Brake and ABS warning lights

[Hemiguy0302]

So glad we dont need to worry about that **** eh RH?

 

[Shorty75]

Damn that's funny cause c-clip dana 35s are the joke of the Jeep world too. Everywhere I go! It's kinda scary to see what is stopping the axle shaft on a Dana 35 from sliding out.

 

[Trupiano]

So is it better to just remove the C-clips, and leave it that way?

 

[glass3222]

So is it better to just remove the C-clips, and leave it that way?

I don't think you can just remove the C-clips on a stock differential, they hold your axles in the diff, which make your wheels turn when you hit the skinny pedal. You need to replace you diff with a good LSD (i.e. DTT or Auburn) or locker/spool to get rid of the C-clips.

 

[Trupiano]

^^ Ok cool, glad that will fix the problem, that's what Im planning to do anyways. Have the DTT waiting in the garage. Just need to get some 4.56 gears for the front/back and an axle kit and I guess I wont have to worry about those damn clips any more.

 

[cwboyjohnny24]

They are more of a "w" looking clip and all they do is hold things in place for factory install. Yes, you can remove them all be it a pain in the ass but yes, you can and with no problems at all. The C clips hold the axle in place but the install clips are what breaks and kills the rear ends.

 

[RubberFrog]

You can remove them, but it's not without cost. Without the clips in you will see increased wear on the gears. It's a trade off between certain and immediate doom when a clip fails, or faster acceleration of normal wear and tear.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Well the mystery has been solved, but it's not pretty!


My LSD clutches grenaded, luckily not destroying the entire rear end. I am gonna need a new tone gear and new carrier housing with new clutch packs. Grand total $1400!

On the bright side my mechanic skills are not in question anymore! Whew! But my wallet is much lighter! Ouch!

Thanks for everyone who helped out, still pretty pissed about all the cool crap I could have gotten for all that $$.

I'm not sure I followed what you did to repair the rearend. Did you install a aftermarket differential, tone ring, and gears? $1400 should have covered the costs of a DTT, gears, master install kit, tone ring and labor. It did on mine. Just curious....

 

[Shorty75]

I'm not sure I followed what you did to repair the rearend. Did you install a aftermarket differential, tone ring, and gears? $1400 should have covered the costs of a DTT, gears, master install kit, tone ring and labor. It did on mine. Just curious....

I have no experience setting backlash on ring and pinions so I had a stealership do the install, I probably could have had a DTT intstalled for the same price, but I made the decision to stick to OEM.

I honestly didn't have days to think about it, I am 350mi from home and didn't know how long the remaining discs would last. I guess if one comes out and gets in between the ring and pinion or spiders, your screwed!

 

[Redtruck-VA]

I have no experience setting backlash on ring and pinions so I had a stealership do the install, I probably could have had a DTT intstalled for the same price, but I made the decision to stick to OEM.

I honestly didn't have days to think about it, I am 350mi from home and didn't know how long the remaining discs would last. I guess if one comes out and gets in between the ring and pinion or spiders, your screwed!

I hate to be the one to tell you but the OEM differential is the problem. That is one of the reasons folks are pushing to upgrade using after market pieces. There are quite a few used OEM differentials and gears sets laying around in our garages for the taking. Sorry it didn't work to your advantage, it was a lost opportunity.

 

[Shorty75]

Yeah, way to make a guy feel all "warm and fuzzy". The first one lasted 75k if the next one does than I'll be fine with that, or I guess I have to!

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Yeah, way to make a guy feel all "warm and fuzzy". The first one lasted 75k if the next one does than I'll be fine with that, or I guess I have to!

sorry...
Put it in the lesson learned book....

 

[Shorty75]

That book is awful full, going to volume 2.

 

[BertSo]

I am experiencing what may be a similar problem with my 1998 RAM 1500 4X4. When I frist start up there are no warning lights. After I drive a few miles both the ABS and Brake warning lights come on. If I stop for while and start up again they come on right away.

I've taken the vehicle to a local mechanic who ran some tests that he says suggest main relay failure. Attached with his invoice were printouts from Alldatapro Test 14A for repairing codes 65 and 66 Internal Main Relay. He also indicated that the main relay may just be the tip of the iceburg. Based on this I've not proceeded with any repairs.

Anyone have a suggested plan of attack?

 

[Hemi Hauler]

Great! Now you got me thinking about my ABS lights. What are my axels on a 07 2500? I scanned my truck and it came up erratic rear speed/wheel sensor. Replaced the sensor and cleared it and it was back on with in minutes. I haven't had this truck long but I have heard a howl that I haven't identified yet.

 

[huntram03]

GREAAAAAT! Both of mine have been on for a few weeks now and I also replaced that rear speed sensor to no avail.. I guess im gonna have to crack the seal and see what I got goin on back there..

 

[Redtruck-VA]

ABS/brake can be caused by a few things. On the 03 model, using a Diablo DSP to change your tire size can throw this code. A dirty front wheel sensor or a hub that is worn out can throw the code and a bad or contaminated VSS rearend sensor can throw the code. If you got debris on the rearend sensor chances are you have bigger issues going on. And if you have factory LS differential it is likely there is a broken clutch clip (harden steel) eating things inside the differetial, which may include the housing. Removing the cover for inspection is a good first move if the sensor was replaced and didn't fix the problem. Good luck....

 

[etmsdadkm]

I to have the same problem
I was told to ck the brake fluid level float switch