Dilligaf-23
Member
I'm needing to flush my brake fluid and was wondering what the best fluid to use on a 16 ram 1500. I drive hard and fast so want something that lasts.
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I brake heavy, but pedal has been good. I can use dot 4 when the system says dot 3??In texas if that is where you are at, it might be beneficial to use high end brake fluids, the argument against high end brake fluids is moisture characteristics. So research brake fluids with 600F dry boiling temp and 400f wet boiling temp. These are your entry level high end fluids, you can even go higher but at what cost. To go even higher doubles the cost of the fluid. So for sure you will want to use dot 4 over dot 3. So look at the usual suspects redline or amsoils stat sheets and these 600f fluids are true synthetic long lasting brake fluids. Maybe not the best for snow country, but warm regions such as texas good to use. Also, if you brake has been working good maybe just use prestone dot 4. No it';s not the best, but unless you tow heavy or brake heavy then you might not see much benefit in using fancy brake fluids. All dot 4 is compatable with dot 3 or other dot 4's, they will mix with no issue.
The argument for DOT 3 as per the manufacturer stipulation is that the hydraulic unit of the ABS might be affected negatively by any other fluid. I've used the twin-purpose Jonnsen's DOT 3/4 with good results.I brake heavy
I brake heavy, but pedal has been good. I can use dot 4 when the system says dot 3??
Yup, in our layperson experiences, these other fluids ARE perfectly fine. However, I put in EXACTLY what the manufacturer calls for to alleviate liability.DOT 3 4 and 5.1 are compatible.
DOT 5 is not. Silicone based.
If you're on track and flushing your brake fluid you're already miles ahead of the general public. Any decent DOT 4 will be fine and easily accessible.
If someone is braking excessively and/or heavily while towing, which brake fluid is probably the least of their problems. Most street brake pads while be useless once the rotors start to overheat/glow.but unless you tow heavy or brake heavy then you might not see much benefit in using fancy brake fluids
I drive hard and fast alot so my brake fluid gets pretty hot.If someone is braking excessively and/or heavily while towing, which brake fluid is probably the least of their problems. Most street brake pads while be useless once the rotors start to overheat/glow.
@Dilligaf-23 define "heavy braking" ? Does the ABS let you know you've exceeded the tire traction coefficient?
Yup, in our layperson experiences, these other fluids ARE perfectly fine. However, I put in EXACTLY what the manufacturer calls for to alleviate liability.
I'm needing to flush my brake fluid and was wondering what the best fluid to use on a 16 ram 1500. I drive hard and fast so want something that lasts.
I'll take that as an assumption, or how exactly are you measuring brake fluid temperature?I drive hard and fast alot so my brake fluid gets pretty hot.
You missed the spirit of what I alluded to about liability of fluid specs. WE know that the aftermarket fluid is the better of the fluids. The adversarial nature of we mere mortals against giant GM, FORD, CHRYSLER, et.al. do not have the resources to fight off "We are denying your warranty or any liability on our part due to you using a non-specified product". Perhaps that clairfies what I mean!Show me the liability attached to the owner/driver in using a multi-compatible fluid, which *exceeds* the requirements the manufacturer originally uses. Whatever helps you sleep at night, but for anyone concerned by this notion, this is not a thing.
I use this in all my vehicles and flush every other year: https://www.boschautoparts.com/p/esi-brake-fluid
Well, when your brake fluid is blacker than a struck match, I would say its time to changeI'll take that as an assumption, or how exactly are you measuring brake fluid temperature?
Street brake pads and rotors will be cooking before the fluid will.
If your smelling your brakes because their hot, consider going with a high performance big brake kit, you'll just have to get used to lack of brakes when the high performance pads are cold. Most HP pads will caution you about using them on the street.
Dry Boiling Point | Wet Boiling Point | Composition | |
---|---|---|---|
DOT 3 | 205°C/401°F | 140°C/284°F | Glycol Ether |
DOT 4 | 230°C/446°F | 155°C/311°F | Glycol Ether/Borate Ester |
DOT 5 | 260°C/500°F | 180°C/356°F | Silicone |
DOT 5.1 | 260°C/500°F | 180°C/356°F | Glycol Ether/Borate Ester |
I have a very heavy foot and Ive been meaning to do it for awhile. Now that i have the kit to switch out fluid, I'll probably do it once a year.wow, way past due! One usual suspect with dark fluid is moisture, from like you say hot fluid. The problem is the high end fluids are more susptable to moisture, making the long term issue even worse. It might be a better strategy to go dot 3 or dot 4 on the lower end with boiling temps like entry level dot 4, but change it more often. High end dot 4's are great at heat, but they only make sense for a long interval when they arent used in this way. So when you use them hot like racing applications, towing heavy, or just as you say heavy braking, they will perform better then lower end stuff but you pay for that in interval. When hot fluid cools it brings in moisture. Maybe that moist air in texas a bigger issue then I thought. Instead of high end 600f dry boil, go with under 500 for moistures sake. Higher the boiling temp the higher the esters the more moisture comes from heat dissipation and transfer.
Dry Boiling Point Wet Boiling Point Composition DOT 3 205°C/401°F 140°C/284°F Glycol Ether DOT 4 230°C/446°F 155°C/311°F Glycol Ether/Borate Ester DOT 5 260°C/500°F 180°C/356°F Silicone DOT 5.1 260°C/500°F 180°C/356°F Glycol Ether/Borate Ester