Busting wheel studs

[Hitman0002]

I am having issues with my front wheel studs. In the last year I have busted 9 or 10 wheel studs on my 1500. The truck has a 6in lift, 3 in body, 20in wheels, and 37s. This last time I said screw it and replaced all the front studs at the same time. I torqued the lugs down manually to approximately 130ft/lbs. Well I guess that’s not the correct answer because I just busted another one driving today. Help please.

 

[MADDOG]

See if you can't find some Grade 8 studs. Those should hold up better than standard studs.

I'm pretty sure they are breaking due to the additional unsprung weight stress out at the corners caused by the lift, wheels and tires.

 

[JB1]

What is the full specs of your wheels?

 

[Hitman0002]

Mayhem wheels 20x10 -24 offset This problem is becoming annoying since I am also try to work on my 71 Nova and now I have to take time out to fix this issue again. Just checked and have a second one on the verge of breaking

 

[Dmopar74]

What kind of lig nuts?

 

[JB1]

2014 Ram 1500 Big horn, 6in rough country susp., 3in PA body, Mayhem wheels 20x10 -24 offset, 37in pro comp AT Sports. What else do you need. This problem is becoming annoying since I am also try to work on my 71 Nova and now I have to take time out to fix this issue again.

which mayhem wheel?
hubcentric?
dual drilled?
exposed lugs?

full specs?

 

[chopperman1]

Hubcentric rings wrong or missing? Torque wrench good? 130#'s is perfect.

 

[Hitman0002]

It’s this rim. https://www.mayhemwheels.com/8015-update

This probably doesn’t help. I have no clue what lug nuts are on it. And it’s only an issue with the front.

 

[Hitman0002]

I have a feeling I see the issue, waiting to here back with your responses.

 

[Hitman0002]

Better picture.

 

[Tsnyder527]

Sorry to hyjack your thread, but do you know if the front and rear studs are the same? I know threads are the same just didn’t know if they are the same length and seat the same? Mine are stripped out and can only find one for the rear.

 

[Maligator]

Kinda hard to see but do you have hubcentric rings installed? Also are the bolts holes countersunk to accept the tapered lugnut? From the pics it looks like the wheel lug counter bore is flat at the bottom instead of having a countersunk bevel to accept the tapered lugnut

 

[Hitman0002]

I don’t have hubcentric rings. Should I? I don’t know? Looking at what I see I am thinking those might help but I have no clue. The lugs are counter sunk. I will double check when I get the chance the truck is now parked at my aunts. I had to use her loaner car.

 

[Hitman0002]

Come on need some help folks. Ideas something.

 

[blackbetty14]

Wheel isn’t centered probably or sitting flat. I can see in the pic that the upper left lug isn’t centered in the hole.

Did you remove the clips that the factory uses to hold the stock rotors on? When I did my rim swap I didn’t realize the aftermarket rims didn’t have a recessed area for the clips and the rim didn’t sit flat. With the wheel up in the air spin it and see if you can see if it’s off center.

Also your wheel studs should be 10.9 factory grade which is equivalent to grade 8. Only thing stronger is 12.9 or a set of ARPs.

Other reason is your bottoming out in the inside the lug (closed end) and the lug isn’t tightened on the wheel fully causing too much stress on the wheel stud till it snaps. But the 10.9 should be fine for what your doing. Maybe throw some open ended pigs on and verify the wheel is fully centered before tq down. Then spin it and look to see if it wobbles in any way.

 

[Maligator]

Wheel isn’t centered probably or sitting flat. I can see in the pic that the upper left lug isn’t centered in the hole.

Did you remove the clips that the factory uses to hold the stock rotors on? When I did my rim swap I didn’t realize the aftermarket rims didn’t have a recessed area for the clips and the rim didn’t sit flat. With the wheel up in the air spin it and see if you can see if it’s off center.

Also your wheel studs should be 10.9 factory grade which is equivalent to grade 8. Only thing stronger is 12.9 or a set of ARPs.

Other reason is your bottoming out in the inside the lug (closed end) and the lug isn’t tightened on the wheel fully causing too much stress on the wheel stud till it snaps. But the 10.9 should be fine for what your doing. Maybe throw some open ended pigs on and verify the wheel is fully centered before tq down. Then spin it and look to see if it wobbles in any way.

I would invest in some hubcentric rings, I'm a pretty firm believer of them. Blackbettys suggestion of the lug nuts is a good one, you could be bottoming out in those nuts. I'd verify the thread in there is deep enough or try open ended lugs. Somethings going on bc you shouldn't be going through studs at a cyclic rate

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[DavidN]

Definitely go hubcentric!
Otherwise all the weight and stress to keep the wheel exactly centered is on the studs alone. Every major bump/pothole will put extreme stress on the lugs which could result in snapping them.

 

[rstang98]

That sucks