Bbodling
Junior Member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2015
- Posts
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
- Ram Year
- 2010
- Engine
- 5.7l hemi
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Also by using the air chisel, you might be able to either split the nut or loosen it up enough to use the socket trick. Heat and penetrating oil will be your friend. Another final (no fun) option is to drill out the stud and replace it once you get the wheel off.
I started to list reasons why I contemplated certain fixes could be problematic,,, but then decided it wasn't 'positive news', so no need to go there.
If all else fails, and you can't get to the rear of the hub flange to remove the stud head,,, eh,,,How bad do you want that rim?
I had this exact problem about 2 months ago with the same type of lug nut. Go to lowes and get yourself a hole saw that is just slightly larger than lug nut itself. Put some thick tape around the outside of the hole on the wheel itself to protect it just incase. The hole saw will make a clean cut through the soft lug nut aluminum. Once you have drilled through 98% of the lug nut and are about to reach the wheel itself, rock the wheel back and forth to break the last small bit of aluminum. Worst case scenario is you end up kicking the lug itself an you have to replace it, best case is you remove the reminisce of the lug nut from the lug, put the wheel back on and reinstall a new lug nut.
Might sound confusing, if you have questions let me know, this was is the best method in my opinion because it will do ZERO damage to the wheel itself. If you heat it to try and force a socket on you may get discoloration which sounds expensive to me.
I had this exact problem about 2 months ago with the same type of lug nut. Go to lowes and get yourself a hole saw that is just slightly larger than lug nut itself. Put some thick tape around the outside of the hole on the wheel itself to protect it just incase. The hole saw will make a clean cut through the soft lug nut aluminum. Once you have drilled through 98% of the lug nut and are about to reach the wheel itself, rock the wheel back and forth to break the last small bit of aluminum. Worst case scenario is you end up kicking the lug itself an you have to replace it, best case is you remove the reminisce of the lug nut from the lug, put the wheel back on and reinstall a new lug nut.
Might sound confusing, if you have questions let me know, this was is the best method in my opinion because it will do ZERO damage to the wheel itself. If you heat it to try and force a socket on you may get discoloration which sounds expensive to me.
I see no one has mentioned the first steps.
I find cussing and yelling at it can help immensely. Although you may have already used this approach. Sometimes it requires excessive amounts to get it loose. After spending the past week working on my 35' Class A motorhome replacing all four calipers, front shocks and a brake line, I've used this method repeatedly.
If you are looking to kill somebody this works great. You NEVER put anti-seize on lug nuts or studs, you want the lug nuts to stay tight not come off while driving. Most of the time the lug nut is pretty much sealed off from most moisture and the wheels get taken off every 5000 to 10000 miles for rotation anyway.Sorry to hear, at 130 ft-lbs that is not going to be fun. Always use anti-seize friends. The socket method seems to be the best idea, with an impact gun.