Front Driveshaft CV Replacement

[RainMaker]

The rubber boot is torn up and I have play in the CV joint in the front driveshaft. I'm seeing rebuild kits for it but not having much luck determining how you swap this out.

Driveshaft R&R is in the manual but I don't see how to replace the joint. Anyone done this and know what's involved?

Thanks.

 

[05daytona]

You're better off just replacing the half-shaft. It's not worth rebuilding the joint. It can be done, but it's a pain in the ass.

 

[03MopaRamman]

Agree, But stay away from Rebuilds, IE. Cardone (w/Core Swap). Pay the extra 50-80 and Get a Mopar One with the HD Hardy Spicer Pot and Thick Rubber That won't rip easy like the Inferior ones used on the Rebuilds. There is no core on the Mopar ones.

You will need to order the small O ring that keeps water out (Rust/seizing) of the front diff where the spline goes into the Diff (slides over the shaft) as well as 2 c-Clips that should be changed (One at each end), regardless cause if it pops out when your driving you can ruin the outer boot (or worse). O-ring is about 2 Bucks and a Buck each for the Clips (Not included with the shaft). Mopar also does not provide the outer Hub Nut (Like the Rebuilds that Give a cheap thin one) but you can re-use yours, just add some Blue Thread-Locker and Torque to 185 Ft Lbs (Pretty Sure on that). If the Counter Guy can't find these two Items then drive to the next competant Dealership, Oh and ask for the Good Price!

 

[RainMaker]

Actually I'm talking about the front driveshaft, not halfshaft (those were replaced last year).

I ended up taking it to a truck shop. They claimed they had to pull the transfer case to get the driveshaft out (exhaust bolts too rusty to deal with) then couldn't get the parts for a week. I couldn't have it down that long so had them put it back together.

They did rebalance the rear driveshaft which made a hell of a difference in the vibration. $677.00 later I still have a bad CV joint in the front driveshaft.

I ordered a Dorman rebuild kit for it and will see if the exhaust really has to be dropped to get it out or not (or pull the transfer case back). They claimed there wasn't enough room to slip it off of the transfer case once unbolted from the front axle. If I can pull it quickly I'll video the process and go back and ask fro a lobor refund for the transfer case R&R.

Sound familiar to anyone?

 

[03MopaRamman]

I replaced my front driveshaft when I changed everything else in the front end, very easy 30 minute job in the driveway. Best is to pay the money and get a Mopar one.
Sorry for the confusion as obviously I can't read..good luck and sorry about any rust issues.

 

[RainMaker]

I ended up rebuilding what I had. Was able to get it out easily without pulling anything else. Took a while to cut the old CV joint off of the axle with a cutoff tool but was no big deal.

The truck shop really took advantage of the situation. This was Inland Truck Parts and Service. I know they have multiple locations. The work they did on the rear driveshaft was great but be careful taking your truck there. I never even got a phone call before they pulled the transfer case. Would have said no if they did.

 

[chedched]

For future reference, Instead of replacing your front (cv style) drive shaft find a driveline shop and have them custom make a driveshaft without the cv joint. The one in my Dakota went bad and I was able to buy a brand new shaft with u-joints front and rear for about $50 more than a standard new shaft. Sorry I didn't see this earlier...