Factory sub wiring

[Tk1292]

I recently upgraded my interior from a tradesman to a Laramie and when I had the carpet out I saw there was a factory wire for a subwoofer so naturally I grabbed one in the junk yard yesterday, I got it plugged in and there nothing coming out, wondering if it at a dead end or I need to look further into this. Thank you.

 

[brunzca]

I’d imagine unless you have the Alpine or HK amplified system, there’s no signal being sent to the sub, or definitely not enough to push it

 

[crash68]

The subwoofer is powered from the amplifier in the 9 speaker Alpine sound system. If your truck came with the standard 6 speaker system, there is no amplifier.
You would be further ahead to go with an aftermarket subwoofer like the Kicker Hideaway and possibly upgrade the radio to something aftermarket with wireless AndroidAuto/CarPlay built in.

 

[Brandon-w]

You want a sub the easiest way on a non factory sub truck is get a speaker signal to rca adapter (loc-2) and either run that into your amp or run it into a pre amp for more adjustability then from there to your actual amp. My truck came with a factory amp and I did the loc-2 rca off the sub feed then into two pre amps and then to my amps. It sounds deadly!

 

[Tk1292]

The subwoofer is powered from the amplifier in the 9 speaker Alpine sound system. If your truck came with the standard 6 speaker system, there is no amplifier.
You would be further ahead to go with an aftermarket subwoofer like the Kicker Hideaway and possibly upgrade the radio to something aftermarket with wireless AndroidAuto/CarPlay built in.

There’s a fuse already in my fuse box for amplifier, can I just add the amp in from the junk yard ? Or do I need to pull the whole dash harness and swap them ?

 

[crash68]

Or do I need to pull the whole dash harness and swap them ?

The wiring for the Alpine system is entirely different, there's multiple dash speakers, and in the headliner.
It's a lot of work for not a huge improvement in sound. Money and time would be better spent on better aftermarket speakers (and subwoofer if you want one).

 

[Brandon-w]

Crash is right. And the factory sub is... Lacking at best. Time money and effort are best spent on aftermarket.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

^^^ All This!!!

Aftermarket is the way to go!

I've got a pair of Audiomobile EVO 2410 (10") subs running at 2-ohm under my back seat bench in custom boxes that are also stuffed with poly-fil.

I have 2100W of total power being spread across these two subs and six Focal speakers (doors front & rear, and dash), and being filtered through a 5-farad DB digital power capacitor, and run off a Kenwood Excelon Reference head unit.

I also have an Odyssey H8 AGM battery, too.

 

[brunzca]

What everyone else said. Invest your time and money in aftermarket gear. I’ve got a helix V8 DSP/Amp pushing Karma mids in the dash, SB Acoustics tweets and SI TM65 Midbass in the front doors, and the rear headliners. + a Sundown SIA-1750 for 2 Dayton HO 10” subs in a ported box.

 

[Tk1292]

^^^ All This!!!

Aftermarket is the way to go!

I've got a pair of Audiomobile EVO 2410 (10") subs running at 2-ohm under my back seat bench in custom boxes that are also stuffed with poly-fil.

I have 2100W of total power being spread across these two subs and six Focal speakers (doors front & rear, and dash), and being filtered through a 5-farad DB digital power capacitor, and run off a Kenwood Excelon Reference head unit.

I also have an Odyssey H8 AGM battery, too.

How do you add the amp power to the door and dash speakers?

 

[CanuckRam1313]

How do you add the amp power to the door and dash speakers?

Through the wiring of the amp(s) via the head unit and its associated RCA's and harness connectors.

You're going to need the iDatalink Maestro interface module for everything to work as it should because of the CanBus systems our vehicle have.

I recommend you link up with Crutchfield for a complete end-to-end set up that will provide you with everything you need for a seamless installation experience.