Cooland leak

[Jeanke]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post on this wonderful forum so please be gentil.

English is not my native language, I do my best but feel free to correct me.

I'm Jean and I live on a small Caribbean island. I stand for the purchase of a Dodge Ram 1997 single cab with the 5.9 v8.

There is a water leak and I am unable to locate it until just now. It does not come from the water pump, by pass hose, thermostat, that's all checked. It seems to be coming from behind the engine mount on the drivers side and dropping one fairly large drop every 10 seconds.

What is the possibility that a head gasket leak can be so big that it drips like this? From what I read there is behind the engine mount a screw, it may be there along that is leaks?

Please give your advice!

regards,

jean

 

[Jeanke]

Some additional information, the truck has 88,000 miles and the cooling system is filled with water by the previous owner, when I look at the temperature gauge, it seems that the thermostat is out.

 

[MagSport]

Hey jean welcome to the forum,
from what I understand there is a freeze plug right behind the motor mounts. Could that be what's leaking?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jeanke]

Hello MagSport,

Thank you for your answer! I read a lot tonight and learned that it will indeed be the freeze plug behind the engine mount.

I do not know what to do, valve cover leaks, sump leakage, no thermostat, radiator replacement, car needs to be repainted ...

Gearbox has just received an overhaul, $ 2,900

The truck for the rest drives fine.. Cars are expensive on the island. This truck is $ 3,000 for requested. Would the truck be worth it?

It's not my truck yet, I'm looking to buy.

 

[Merc225hp]

Welcome to RF

Freeze plugs are cheap and the one you need to change is easier than some of the other ones. Valve cover gaskets also cheap easy to change out. Oil pan gasket (sump leakage?) about 2 hrs work. Rad also easy to change out but not so cheap.

Is it a 4wd or 2wd? These trucks like gas not an economy rig at all but they are very tough.

 

[Jeanke]

Thank you for the welcome.

It is a 2wd and almost no rust what is very unusual for here.

Indeed, oil pan leakage.

They are indeed all small things, but the question is, what's next.

The strange thing is that the engine runs beautifully, starts with a tap of the key. I'm not a mechanic but have no fear to try things themselves if they are not too difficult or technically

The owner has had tremendous problems with the gearbox. It is completely re-build only question is how. The mechanics are not here as they are on the mainland. I know that the parts have already cost $ 1,500.

The car switched good and flexible, only between the second and the third stage, the rpm is a fraction of a second up. The oil is nice and clear red.

If I repair these defects, are these engines are a bit bullet proof? Or they have a knowledge of head gasket?

 

[Merc225hp]

Ok can you get a compression test done on it before you buy it?

Please read; http://www.ramforum.com/f61/plenum_gasket_what_where_what_should_i_do_about_*info*-37635/

Please download its the 2001 FSM but most driveline info will be the same. http://www.ramforum.com/f77/2nd_gen_service_manual-986/

Head gaskets are not a common thing on these motors to go, cracked valve seats and under them yes. Not a 100% sure but you might have to lift the front of the motor to change the oil pan gasket on a 2wd, just more time not hard to do.

These trucks are no different than any other truck they have there problems once you get past them they are a great truck. The 360LA updated to the 360 Magnum motors have been around for a very long time, proven motor.

 

[Jeanke]

A compression test is difficult over here. On the other hand, there are no signs of a bad compression, starts great, runs great, no blue, black or white. Idles perfect.

I have read the treads of the planum gasket, no signs that this gasket would be bad.

Thank you for the link to the service manual.

Are there signs for cracked valve seats?

The island where I stay is only 40km wide so the distance that this truck would drive is maximum 3000 kilometers per year.

Thank you so much for your input.

 

[Jeanke]

I can not open the manual? Computer can not find it he says.

 

[Merc225hp]

A compression test is difficult over here. On the other hand, there are no signs of a bad compression, starts great, runs great, no blue, black or white. Idles perfect.

I have read the treads of the planum gasket, no signs that this gasket would be bad.

Thank you for the link to the service manual.

Are there signs for cracked valve seats?

The island where I stay is only 40km wide so the distance that this truck would drive is maximum 3000 kilometers per year.

Thank you so much for your input.

I have a standard rule before I buy any used truck/car and thats a comp test and a mech oil psi test, no test no buy. I don't care that it runs smooth I still want these tests done. You can most likely buy a comp test kit online for under $50 good tool to have in the tool box and the test is not hard to do.

A comp test is one way to find the cracked valve seats/heads and the loss of a small amount of antifreeze/coolant is one other, a engine miss on one jug or more.

The parts manual is there as well.

No problem Sir glad to be of some help.

 

[Jeanke]

ok, I'll see where I can get a compression test.

