Detroit Tru Trac for 2011+ ZF

[VolsRam]

Nothing for the front as of yet. Other than swapping the whole assy.

Why create a 4x4 vehicle that doesn't give an option to regear the front? That annoys me. I know on vehicles with a front straight axle, you have to gear it the same as the rear to use 4 wheel drive. How does the IFS work? Is there a gear that you can use in the rear that will still work with the front?

 

[BlackRamHemi]

Its not the manufacturers responsibility to provide you with lower gears,
THAT's what the aftermarket exists for.

Gear makers simply have not done enough R&D work to provide ZF compatible components yet.

It's just like tuning doesn't come out for new models for up to a year after a new PCM comes out.

Again, IFS has noting to do with the differential/gears.

Its still a pumpkin that contains the same components as a solid front axle
the axle shafts come out both sides of the diff as a CV shafts instead of straight axles, that is all.

...and you Still have to run the exact same ratio front and rear to avoid blowing up your transfer case

 

[VolsRam]

Well crap. So does that mean there is a 3.92 and 4.10 mopar gear set for the front? I've never done a gear swap before, so everything is new to me. Although I did to a lot of research for my 2012 Wrangler that I had with D30 and D44.

 

[BlackRamHemi]

Well crap. So does that mean there is a 3.92 and 4.10 mopar gear set for the front? I've never done a gear swap before, so everything is new to me. Although I did to a lot of research for my 2012 Wrangler that I had with D30 and D44.

Your only option (for Mopar parts) is a 3.92 swap

(Ram never made a 4WD R/T LOL!) So 4.10's are limited to 2WD Rams


FYI, the difference between 3.92's and 4.10's is only about 100 rpm at 60 MPH

 

[VolsRam]

Haha good point. It will be some time before I go with lift and tires, so hopefully by that time a 4.56 will be available for the 2013s. Thanks for the help!

 

[VolsRam]

What are y'all's thoughts on G2 Gears? I just did a quick search and found they offer the 4.56 for the 8.0 IFS front and Chrysler 9.25 rear.

 

[fasthemiram12]

What are y'all's thoughts on G2 Gears? I just did a quick search and found they offer the 4.56 for the 8.0 IFS front and Chrysler 9.25 rear.

Which you have neither of....


Your only option for the front is to swap to an older 06-11 Front IFS and then Either Machine the rear Carrier or swap to a DTT and add/replace the Drivers Side Axle.

 

[VolsRam]

Well that's a bunch of crap. I'm gonna need these aftermarket companies to get rolling on gears for these stupid axles.

 

[fasthemiram12]

Someone sticky this thread...

 

[mcurry2885]

Hate to resurrect a thread, but it seems appropriate as I've read the whole thing and still have a question on the axle...

Ok, what's confusing me is the ZF axle, 68140297-AA. It says it's an OEM part for my truck, a 2013. So, what's different about this axle than my factory one? Does it get installed on the driver side in place of the one that's already there, or on the passenger side?

I guess i'm really looking for at least a basic walk through of the install process and what's being accomplished by this axle.

Michael

 

[shaftman_05]

Hate to resurrect a thread, but it seems appropriate as I've read the whole thing and still have a question on the axle...

Ok, what's confusing me is the ZF axle, 68140297-AA. It says it's an OEM part for my truck, a 2013. So, what's different about this axle than my factory one? Does it get installed on the driver side in place of the one that's already there, or on the passenger side?

I guess i'm really looking for at least a basic walk through of the install process and what's being accomplished by this axle.

Michael

This is answered in the very first post. You need a second one to replace the shorter shaft (passenger side I believe) when installing the DTT.

 

[mcurry2885]

This is answered in the very first post. You need a second one to replace the shorter shaft (passenger side I believe) when installing the DTT.

Ok, cool, but it actually doesn't say that the longer shaft is to replace the short shaft, just that one is needed...makes sense now.

Also, what about a non LSD carrier? Does all of this still hold true?

 

[shaftman_05]

This thread is to clear up some confusion and also to inform everyone on the gear/lsd options for 2011+ Rear Axles.

