Blackstone Results

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

2017 RAM 2500HD
6.4L
Currently 103K Miles
Oil changes usually 4500 - 5k Miles intervals
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum

 

[HEMIMANN]

What oil you using?

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.

 

[tron67j]

I sent my analysis in almost 3 weeks ago, reached out and they said they have it but backed up. Waiting to see what comes back.

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

I sent my analysis in almost 3 weeks ago, reached out and they said they have it but backed up. Waiting to see what comes back.

It is annoying, mine was sent December 22, and got the answer January 23.

 

[Burla]

Traditional PUP 0w40 run, you can see why it is a good oil and also see why people dont prefer it, depending on what is important. You can see the oil is not 40 weight anymore, fast shear rate went from 13.9 to the 11's, so now it is a 30 weight. Alum is on the edge of normal, not great not bad. A uoa in a cold winter that is 40 weight you expect some alum which usually comes from dry pistons. Iron looks great and copper decent, as you would expect now because the engine is now in low wear period, 100k is the sweat spot for uoa's all the way until you see deterioration. In my opinion it is worth doing again maybe kick the miles up a bit to give a better idea, with that tbn you are safe to add a couple thou, maybe do a 6500 interval and run it again. However, for a heavy duty truck these wear numbers are probably near top 90%. Nothing to worry about for sure, I could also make an argument no more uoa's are needed. Depends on what type of guy you are, there is zero red flags here, just some potential for improvement. The challenge would be how do I chose an oil that doesnt shear as much and also keep alum low, so when you look at it that way maybe this is the best balance for an oil. Good protection and cold flow, which are two competing forces.

 

[HEMIMANN]

As Burla notes, high shear is bad in so much as it not only reduces wear protection, but the sheared molecules oxidize and form deposits.

Yes, anti-oxidation additives (chain-stopper type) added to the oil prevent some of these deposits, but are not added in sufficient quantity to handle all that from heavy shearing.

You can choose to change oil more frequently with a high-shearing oil, or use a more stable oil in two different seasonal multi-viscosity grades like I do (5W-30 and 0W-30). I don't like very wide multi-viscosity oils even in super-oil variations. Even with expensive VII additives, there's a limit to high well these oils function with a wide viscosity range. 5W-40 is about the widest I will go, and only in synthetic with stable VII additive.

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

Traditional PUP 0w40 run, you can see why it is a good oil and also see why people dont prefer it, depending on what is important. You can see the oil is not 40 weight anymore, fast shear rate went from 13.9 to the 11's, so now it is a 30 weight. Alum is on the edge of normal, not great not bad. A uoa in a cold winter that is 40 weight you expect some alum which usually comes from dry pistons. Iron looks great and copper decent, as you would expect now because the engine is now in low wear period, 100k is the sweat spot for uoa's all the way until you see deterioration. In my opinion it is worth doing again maybe kick the miles up a bit to give a better idea, with that tbn you are safe to add a couple thou, maybe do a 6500 interval and run it again. However, for a heavy duty truck these wear numbers are probably near top 90%. Nothing to worry about for sure, I could also make an argument no more uoa's are needed. Depends on what type of guy you are, there is zero red flags here, just some potential for improvement. The challenge would be how do I chose an oil that doesnt shear as much and also keep alum low, so when you look at it that way maybe this is the best balance for an oil. Good protection and cold flow, which a

Traditional PUP 0w40 run, you can see why it is a good oil and also see why people dont prefer it, depending on what is important. You can see the oil is not 40 weight anymore, fast shear rate went from 13.9 to the 11's, so now it is a 30 weight. Alum is on the edge of normal, not great not bad. A uoa in a cold winter that is 40 weight you expect some alum which usually comes from dry pistons. Iron looks great and copper decent, as you would expect now because the engine is now in low wear period, 100k is the sweat spot for uoa's all the way until you see deterioration. In my opinion it is worth doing again maybe kick the miles up a bit to give a better idea, with that tbn you are safe to add a couple thou, maybe do a 6500 interval and run it again. However, for a heavy duty truck these wear numbers are probably near top 90%. Nothing to worry about for sure, I could also make an argument no more uoa's are needed. Depends on what type of guy you are, there is zero red flags here, just some potential for improvement. The challenge would be how do I chose an oil that doesnt shear as much and also keep alum low, so when you look at it that way maybe this is the best balance for an oil. Good protection and cold flow, which are two competing forces.

