Camper Cap Questions (from a newbie)

[PlainPractical]

Hello all! I 'm considering a cap for my 2016 1500 Express with Crew cab and 5'5" bed. This was my first pickup (drove nothing but vans for most of my life and liked the convenience). I put a Peragon cover on it (along with a bedrug) when I got it, and while convenient, it limits the height of the things I can put in (with the cover closed) and lets in a bit of water back at the tailgate. Now that the truck is coming off lease and I know I will be keeping it, I decided to look into a cap (and try to sell the Peragon). A.R.E seems to make decent caps. I pM'ed someone here with questions, but decided to post a thread, since some of the answers might benefit others:

1) I know nothing is water tight, so how much water should I expect in the bed when it rains (or when I drive in the rain), and does it tend to just accumulate in one or two spots? My Peragon mostly drips in at the two rear corners (it does not cover the tail, so water is tempted to seep in, and with the bedrug, once water comes in, it soaks in)

2) Will I have to remove the trim on the bed top edges? If so, does it leave things open for water to get in?

3) Any real effects on gas milage with cap (level with cab) vs cover vs nothing? My commutes alternate between 320 miles and 12 miles, so speeds vary?

4) While I mostly am throwing things in like bags and boxes, I occasionally carry building materials - 8 foot 2x4's and things like that - and leave the tailgate down while I'm driving. Is this a problem with a cap, and does it stress the cap out in any way (i.e. when driving, is the air trying to "pull" the cap off). Also, if I just want to throw some long stuff into the bed, and leave it hanging out with the tailgate up, can I run with the back cap window open, or is that a total no-no?

4a) Any opinions on getting a rack for on top of the cap? In my mind, I imagine the cap to be a bit weak and flimsy - so not able to support much on it's roof. Am I way off? For example, would you put a 40' extension ladder on a rack on a cap?

5) Opinions on side slider windows (vs fixed)? Assuming some water gets in, I'll need some way for it to evaporate out (or is this not a problem?). The cap I quoted from ARE had solid glass on sides (which I thought looked cleaner) but I have concerns of zero air circulation. I guess I can open the front window...which raises the question of "if I run with the front window open on the cap, does that cause any problems with cap trying to "lift""?

6) I did some research and A.R.E. seems to make the best cap for my needs. They quoted me $2400 (for a Z series) and $1700 for a simpler more tradional look cap - framed windows. Any other suggestions or opinions? I can't go with a canvas soft top - I sometimes travel to places where kids would slice it up, just for the thrill of damaging something ("Welcome to New York, sidearm optional")

If mods would rather I bust these up into seperate threads, let me know (I thought all info in one place was easier to digest).

Thanks in advance for the advice!

 

[17Delmonico]

I had an ARE on my Dakota for 17 years. I have a LEER cap now. They both seem about the same (high) quality.
Assuming you don't actually drive underwater, the cap should be watertight. You should not be expecting any water in the bed as long as the windows are all closed.
The rail trim is still on my bed with the cap on, and it was installed professionally.
I don't think you'll notice a significant change in mpg with or without the cap.
Having the tailgate down won't stress the cap. It's fully supported by the bed sides. I keep some rope in the truck just to tie down the cap door when I am carrying big stuff. I don't like it bouncing in the wind. I don't strap it down or anything, just loop some rope from the bed tie-downs to the handle.
I don't have a rack for the top of my cap, so I can't answer that one. They are absolutely designed for racks, though. They are very strong, and could easily support a 40' ladder.
I have sliding side windows with screens on them. I usually leave them closed, but I like having the option in case it's super hot in the summer.
Price sounds about right.

 

[PlainPractical]

17Delmonico - Thanks for all the info. Great to hear about the no water leaks. Very surprised to find out racks will hold bit of weight (I assumed the cap would be a bit wiggley). Is the main advantage of the "professional installation" the electrical for the brake light and dome light? I'm assuming after that, it's as simple as lowering it onto the bed and putting the clamps on?

 

[17Delmonico]

I had both of my caps installed by the dealer. After that, I removed my old cap once in a while by myself (it's easier with two people, but it's possible with one). 6 clamps, and walk it off. I haven't had my new cap long enough to need to take it off. I'm also 18 years older and "wiser", so I won't be doing it myself anymore... The dealer will run the wiring for any lights you have in the cap.

