I love Heim joints - getting rid of some polyurethane in my suspension

[DavidRam]

Those are ugly as all sin, don't do it! At least the Chris Alston ones look great and have zero deflection while still being adjustable.

I was kidding about those, lol. They ARE hideous and I seriously LOLed when I saw them.

How do you like the rear end links?

Does Chis Alstons have front end links specifically for our trucks??



I am liking these ones --> UUC 2535-06-FLI 2006-2012 Dodge Cummins 5.9L/6.7L 24V Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar End Links UUC 2535-06-FLI 2006-2012 Dodge Cummins 5.9L/6.7L Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar End Links [UUC2535-06-FLI] - $92.00 : Storm Automotive Technologies, Your one stop a

 

[charonblk07]

I was kidding about those, lol. They ARE hideous and I seriously LOLed when I saw them.



How do you like the rear end links?



Does Chis Alstons have front end links specifically for our trucks??







I am liking these ones --> UUC 2535-06-FLI 2006-2012 Dodge Cummins 5.9L/6.7L 24V Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar End Links UUC 2535-06-FLI 2006-2012 Dodge Cummins 5.9L/6.7L Heavy Duty Front Sway Bar End Links [UUC2535-06-FLI] - $92.00 : Storm Automotive Technologies, Your one stop a

Those links won't work on the 1500, the 1500 uses an inline link on the IFS not a 90deg link like the SFA axles. Chris Alston doesn't make links specifically for our trucks but they have 3 lengths that are available with +- 1.5" of adjustment. I'll find a link to them when I'm not on my phone and back in the office.

I like the rears, they're overly beefy but easily adjustable and look better than the Hellwig adjustable links. I'm not a fan of drilling out the sway bar though, even if it is Q&T 4140 chrome moly steel (why it was so hard to drill out btw).

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[DavidRam]

Those links won't work on the 1500, the 1500 uses an inline link on the IFS not a 90deg link like the SFA axles. Chris Alston doesn't make links specifically for our trucks but they have 3 lengths that are available with +- 1.5" of adjustment. I'll find a link to them when I'm not on my phone and back in the office.

I like the rears, they're overly beefy but easily adjustable and look better than the Hellwig adjustable links. I'm not a fan of drilling out the sway bar though, even if it is Q&T 4140 chrome moly steel (why it was so hard to drill out btw).

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Cool, thanks. On the ones I posted, I would need to add a clevis bracket to the heim end.

 

[charonblk07]

Cool, thanks. On the ones I posted, I would need to add a clevis bracket to the heim end.

Alright, here are the endlinks they have, I guess there's only 2 sizes now for the inline links. I'm running the 7.25" center links on mine, the 4.75 were too short for mine and snapped when the truck was put onto a lift.

 

[DavidRam]

Thanks a lot! I'll check em out.

 

[DavidRam]

Got my panhard bar put together and installed.

This thing is wicked, unnecessarily beefy and I love it!

 

[Warmage]

how smooth is the ride now ? , harsher then stock ?

 

[DavidRam]

how smooth is the ride now ? , harsher then stock ?

Overall my truck is much harsher than stock, but that is my fault... My shocks are set to a firm setting, and I have remove ALL rubber and polyurethane bushings from the rear (and soon the front). In the rear it's either heim joints or delrin.

 

[charonblk07]

how smooth is the ride now ? , harsher then stock ?

Overall my truck is much harsher than stock, but that is my fault... My shocks are set to a firm setting, and I have remove ALL rubber and polyurethane bushings from the rear (and soon the front). In the rear it's either heim joints or delrin.

Ditto. Stock ride is lazy and sluggish but comfortable. A properly setup sports suspension is aggressive and immediate but much rougher. One benefit I have over David is with the dual adjustable shocks I can dial down both the compression and rebound and somewhat adjust for a softer ride, which I do if it's a road trip with my wife; it's not factory smooth but it's a lot less harsh.

 

[DavidRam]

Ditto. Stock ride is lazy and sluggish but comfortable. A properly setup sports suspension is aggressive and immediate but much rougher. One benefit I have over David is with the dual adjustable shocks I can dial down both the compression and rebound and somewhat adjust for a softer ride, which I do if it's a road trip with my wife; it's not factory smooth but it's a lot less harsh.

True.

Despite the harsher ride, it is pretty awesome to be able to drive a 5,300lb +/- down the street and just yank the steering wheel into a turn with no worries! Or take a bend on the freeway at 90mph and the truck is firmly planted.

 

[charonblk07]

True.

Despite the harsher ride, it is pretty awesome to be able to drive a 5,300lb +/- down the street and just yank the steering wheel into a turn with no worries! Or take a bend on the freeway at 90mph and the truck is firmly planted.

