Gunk in radiator cap

[Ryan J]

I got this gunk in my radiator cap. Im guessing mixed coolants. Whats the best procedure to clean it out?

I jist had cam and lifters done spring of '22. O had several issies with the mechanic and my truck so i drained the radiator because i figured he only put water in it. It did have an orange tint but looked more watery to me. I think i put in whatever is recommended but i cant remember. I did that about a year ago and i havent had any issues yet. No overheating or anything. Now i just decided to look in the radiator and i saw this.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

Somehow a different type of A/F was mixed into your system, your model year called for HOAT type antifreeze, probably OAT was put into your system, you need to do a complete flush and put the specified coolant in your system, what's in your owner's manual, use concentrated A/F and mix 50/50 with distilled water.

 

[Ryan J]

I have to make a 200 mile trip here in a hour or so, think im going to add some distilled water to the coolant, radiator looks low and resovoir is empty. I plan doing a flush sometime this week.

 

[Burla]

Flush wont help, flushes (water) and coolants do not contain detergents, meaning you will have fresh coolant but also slime still in system. The best thing to do is run 32 ounces rmi 25 through it for 500 miles, then do your flush with distilled water. It is sad how stupid some mechanics can be with coolants. Whatever slime is in the system will get trapped in the over flow, just take a wet dry vac or similar and vac it clean. Once a system is shot like this, I might consider moving to universal coolant such as peak global life. I like using oem coolant until a system is blown, once it's blown for whatever reason it will be hard to get back to fresh. Then I would also move to a 3 year interval at most. Get a new mechanic, my guess he used a dex clone which is about as bad as adding sand to hoat.

 

[Ryan J]

Yeah i plan doing a better flush than just adding to it. Im just not able to right now and im bout to make 200 mile trip home. I added a little less than half a gallon of distilled water just to maybe help, the overflow hose has a blockage in it also. Luckily its 45 degrees out. I havent broke 200 on coolant temp. I ditched that mechanic right after he did the cam and lifter job. I had several issues after i got my truck back to the point i took it back, showed him all the issues. He said he would make it right and i told him no thanks, youve cost me enough allready. I do alor of my own work, oil, brakes, ac compressor, belt for what its worth, charged my own ac as im a licensed hvac tech, exhauat manifold bolts and im sure ive left a few things out over the last 8yrs but the cam and lifters was to big of a job for me. But i will get the rmi-25. Do i need the full 32oz?

 

[Curmudgeon]

Over a year ago my Mopar dealer did a coolant change or flush.
Then about a month ago my new favorite auto shop noticed the coolant reservoir was near empty and added coolant.
Here is a pic prior to the reservoir fill but still about a year after the flush. I just checked it right now and it still looks the same.

 

[Burla]

29 bucks

Once open the stuff doesnt store well. Most of the time it stores well until you open it. For dex damage I would want to use a heavy dose, there is no penalty for adding more. Up to you on that.

 

[Wild one]

Yeah i plan doing a better flush than just adding to it. Im just not able to right now and im bout to make 200 mile trip home. I added a little less than half a gallon of distilled water just to maybe help, the overflow hose has a blockage in it also. Luckily its 45 degrees out. I havent broke 200 on coolant temp. I ditched that mechanic right after he did the cam and lifter job. I had several issues after i got my truck back to the point i took it back, showed him all the issues. He said he would make it right and i told him no thanks, youve cost me enough allready. I do alor of my own work, oil, brakes, ac compressor, belt for what its worth, charged my own ac as im a licensed hvac tech, exhauat manifold bolts and im sure ive left a few things out over the last 8yrs but the cam and lifters was to big of a job for me. But i will get the rmi-25. Do i need the full 32oz?

I've done the RMI on my 300C basically twice now. The first time i added about 10 oz's ,and when i cleaned out the coolant tank,i was amazed at how much casting sand the RMI had loosened up,i put it all back together and added the rest of the bottle,and today i cleaned it again,and just had slime. Both times i did it,were just before making a 500 mile trip. All told i've added 32 oz's to the system
I have to admit Burla is onto something,as i'd never really heard of RMI until he started mentioning it,and it does appear to work pretty good at cleaning up cooling systems

 

[Ryan J]

Yeah i plan to do the RMI. Just gotta get some ordered.