I just had a DTT and 4.10's installed in my 2012 Ram.
It was quite costly.... Roughly 1500.00
This is only for those that want to go all out race or serious 4x4'n

Here is what is needed:
1. 9.25 Ring and Pinion. Any ratio size you want, 4.10, 4.56 etc.
2. 9.25 Detroit Tru Trac. Install as normal.
3. 2011+ Ram (Drivers Side) ZF Axle Shaft (Longer Side) Part # 68140297-AA
4. Master Install Kit

The reason a long side shaft is need is because the OEM ZF LSD is offset while the 9.25 DTT or 9.25 LSD is not.

For those with 2011+ that just want to have 4.10 or 4.56 gears and already have a Factory LSD, all that is needed is to machine the OEM carrier for the older 9.25 bolt pattern and recess the holes.

Those that do not have an OEM LSD would obviously need to purchase one.


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>




Gear swap for Front IFS for 2012 and Up is not available.
The Ring gear is welded to the carrier and is not serviceable at this time.
Only option is to Swap to an older 8.0 IFS Assembly from a 06-11 Ram and then order gears accordingly.
Note: It is better to get whole assembly not just the chunk.
IFS, CV Axles, Diff bracket, Front Driveshaft etc.

Ok, cool, but it actually doesn't say that the longer shaft is to replace the short shaft, just that one is needed...makes sense now.

Also, what about a non LSD carrier? Does all of this still hold true?

No. You shouldn't need a longer shaft with non LSD rear end. As long as your installing the DTT

 

[mcurry2885]

No. You shouldn't need a longer shaft with non LSD rear end. As long as your installing the DTT

Sounds better every minute, thanks for the quick replies!...Now I can save $350 on an axle, and order it all from Moe's. My shopping cart is pretty full there right now and ready for checkout, if the wife says ok!

 

[shaftman_05]

Sounds better every minute, thanks for the quick replies!...Now I can save $350 on an axle, and order it all from Moe's. My shopping cart is pretty full there right now and ready for checkout, if the wife says ok!

Glad to hear I could help. I haven't personally done it just my understanding of the mechanics at work. Pays to be a master mechanic AND work for chrysler [emoji6]

 

[fasthemiram12]

No. You shouldn't need a longer shaft with non LSD rear end. As long as your installing the DTT

This is incorrect....

If your installing a 9.25 DTT in a ZF housing you need another long side (Drivers side) ZF axle shaft.

 

[shaftman_05]

This is incorrect....

If your installing a 9.25 DTT in a ZF housing you need another long side (Drivers side) ZF axle shaft.

I stand corrected. Should have pulled the part numbers right from the start.

Sounds better every minute, thanks for the quick replies!...Now I can save $350 on an axle, and order it all from Moe's. My shopping cart is pretty full there right now and ready for checkout, if the wife says ok!

I'm sorry I was wrong. You will need the longer shaft...
Part numbers are
Right: 68140296AA longer according to description.
Left: 68140297AA shorter according to description.
Apologies for false hope...

 

[Lawhand]

I wish i had money

 

[kg93]

has anyone in this thread done the swap for the 14? do any of the 06-11 front diffs come with 4.10s stock so i wouldnt have to swap those?

Also how easy is the bolt up?
final question is there any way i can figure out if my ring was bolted or welded, since i know some of the 14s were bolted. I dont feel like taking off my cover just to get disappointed

 

[Little Red]

do any of the 06-11 front diffs come with 4.10s stock so i wouldnt have to swap those?

I believe the only gear options for all 4wd 1500's (as you listed) are 3.55 and 3.92. A perk to this, tho, is you can have a shop put the gears into the diff, and they usually charge less for pre-uninstalled differentials.

Also how easy is the bolt up?

Since suspension lifts haven't changed much, I believe it's safe to say the front-end swap would be a straight forward unbolt the "old", bolt-in the "new" swap.

final question is there any way i can figure out if my ring was bolted or welded, since i know some of the 14s were bolted. I dont feel like taking off my cover just to get disappointed

You'd have to pull the cover and look.