Ain't that the truth. I've got a long sweep with only 2 bumps in it that goes from hwy 201 to hwy 2, my brother's '05 Laramie can take it at 100km/h before I have to let out when the back end starts braking loose; I had my truck taking it at 150km/h, I could push it faster but it has vehicles coming in from both sides so I have to slow down for the merge in case of cops

Is your next step to go for the front suspension and go heims on the upper and lower control arms and get more adjustability for them?

 

[DavidRam]

Ain't that the truth. I've got a long sweep with only 2 bumps in it that goes from hwy 201 to hwy 2, my brother's '05 Laramie can take it at 100km/h before I have to let out when the back end starts braking loose; I had my truck taking it at 150km/h, I could push it faster but it has vehicles coming in from both sides so I have to slow down for the merge in case of cops

Is your next step to go for the front suspension and go heims on the upper and lower control arms and get more adjustability for them?

Yes sir! Well, first I am working on a solution to the Moog F150 end links I am running in front, that pop when I hit a steep drive way...
Here is the flaw (I am sure you know this better than me): The Hellwig is ridged as ****, the end link is reasonably strong, the pu bushings are bearly hanging in their... When I hit that dip or driveway the force of the sway bar is basically pushing the bushings aside and clunking against the Moog end link.

I think there is too little articulation in the end link to allow the sway bar to move as it needs to, and the sway bar will win against any resistance. I would love to find a way to use heim joints top and bottom...

What do you think about all this???

 

[charonblk07]

You don't have enough deflection in the end link, that's the problem. Since the lower half is basically a ball joint you're over extending the joint when the suspension compresses so much and the rubber joint between the sway bar and upper link is forced aside to allow the required offset/deflection to cycle the lower control arm. If it didn't then you'd have some major suspension bind and have severe bump steer or just plain ol' snap the link. Only way to deal with it to get a link with articulating joints at both ends so you can have a higher offset between the lower control arm mount and the sway bar.

I would avoid a heim joint at this location, they are not designed to be pulled sideways so unless you have them perfectly aligned you'll be putting a side load on the inner race. The best joint is a uniball which can take both a side and tension load and are a more compact joint. Most have self lubricating liners and zero deflection with a high offset angle capability. Guess what the Chris Alston links use? It's not that I'm a shill for them, it's that it's the best product for the limited space available.

 

[DavidRam]

You don't have enough deflection in the end link, that's the problem. Since the lower half is basically a ball joint you're over extending the joint when the suspension compresses so much and the rubber joint between the sway bar and upper link is forced aside to allow the required offset/deflection to cycle the lower control arm. If it didn't then you'd have some major suspension bind and have severe bump steer or just plain ol' snap the link. Only way to deal with it to get a link with articulating joints at both ends so you can have a higher offset between the lower control arm mount and the sway bar.

I would avoid a heim joint at this location, they are not designed to be pulled sideways so unless you have them perfectly aligned you'll be putting a side load on the inner race. The best joint is a uniball which can take both a side and tension load and are a more compact joint. Most have self lubricating liners and zero deflection with a high offset angle capability. Guess what the Chris Alston links use? It's not that I'm a shill for them, it's that it's the best product for the limited space available.

^^^ Exactly what I am thinking too.

I am going to get the Chris Alstons. Does anyone sell them less than on the Chassisworks site??

Do you think I should get the shorter ones or the longer ones like yours?? I'm gonna run out and measure...


Edit: The current Moogs are about 5" between the mounting points which brings the sway bar pretty close to level. The factory ones are closer to 6" between the mounting points...

The 7.26 allows +/- 1" so at its shortest setting, it would be 6.26". About 1/4" longer than the factory links.

The 4.72 allows +/- 1/2" so I could set it at the 5" of the Moog links...

What would you do???

 

[charonblk07]

I think the shorter links would work for you. I couldn't use them because I'm a 4wd but they should be fine for you.


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[DavidRam]

I think the shorter links would work for you. I couldn't use them because I'm a 4wd but they should be fine for you.


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Cool, thanks! They are really *******, there is nothing like them out there... I have looked for hours.

 

[DavidRam]

Ok, the next part to my "getting rid of pu bushings" is on order. The Chris Alston 4.72 dual ball joint inline front sway bar end links.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-2817-endlink-inline-472-center-tra.aspx

 

[PassivAggressor]

Whats the best way to eliminate bump steer up front? I posted in Unbroken's thread but I haven't seen an answer. Is it just tie rods?

 

[charonblk07]

Whats the best way to eliminate bump steer up front? I posted in Unbroken's thread but I haven't seen an answer. Is it just tie rods?

Install a bump steer kit. I did the JTSVP SRT10 kit with 2500 inner tie rods but since then Michigan Metal Works has released a bump steer kit, but I'm not a fan of it since there's no tapered bolt to match the spindle properly, it's just a shimmed bolt.

 

[DavidRam]

bump steer kit

"I will not click on that ^^^, I will not click on that... I just spent $250 on mother ******* end links, I will not click on that... I do not need that so I will not click on that..."

Oooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, I clicked.