 

[Ryan J]

29 bucks

Once open the stuff doesnt store well. Most of the time it stores well until you open it. For dex damage I would want to use a heavy dose, there is no penalty for adding more. Up to you on that.

Where do you see it for 29 bucks? I looked for a few minutes and found 32oz for $80 on amazon

 

[Ryan J]

Where do you see it for 29 bucks? I looked for a few minutes and found 32oz for $80 on amazon

Ohh i found it. I will get some ordered for sure

 

[Wild one]

Where do you see it for 29 bucks? I looked for a few minutes and found 32oz for $80 on amazon

Damn i can buy it cheaper on Canuck Amazon.

https://www.amazon.ca/RMI-25-Cooling-System-Treatment-Bottles/dp/B004JVCJUU/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=200X24393HRNJ&keywords=rmi-25+cooling+system+treatment&qid=1704165566&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=RMI-25+Cooling+System+Treatment+%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-1

 

[Wild one]

https://www.amazon.com/RMI-25-Cooling-System-Treatment-Bottles/dp/B004JVCJUU/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=200X24393HRNJ&keywords=rmi-25+cooling+system+treatment&qid=1704165566&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=RMI-25+Cooling+System+Treatment+%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-1

 

[GTyankee]

MOPAR Brand HOAT Coolant
was made by Valvoline
The product name is Zerex G05 Antifreeze/Coolant

 

[Burla]

that link still shows open.

do you have prime? maybe hides from prime members, I see it I dont have prime.

I think they have always marketed their stuff more to radiator shops/.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Flush wont help, flushes (water) and coolants do not contain detergents, meaning you will have fresh coolant but also slime still in system. The best thing to do is run 32 ounces rmi 25 through it for 500 miles, then do your flush with distilled water. It is sad how stupid some mechanics can be with coolants. Whatever slime is in the system will get trapped in the over flow, just take a wet dry vac or similar and vac it clean. Once a system is shot like this, I might consider moving to universal coolant such as peak global life. I like using oem coolant until a system is blown, once it's blown for whatever reason it will be hard to get back to fresh. Then I would also move to a 3 year interval at most. Get a new mechanic, my guess he used a dex clone which is about as bad as adding sand to hoat.

I looked at RMI, and it looks pretty good. I have successfully used Oxalic acid in the past, but it is very toxic and requires massive neutralizing flushes with Arm & Hammer, and many gallons of clean water afterwards to prevent acid damage to radiator, heater core, head gasket, etc.
The RMI looks much better!

 

[Burla]

Yeah rmi is non toxic, which is cool. They use distributors so it was never available widespread, which is tragic. But it is so effective I can imagine how many times radiator shops charged good money for a special "treatment" and literally fixed the issue with this stuff. It is getting harder and harder to find, I'd bet most local radiator shops either have this on hand or can get it.
Some of the pricing out there is stupid, that 80 dollar deal for 4 32 ounces, it doesnt get any better then that. A lot of places are like 50 bucks for 8 ounces, lol.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Yeah rmi is non toxic, which is cool. They use distributors so it was never available widespread, which is tragic. But it is so effective I can imagine how many times radiator shops charged good money for a special "treatment" and literally fixed the issue with this stuff. It is getting harder and harder to find, I'd bet most local radiator shops either have this on hand or can get it.
Some of the pricing out there is stupid, that 80 dollar deal for 4 32 ounces, it doesnt get any better then that. A lot of places are like 50 bucks for 8 ounces, lol.

My O'Reilly's had it when I called them this AM.

 

[TorqueWagon]

I got this gunk in my radiator cap. Im guessing mixed coolants. Whats the best procedure to clean it out?

I jist had cam and lifters done spring of '22. O had several issies with the mechanic and my truck so i drained the radiator because i figured he only put water in it. It did have an orange tint but looked more watery to me. I think i put in whatever is recommended but i cant remember. I did that about a year ago and i havent had any issues yet. No overheating or anything. Now i just decided to look in the radiator and i saw this.

I would suggest you talk to a professional radiator shop that does nothing but radiators and get their recommendation for a cleaning using a powered cleaning machine/ system and the correct cleaning fluids etcetera. Even if you do it yourself it would be smart to talk to somebody who's purely in the business of radiators. Knowledge is power.

 

[KansasArt]

Are there radiator shops in your area? There used to be 2 in my area, have since closed 15+ years ago. The days of hot tanking them and soldering them to repair leaks are long gone.