HD Brakes/ Tailgate Not Locking

[OC455]

Ok guys,

Got the truck inspected and tires rotated on the dually. My friend that works at the shop said I need new rotors and pads before not too much longer.

He said go with OEM if I can and not drop big money on the higher end kits....from what I'm seeing, OEM pads and rotors cost as much as R1 Concepts or Powerstop products. Save up for one of the kits and not worry about it too much? Or save up and spend the money for the OEM and pay more....(OEM prices I checked at AllMoparParts....rear pads and rotors will be over $600)

Also seeing differences in the kits....ones says it's for 8x156mm bolt pattern and the other is 8x165mm bolt pattern for the rear.....bah!!!

Also my tailgate stopped locking as well. I hate having stupid things quit working that I expect too. Any quick things to check first? Anyone had an issue like this before?

 

[blue ghost]

Open the cover on the tailgate. You should be able to see what is wrong. There is a plastic piece there check that. It could be it just needs lubrication .

 

[olyelr]

My wagons turning 90k soon. Havnt looked at the brakes in a while but assuming they will be due soon. I think im gonna go aftermarket…maybe powerstop…not really sure why other than why not. Have some more researching to do on that.

Not sure on the tailgate not locking. Mine actually quit unlocking a bit ago, but has since started working again before i even gave it a look.

 

[2003F350]

I went 90k+ on my factory pads and rotors on my 'wagon. Did all 4 corners, just pads and calipers, rotors were fine.

I didn't purchase OEM, I went to the local CarQuest and bought through them - mostly because they had them in stock.

Did the job, had no issues with the brakes afterwards. Traded in the truck about 12k later and they were as solid as new.

The stock brakes are more than enough unless you're routinely running overweight or driving it like a race car. Even then, I haven't seen much real-world data on how much aftermarket 'performance' brakes actually improve over stock.

 

[buckeyexx]

Ok guys,

Got the truck inspected and tires rotated on the dually. My friend that works at the shop basically said I need new rotors and pads before not too much longer.

He basically said go with OEM if I can and not drop big money on the higher end kits....from what I'm seeing, OEM pads and rotors cost as much as R1 Concepts or Powerstop products. Save up for one of the kits and not worry about it too much? Or save up and spend the money for the OEM and pay more....(OEM prices I checked at AllMoparParts....rear pads and rotors will be over $600)

Also seeing differences in the kits....ones says it's for 8x156mm bolt pattern and the other is 8x165mm bolt pattern for the rear.....bah!!!

Also my tailgate stopped locking as well. I hate having stupid things quit working that I expect too. Any quick things to check first? Anyone had an issue like this before?

Powerstop kits are in my opinion and experience are a noticeable difference. I ran the drilled and slotted rotors with the z36 pads on my last 2500 and now I am running just the z36 pads on factory rotors on my power wagon. I can't say I notice a big difference between the rotors but the pads give you more bite and feel less fad when stopping.

 

[SniperDroid]

Powerstop kits are in my opinion and experience are a noticeable difference. I ran the drilled and slotted rotors with the z36 pads on my last 2500 and now I am running just the z36 pads on factory rotors on my power wagon. I can't say I notice a big difference between the rotors but the pads give you more bite and feel less fad when stopping.

Ditto's

 

[rzr6-4]

A lot of people have a habit of always changing rotors with the pads, which you really don't need to. I'd crawl under and see how they look, the rotors very well may be fine. Could save you a decent amount of $.

 

[Scottly]

IIRC, that year had a recall issue with the tailgate latch...It liked to unlatch with a mind of it's own. Maybe call the dealer and see if the recall was done on that truck.

 

[crash68]

Powerstop kits are in my opinion and experience are a noticeable difference.

Is this a comparison of new OEM brakes to new Power stop kits or were the OEMs worn down?
Any OEM brakes can overcome the braking coefficient of the tires, and if it's a matter of too much heat then your either racing or using the brakes too much while towing.

 

[SniperDroid]

Is this a comparison of new OEM brakes to new Power stop kits or were the OEMs worn down?
Any OEM brakes can overcome the braking coefficient of the tires, and if it's a matter of too much heat then your either racing or using the brakes too much while towing.

Changed to power stop at 10K, Vastly better braking.

 

[Jimmy07]

Also my tailgate stopped locking as well. I hate having stupid things quit working that I expect too. Any quick things to check first? Anyone had an issue like this before?

Your truck has passive entry front door handles, which also means your tailgate handle passively unlocks. If you have a key fob in your pocket or near the tailgate, the tailgate will always seem like it’s unlocked when you grab the handle to press the release switch. If you leave the key fobs away from the truck when the truck is locked, the tailgate handle switch won’t respond, and it will be locked.

 

[buckeyexx]

Is this a comparison of new OEM brakes to new Power stop kits or were the OEMs worn down?
Any OEM brakes can overcome the braking coefficient of the tires, and if it's a matter of too much heat then your either racing or using the brakes too much while towing.

On my first truck it was a warped rotor. Bought truck used and knew it was needed. The oem pads were still on the truck when I switched them out for the powerstop rotors and pads. The oems still had lots of life but I always do pads if doing rotors. On my second truck it still had the oems with life still in them but felt needed more braking so I just switched pads only this time and kept the oem rotors. I noticed a big differece in the way the truck responded in terms of braking.

 

[Tulecreeper]

Your truck has passive entry front door handles, which also means your tailgate handle passively unlocks. If you have a key fob in your pocket or near the tailgate, the tailgate will always seem like it’s unlocked when you grab the handle to press the release switch. If you leave the key fobs away from the truck when the truck is locked, the tailgate handle switch won’t respond, and it will be locked.