Much appreciated input, but what would be a better alternative product? The oil sample was from 10 hour days going from California to Tennessee, and back. Not certain if so many miles per day would alter the numbers, or not but I was curious.

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

As Burla notes, high shear is bad in so much as it not only reduces wear protection, but the sheared molecules oxidize and form deposits.

Yes, anti-oxidation additives (chain-stopper type) added to the oil prevent some of these deposits, but are not added in sufficient quantity to handle all that from heavy shearing.

You can choose to change oil more frequently with a high-shearing oil, or use a more stable oil in two different seasonal multi-viscosity grades like I do (5W-30 and 0W-30). I don't like very wide multi-viscosity oils even in super-oil variations. Even with expensive VII additives, there's a limit to high well these oils function with a wide viscosity range. 5W-40 is about the widest I will go, and only in synthetic with stable VII additive.

Thank You, is Amsoil a better alternative?
I was running 600 - 900 miles per day for 6 days with that oil. I will take another sample to determine if that had a negative effect.

 

[Burla]

Much appreciated input, but what would be a better alternative product? The oil sample was from 10 hour days going from California to Tennessee, and back. Not certain if so many miles per day would alter the numbers, or not but I was curious.

Not saying there is one. Amsoil is way thicker, so eventhough it holds viscosity in theory, it would be thicker on dry starts. Perhaps "maybe" some dexos oil with top specs that is pao based might keep viscosity at the end of interval and still have cold characteristics. But it would all be theory, wear reports would be needed to judge. This oil 0w40 is serving you well.

With the low interval like you have the less those vii's are gonna varnish because your detergent package keep that at bay. But still some guys will want less, which really means less swing winter rating to weight, as in a 15w40 would have better visc. But, again, at the cost to cold performance. Amsoil 0w40 SS is a great oil, but it is thick which is why it is great. You oil will have better cold characteristics I do believe w/o looking at stat sheet.

 

[HEMIMANN]

OP is in SoCal, no need for 0W? If no tow, 5W-30 should be sufficient. If tow, bump up to 5W-40.

Amsoil should be better cold flow than Red Line anyway, since it's all PAO Group IV (exclusive of additive carrier ester oil), just like HPL is.

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

OP is in SoCal, no need for 0W? If no tow, 5W-30 should be sufficient. If tow, bump up to 5W-40.

Amsoil should be better cold flow than Red Line anyway, since it's all PAO Group IV (exclusive of additive carrier ester oil), just like HPL is.

I only see European Amsoil for 5W-40W?
I'm in 30°F - 120°F temperature range.

 

[HEMIMANN]

That is odd. I suggest calling or writing them to ask them why. i.e. - what is the purpose of Euro only 5W-40.

Truthfully, the 5W-30 is good enough for most usage, keep in mind Amsoil SS is all PAO Group IV. It's not gonna evaporate or shear like a Group III.

If you tow, then I'd suggest understanding more about why they offer 40 wt as they do.

They also have a 15W-50, but I'd only run that in summer.

 

[N0NAMETOGIVE]

That is odd. I suggest calling or writing them to ask them why. i.e. - what is the purpose of Euro only 5W-40.

Truthfully, the 5W-30 is good enough for most usage, keep in mind Amsoil SS is all PAO Group IV. It's not gonna evaporate or shear like a Group III.

If you tow, then I'd suggest understanding more about why they offer 40 wt as they do.

They also have a 15W-50, but I'd only run that in summer.

I seen a post stating SRT engineers recommended 15W-50W for warmer weather TSB 09-011-06.

 

[HEMIMANN]

I seen a post stating SRT engineers recommended 15W-50W for warmer weather TSB 09-011-06.

SRT is for high power = race engine. Unless you racing your truck, that is not necessary.