This is LEER's roof rack system for their fiberglass caps:
http://www.leer.com/?d=19&dt=120

The Thule Tracker II Roof Rack System is the industry's leading sports and accessory rack, and it's exclusively available as a factory installation from LEER. With adaptable, functional square tube bars, aerodynamic uprights, security locks and top tracks, the Tracker II is the perfect base system for transporting everything from skis to bikes, and luggage to construction materials. The Tracker II is included as a standard component of LEER Special Edition Packages, and accepts virtually every genuine Thule Roof Rack Accessory.

When factory-installed on a LEER Model 100XQ, 100XL, 100XR, 100R, 100RCC, 180, 180CC, or 122, the Thule AeroBlade and Tracker II Roof Rack systems have a maximum load capacity of 165 lbs. There are other critical factors when safely carrying and securing loads to your roof rack and dash - always refer to the owner's manual provided with your Thule roof rack prior to use.

40' ladders are in the 100lb range, so you have plenty of extra capacity.

 

[JimGregory]

I would search craiglist etc for a used cap. You dont HAVE to color match. White goes with anything for instance. Also I had a black cap on a grey truck. And a white cap on a grey truck. Looked fine. Blue cap on a red truck not so much.
I never paid more then a few hundred bucks for clean fiberglass caps with windows. One had sliding windows and one had tip out windows. Tip out were great.
They were all water tight. I had bolted racks to the roof as well. I would not go crazy with the weight though. It's all up to the clamps holding the thing on.
There are other racks that go on top of the bed rails and the cap goes over them. More capacity I reckon.

 

[gofishn]

Caps are not water proof. you might get some water,at the very rear edges, in a heavy buty, all day type of rain.
Have had caps for decades, starting with my 1979 F0250.
Biggest help is a tailgate seal around teh tailgate. closes things up nicely.

Have never been a fan of sliding rear window anything. Allows junk from the bed to fly in the truck when it is open.
I much prefer a solid rear window. makes cleanig off ice much easier.

recommend you get a cap lock that locks unlocks with your power locks.

Pretty much all the big boys make great caps. I like A.R.E> but Leer is top notch too.

I prefer a cap that has the same siz and width windows in the cap as the truck cab. makes thins look more streamlined.

 

[DonkeyFluffer]

Hello all! I 'm considering a cap for my 2016 1500 Express with Crew cab and 5'5" bed. This was my first pickup (drove nothing but vans for most of my life and liked the convenience). I put a Peragon cover on it (along with a bedrug) when I got it, and while convenient, it limits the height of the things I can put in (with the cover closed) and lets in a bit of water back at the tailgate. Now that the truck is coming off lease and I know I will be keeping it, I decided to look into a cap (and try to sell the Peragon). A.R.E seems to make decent caps. I pM'ed someone here with questions, but decided to post a thread, since some of the answers might benefit others:

1) I know nothing is water tight, so how much water should I expect in the bed when it rains (or when I drive in the rain), and does it tend to just accumulate in one or two spots? My Peragon mostly drips in at the two rear corners (it does not cover the tail, so water is tempted to seep in, and with the bedrug, once water comes in, it soaks in)

I get no water intrusion with my Leer 100XR

2) Will I have to remove the trim on the bed top edges? If so, does it leave things open for water to get in?

Nope, and my edges are linex'd. No leaks

3) Any real effects on gas milage with cap (level with cab) vs cover vs nothing? My commutes alternate between 320 miles and 12 miles, so speeds vary?

After 2 months I've detected no difference highway or city

4) While I mostly am throwing things in like bags and boxes, I occasionally carry building materials - 8 foot 2x4's and things like that - and leave the tailgate down while I'm driving. Is this a problem with a cap, and does it stress the cap out in any way (i.e. when driving, is the air trying to "pull" the cap off). Also, if I just want to throw some long stuff into the bed, and leave it hanging out with the tailgate up, can I run with the back cap window open, or is that a total no-no?

I do the same with the tailgate down and cap closed (no wind issues) but haven't tried cap open, tailgate closed

4a) Any opinions on getting a rack for on top of the cap? In my mind, I imagine the cap to be a bit weak and flimsy - so not able to support much on it's roof. Am I way off? For example, would you put a 40' extension ladder on a rack on a cap?

I have the same Thule rack referenced above. I'd put a ladder on it. Given a choice, I'd get the Yakima over the Thule (I've owned both) but only because the fairing on the Yakima doesn't move in the wind while the Thule flaps and, so far, I haven't been able to get it to stop.

5) Opinions on side slider windows (vs fixed)? Assuming some water gets in, I'll need some way for it to evaporate out (or is this not a problem?). The cap I quoted from ARE had solid glass on sides (which I thought looked cleaner) but I have concerns of zero air circulation. I guess I can open the front window...which raises the question of "if I run with the front window open on the cap, does that cause any problems with cap trying to "lift""?

