a better strategy to go dot 3 or dot 4 on the lower end with boiling temps like entry level dot 4, but change it more often. High end dot 4's are great at heat, but they only make sense for a long interval when they arent used in this way. So when you use them hot like racing applications, towing heavy, or just as you say heavy braking, they will perform better then lower end stuff but you pay for that in interval. When hot fluid cools it brings in moisture. Maybe that moist air in texas a bigger issue then I thought. Instead of high end 600f dry boil, go with under 500 for moistures sake. Higher the boiling temp the higher the esters the more moisture comes from heat dissipation and transfer.

Dry Boiling PointWet Boiling PointComposition
DOT 3205°C/401°F140°C/284°FGlycol Ether
DOT 4230°C/446°F155°C/311°FGlycol Ether/Borate Ester
DOT 5260°C/500°F180°C/356°FSilicone
DOT 5.1260°C/500°F180°C/356°FGlycol Ether/Borate Ester
 
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Burla

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I change because of new information, if you say it's black yes everything you say about hot fluid is likely. But sadly a long interval may not be in the cards regardless.
 
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Dilligaf-23

Dilligaf-23

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wow, way past due! One usual suspect with dark fluid is moisture, from like you say hot fluid. The problem is the high end fluids are more susptable to moisture, making the long term issue even worse. It might be a better strategy to go dot 3 or dot 4 on the lower end with boiling temps like entry level dot 4, but change it more often. High end dot 4's are great at heat, but they only make sense for a long interval when they arent used in this way. So when you use them hot like racing applications, towing heavy, or just as you say heavy braking, they will perform better then lower end stuff but you pay for that in interval. When hot fluid cools it brings in moisture. Maybe that moist air in texas a bigger issue then I thought. Instead of high end 600f dry boil, go with under 500 for moistures sake. Higher the boiling temp the higher the esters the more moisture comes from heat dissipation and transfer.

Dry Boiling PointWet Boiling PointComposition
DOT 3205°C/401°F140°C/284°FGlycol Ether
DOT 4230°C/446°F155°C/311°FGlycol Ether/Borate Ester
DOT 5260°C/500°F180°C/356°FSilicone
DOT 5.1260°C/500°F180°C/356°FGlycol Ether/Borate Ester
I have a very heavy foot and Ive been meaning to do it for awhile. Now that i have the kit to switch out fluid, I'll probably do it once a year.
 

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