And if you're wanting to double check to make sure it's actually locked before you walk away, you can't unless you leave the fob in the house or something? Who came up with that farked up idea.

I have electronic lock only on my tailgate. I have noticed that if my truck is running and the driver's door is open I cannot lock the tailgate. I haven't experimented with truck off/door closed/truck running/door closed, etc., but I shouldn't have to stop my truck and/or close the door to get the fob to do what I want it to do.

 

[olyelr]

Your truck has passive entry front door handles, which also means your tailgate handle passively unlocks. If you have a key fob in your pocket or near the tailgate, the tailgate will always seem like it’s unlocked when you grab the handle to press the release switch. If you leave the key fobs away from the truck when the truck is locked, the tailgate handle switch won’t respond, and it will be locked.

My truck has passive entry on the front two doors, but i dont think it does on the tailgate…at least not that im aware of. Maybe its too old for that feature (2016).

 

[2003F350]

And if you're wanting to double check to make sure it's actually locked before you walk away, you can't unless you leave the fob in the house or something? Who came up with that farked up idea.

I have electronic lock only on my tailgate. I have noticed that if my truck is running and the driver's door is open I cannot lock the tailgate. I haven't experimented with truck off/door closed/truck running/door closed, etc., but I shouldn't have to stop my truck and/or close the door to get the fob to do what I want it to do.

It may not be doing what you 'want,' but it IS operating as designed. If you want to make sure it's latched, grab the top of the tailgate and give it a jerk - if mine isn't latched it'll swing open. But if you have passive entry on a newer truck (probably started with 2019, I don't know), then no, you can't check to see if it locked (it should have anyway) unless you get the key fob away from the truck. It goes off the location of the fob to the door you're trying to open, so perhaps if you set the keys on the hood, then walked to the back and tried to open the tailgate it would function properly? I can't say.

 

[Tulecreeper]

It may not be doing what you 'want,' but it IS operating as designed. If you want to make sure it's latched, grab the top of the tailgate and give it a jerk - if mine isn't latched it'll swing open. But if you have passive entry on a newer truck (probably started with 2019, I don't know), then no, you can't check to see if it locked (it should have anyway) unless you get the key fob away from the truck. It goes off the location of the fob to the door you're trying to open, so perhaps if you set the keys on the hood, then walked to the back and tried to open the tailgate it would function properly? I can't say.

It may be operating "as designed", but it isn't something that makes my life easier. Way too many nanny devices on this truck. I want to be able to back up to my barn, get out with the engine running and door open, pull that ****** 8-point buck out of the bed and drop him on the ground in front of the barn door, then close the tailgate and lock it before I get back in the truck and drive off to park it on the other side of the yard. I don't have "passive" anything on this truck. Manual door locks, manual windows - no options other than brake controller, spray-in bedliner, tow hooks, and 5th-wheel prep package because I didn't want a sports car.

I was actually surprised when I picked it up at the dealership and they handed me a key fob with a key on it. I thought, "WTH is the fob for?" Then I got in and sat for probably 3 minutes looking for the key slot before I realized that the key on the ring was only for my doors and that the fob was for a push-button ignition.

 

[OC455]

I just checked again and maybe I was in a rush, but I never noticed that tailgate unlocking as described with the keyless/passive entry. I never tried it without unlocking the truck or using the tailgate button from the fob first. I always thought I could hear the lock mechanism when I hit the lock on the fob itself....maybe I'm not as observant as I thought I am...

I tried opening it with the keyfob left in the house and it wouldn't open....so, again maybe it was me not realizing the tailgate had the keyless/passive entry function like the door handles.

Still checking pricing for rotors and pads. Maybe the Powerstop option will be the better purchase. Again, need to figure out what the differences are in the bilt patterns being listed....

 

[OC455]

The stock brakes are more than enough unless you're routinely running overweight or driving it like a race car.

Not either of those things...the prices for OEM are up there....

 

[2003F350]

It may be operating "as designed", but it isn't something that makes my life easier. Way too many nanny devices on this truck. I want to be able to back up to my barn, get out with the engine running and door open, pull that ****** 8-point buck out of the bed and drop him on the ground in front of the barn door, then close the tailgate and lock it before I get back in the truck and drive off to park it on the other side of the yard. I don't have "passive" anything on this truck. Manual door locks, manual windows - no options other than brake controller, spray-in bedliner, tow hooks, and 5th-wheel prep package because I didn't want a sports car.

I was actually surprised when I picked it up at the dealership and they handed me a key fob with a key on it. I thought, "WTH is the fob for?" Then I got in and sat for probably 3 minutes looking for the key slot before I realized that the key on the ring was only for my doors and that the fob was for a push-button ignition.

If you've got manual door locks and manual windows, you don't have a locking tailgate so far as I know.

And for what it's worth, when I close my tailgate with the truck running, get back in and put it in gear...it locks all doors and the tailgate. I don't have to fumble in my pocket to dig out a key to lock it. In other words...my life is a lot easier.

I get wishing things didn't change. I'd prefer to have a manual transmission in all my vehicles. But because of the push toward automated controls in everything, it's no longer an option and I don't really have a choice anymore. Complaining about it doesn't do anything.

 

[68PowerWagon]

A lot of people have a habit of always changing rotors with the pads, which you really don't need to. I'd crawl under and see how they look, the rotors very well may be fine. Could save you a decent amount of $.

This is because having your rotors turned is about the same amount of money as new rotors. Back in the day a guy could get his rotors turned 2 or 3 times before they were too thin. As much as I tow stuff it always seemed like I warped them after I got them turned. Maybe the guy turning them took too much off IDK. Which is another thing to consider. People don't do quality work like they used to. New pads are supposed to have a new mating surface. At the very least they need to be de-glazed before adding new pads.