I have this silly idea about Hemi exhaust manifold bolts.

[RLJ10X]

The stock cast iron manifolds are junk. No amount of machining, nor grade bolt ever going to change that fact.

Call Matt. Get a set of Shorty headers. Be done with it. That's what I did. It is the easiest, simplest, in the long run cheapest solution. Nobody is ever going to drill thru one of my engine heads.

 

[Fitz-0518]

For those of us who have the 6.4 2500 and have had 2 exhaust leak issues. We need to nail down exactly what bolts we need and how many. Thanks to Crackerjack we are on our way. I would like to see exactly what parts we need and where should we get them. I tried Summit, no help. Can Moe or Mat put together a complete parts kit for our 6.4 that I can take to my tech for change out. Also, when we put in the shorty headers on the 6.4 2500. Any modification or do they just slip in. I am hoping we can put together an accurate full spec order/sheet for the forum that other members can also use. It looks like we have the A team on this thread.

 

[BWL]

This is a little off but not much--IMHO----the VERY BEST "penetrating oil" is a mixture of ATF and acetone. Formula has been around forever. Laugh if you will, but it's been working for years and years.
Jay

Agree with this. Not sure why it works well, but it does. If you were going to change bolts as preventative its the back ones that usually break first. I'm still on my originals on the drivers side at 272k and they're still fine and have over 120k on the passenger since replacing the studs and manifold on that side so it's not a guaranteed failure.

 

[RLJ10X]

^Seems odd that a guy that had a failure, is telling us it's not a guarenteed failure.

Isn't a guarentee applied to something that's not supposed to fail? Just an observation.....

 

[BWL]

^Seems odd that a guy that had a failure, is telling us it's not a guarenteed failure.

Isn't a guarentee applied to something that's not supposed to fail? Just an observation.....

Just saying they don't all fail. 1 side lasted about 170k before it failed and the other never has at 272k. The replaced side hasn't leaked in over 100k now. How long is an exhaust system supposed to last in your opinion? Everything will fail if given enough time. As far as exhaust repair goes that's not bad in my books. Most of my other vehicles have had the whole system replaced by the time I've reached this mileage.

 

[blackbetty14]

I'm about to pull the trigger on some ARP upgraded bolts. My truck is still under lease but I'm the type of guy that does preventative vs repair. I wanted to keep the stock manifolds as I dont feel shorties are worth it, LTs are a big jump in cost but I dont think for the cost its worth it without tuning. Tuning on my 18 requires a unlocked PCM... aka $1k from Moes just for the tuning. I wanted to do a rear mount turbo (4-6psi)... Added cost would be less than $1k after the tuning or about the same cost as tuning and a cheap set of ebay LT's with ypipe. I would rather keep it stock as the cast manifolds are great for keeping heat in. Plus all the shorties Ive seen require mods to the gasket or grinding down the plastic on the valve covers... I like the clearance and ease of install on the stock manifolds. My truck only has 6900 miles and ive had it for about 1.5 years. Im about to pull the trigger on some SS ARP 45mm bolts and ditch the heat shields except for the ones on the gaskets. The ARPs are like 20-30,000 psi stronger than grade 8. Someone said the rears pop bc of the added weight of the ypipe hanging off the back of the manifold. Basically why spend 2k on headers and tune for 30rwhp with LTs vs 2k for 4-6psi and make 100rwhp.

 

[weldguy]

ARP doesn't have the threaded studs, but they do have the correct bolts.

 

[Sean Taylor]

I have been running with the MDS off until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. My theory being that if I warm then engine up evenly perhaps it would put less strain on the mai ford bolts. So far no issues, but I have absolutely no idea if this is helping or not.

 

[blackbetty14]

ARP doesn't have the threaded studs, but they do have the correct bolts.

Yes, that’s what I’m going to order. 45mm bolts for the stock manifolds.

 

[Tim Garceau]

The flange warps over heat cycles especially if you're working the engine hard in the low/midrange. The flange deviation has enough tensile yield to tear grade 8(12.9s) right out of your aluminum heads. Tread lightly, the bolts were designed to fail and cast iron is cheap. If you want to keep the restrictive but easily accessable OEM logs and their fasteners, have them planed by a machinist.

 

[Qweedqwag]

The way I would do it, does ARP make header bolts for our junk?

 

[MK96]

If the manifolds warp and are then machined to flat again, will they continue to warp? or is all of the warp now "worked out" after the first time?

My truck is under MaxCare so I wont be trying to replace them myself, but I would be interested to see if my dealer corrects the manifolds as well as replaces the bolts if (when) it ever comes down to it on my truck.

The machined used ones shouldn't warp again or warp less than the new ones.

 

[RLJ10X]

So, you'll go from a piece of junk, to a piece of machined junk.

Has anyone told these manifolds they're only allowed to warp once?

The factory used cast iron manifolds for one reason: They're cheap.

 

[chrisbh17]

So, you'll go from a piece of junk, to a piece of machined junk.

Has anyone told these manifolds they're only allowed to warp once?

The factory used cast iron manifolds for one reason: They're cheap.

I asked because wood does something similar....once you release the tension, it wont warp, etc again. I know, wood is not metal but I was not sure if the initial warpage would be most of what the manifold would do over its lifetime.

I know it could be fixed with headers, but I have MaxCare Lifetime, which precludes changes like that.

 

[eddie046]

With the Lifetime Warranty which I just payed off this week I figure it they break it's the dealers problem. But I am a big believer if it ain't broke don't fix it!

 

[swapwap]

I wouldn’t mess with it, your more likely to cause a problem like breaking something trying to do “questionable preventative” work. I suspect the percentages of one of those bolts actually breaking off in the next ten years is far less than the likelyhood of you even owning the truck ten years from now. Heck, most people don’t keep homes for ten years anymore

 

[Matts175]

Lol. My last one was a 2003. I just got this 2015 two months ago. I drive my cars until the wheels fall off. My 2003 actually ran and drove great, but she was a rust bucket.

 

[guru1ofatl]

Seems to me that no matter what fasteners you go with, the stock manifolds will ultimately fail in such a way that the fastener will pull threads or break off. When I was going to stick with the stock manifolds I planned on removing the corner bolts and cutting a shallow groove near the hex as a stress riser. I would prefer that they fail there rather than flush with the head as the usually do.

 

[RLJ10X]

Is MaxCare and the factory extended warranty the same thing, or 2 different things?

What do those things cost nowadays?

 

[blackbetty14]

I almost did the ARP bolts for the stock manifold but took what you guys said to heart. I have removed lots of broken bolts from LS motors where the cast manifolds break them flush or in the head and I have to weld nuts to get them out and I don’t feel like doing that on my ram with the engine in the car.

Decided to say $!?@ it and bout these ****** black heart shorties today, they follow the stock manifold as they are a log design and are 1 5/8” primary... so much better than 13/4-17/8 for low and mid range where I’m always at. 409SS sucks but I’m gona blast and coat it myself with creakote ceramic coating. Plus the stock style manifold gaskets fit no problem so heat stays off the valve covers. I couldn’t bring myself to buy the eBays or Bbk or JBLs with the wonky large tubes and no bolt access or worse cracking issues on the cheaper ones. These bad boys are 16gauge and I don’t have to mod nothing. Got a set or ARP header SS bolts coming, felpro stock gaskets and remflex header gaskets. Plus they are $429 but I will have paid $329 after statement credits etc. So about $400 after bolts $62 and $20 for gaskets. Depending on what I use.
https://www.holley.com/products/exh...t_speed_exhaust/dodge/ram/parts/70302405-RHKR