Meanwhile, it was possible to open the manual, I have some reading to do

 

[Merc225hp]

I don't want/like to see anybody lose their cash on a used rig, this is one test to protect your cash. It could be great and this will verify or not and give you a baseline to go from later on down the road. Yes I am adamant about this

Good, I have the 95 & 96 manuals, I am going to add a link over the weekend so people can get those as well.

 

[Jeanke]

And I greatly appreciate your input sir!

In the worst case, do you have an idea what a reconditioned engine cost? The problem is that when the motor should be machined this can not be done here.

I know I can buy in America a much better car for this amount, however, It costs $ 4,000 on transportation. Those are many parts to buy for this car.

 

[Merc225hp]

A good rebuilt long-block runs about $1500-$2000. A good set of heads will cost about $600 from Odessa on Ebay (look for the thick cast heads it must state this in the ad). If you need help getting smaller parts send me a pm and I will see if I can help you get them.

 

[Jeanke]

Hello everyone,

Sorry to be so long you did not hear from me, some personal problems.

First and foremost, thank you for the offer Merc225hp!


I have the truck still with me. I made a deal with the seller, $ 2,500, wich is really not a lot of money for the island, because you can not buy a Suzuki Samurai for that amount of money!

Today I replaced the oil filter and the oil. Also I have been flushing the cooling system.

No thermostat was in the engine, so I bought a new one and I wanted to place it in. When removing the hose and that piece of metal pipe I saw that it was already repaired, welded. Ok, cleaned and then cleaning the engine block itself.

I saw that the flange where the thermostat is mounted on the side and the engine block was corroded and that the flange was away in 2 places.

Gasket mounted, liquid gasket on the block and everything mounted. However, there was spraying cooling water on those two spots out.

And now? End of story? New intake manifold? Are there any tips to resolve this?

I must say that I'm sick of this, if there are no tips I think that a new intake manifold will be a very expensive business.

Is this car actually still worth restauring? He drives so blessed ...

Please help me out...


A heartbroken Jeanke.

 

[Jeanke]

I do wonder, does the steel sleeve seal off on the flange which is corroded or also on the thermostat itself?

This is a picture pipe, which comes on top of the thermostat.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3582843&cc=1095746

What I do see in this new tube, it has a flange where the thermostat fits into, the tube I have does not. Could that be the cause with their welding they did? But still remaining the two wells on the flange of the intake manifold.

 

[Merc225hp]

The stat plays a part in the sealing but more on the intake side. The thermostat goes in the intake first, then the gasket then the thermostat housing gets bolted down to the intake. Use a thin film of black rtv on both sides of the gasket before you set it in place. If the intake has corroded around the stat area you could build that area up with say JB Weld and then file it down flat. I can get you a used intake thats not hard at all let me know.

 

[Jeanke]

Thank you for your reply!

The corrosion is really at the thinnest part of the ridge, direction of the engine, not to the radiator side.

I think I made a few mistakes. I must say that this is my first experience working on a car.

The first mistake I made is that I've used only on one side the rtv.

The second mistake, I think, I replaced the thermostat with the air conditioner and alternator in place. Which made it very difficult to clean the surface of the intake side. The thermostat also sat out Slightly above the ridge. There has been not thermostat in there for years and the cooling system was filled with water. It's probably not unthincable that at the seat of the thermostat there islime build up, this could be why the thermostat is not sitting deep enough. The water gushed really out.

I then unplugged the thermostat, black RTV on the gasket and put the tube securely, no leak any more.

Would it be better to remo the bracket with alternator and air conditioning pump so that I can properly clean the surface, RTV along both sides of the gasket and assemble everything again?

The pipe which goes to heating is half rotten, no longer water tight, there was even no seal around, only one or other sealant.

I did not know that metal can be recovered with something like this, thank you for the tip.

I need to order the tube and the other water pipe, unfortunately something like this takes about 2 weeks ...


So if I understand it, do not give up? This is not really a big problem?

In the worst case, which would cost an intake?

Thanks!

 

[Merc225hp]

No don't give up you can do this. We need to get you the thermostat housing (metal pipe) I can most likely have you a used one in the morning maybe new if its in stock.

Removing the alt does make this much easier, the bracket can stay in place and so can the a/c pump, you have to be the judge here as you are the one working on it. Remember to unhook the battery before you remove the alt. Use a wire brush to remove the lime/calcium build up maybe a putty scraper if need but be nice with it no digging into the aluminum intake.

Edit: A used intake about $25 plus shipping.

 

[Jeanke]

Ok, thank you for the tips.

Just wait please for the tube, we have a Napa here, you never know they have it off the shelve... They had the thermostat.

Edit: 25$? wow, that opens options! Is that for the fuel injection I have? Ok, this has made my evening. First of all I will try it with this one, if no succes I will greatly take your offer. Thank you!