I have slider sides, the flush windows don't provide enough airflow in my opinion, but they do look nicer. I did get the removable slider front window. Easier to clean.

6) I did some research and A.R.E. seems to make the best cap for my needs. They quoted me $2400 (for a Z series) and $1700 for a simpler more tradional look cap - framed windows. Any other suggestions or opinions? I can't go with a canvas soft top - I sometimes travel to places where kids would slice it up, just for the thrill of damaging something ("Welcome to New York, sidearm optional")

With headliner (very nice), lights, triple 12V plugs, remote locking/unlocking, dog screens, thule rack AND Thule rails, and ceiling net, I paid $3149. This included install of all.



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[PlainPractical]

Donkey - thanks for all the info. Is a ceiling net just a bungie net you can stuff light stuff into?

 

[John Jensen]

I have to echo what's been said in all the above posts. My Leers have never leaked but the tailgate will leak if not sealed as gofishn describes.

In my area ARE and Leer seem to be the most popular with ARE slightly higher priced.

 

[Longhorn1500]

I have a Leer with the Thule rack on top. The dealer said it has a 300 pound capacity.

 

[PlainPractical]

Additional question (dog related) - I like the frameless window look, but the only way those windows open is to tilt out ("crank out"). My other option is to go with framed windows that slide.
I plan put a dog in the back. Anyone with experience if the crank out windows give enough ventilation to the back? I am thinking in the summer it will get a bit hot back there, so if there is a dramatic difference between sliders and crank outs, I would want to know before I went for crank outs. Also, I have heard "you can't run with the crank outs open" (I guess the assumption is they might break?) - but I'm guessing that is BS.

 

[PlainPractical]

For those reading this thread (much later...), I went with the Leer 100XR with the liner (to match the bedrug bedliner). I did not get the remote locking (it was a huge upcharge on the XR), but I do not miss it at all - so far. I think the cap looks good, and I really like that I can keep things dry in there. True, no sooner did I get it, than I needed to load up a bunch of 4' wide x 7' high bookcases - but that's just my luck...
I got the cap from "Leer Factory Outlet" in Pennsylvania- you order it same as at any other place, but it "ships" a bit faster since the factory is next door. No factory "seconds" and the install took about an hour. Three guys run the place - at least two of them had a bit of grey in their beards, so you know your getting a decent job (yeah...that's an age biased comment...sorry to those I triggered with my microaggression...). I had a dealer 12 miles from me, and I drove 4 1/2 hrs to go to these guys - great rep, better prices than local (by a little bit), and friendly. Store has LOTS of toys and add-ons for trucks. I ordered the cap with roof tracks, and thought I had rails that would work. Should have just bought the cross bars when I was there...

 

[avantiguy]

ARE Z-series on my 14. There are no leaks from the cap but you'll get some water through the truck tailgate sides unless it's sealed.

The roof is double layered for strength and to allow screws to hang things. I did install the power lock that locks with the tailgate and truck doors. A must in my book.

A sliding, fold down window would be nice. My cap is on it's third truck, I bought it used and it had been on two others previously.

I painted it to match but no evidence of any issues in spite of the number of owners.

I believe it weighs about 200 lbs and the mileage was the same before and after installation as close as I can tell.

 

[John Jensen]

I went with the Leer 100XR with the liner (to match the bedrug bedliner).

Good decision. Same model as mine. I recommend that you seal the tailgate to preclude any dust or water leakage into the bed. I have used this tape on my Ford F350 and my Ram and it works!
https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Tailgate-Seal-Taper-10ft/dp/B00IPQWXZQ

 

[John Jensen]

I went with the Leer 100XR with the liner (to match the bedrug bedliner).

Good decision. Same model as mine. I recommend that you seal the tailgate to preclude any dust or water leakage into the bed. I have used this tape on my Ford F350 and my Ram and it works!

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Tailgate-Seal-Taper-10ft/dp/B00IPQWXZQ

 

[Marine Les]

The ARE has a much better hinge on their z series than all others. No leaks on mine and you want the fold down front window so you can clean the glass and the sliding side windows suck compared to the crank out ones. ARE is more money but I think they are worth it. Used ones will save a lot of money but you need to install it correctly to prevent leaks. MPG might drop a little in city stop and go because of the extra weight but I don't see it on the highway. Truck rides nicer and is quieter with my carpeted bed and cap.