Yes, we have always run the AC on heat or defrost to remove moisture. The newer vehicles now do that automatically particularly if you engage defrost setting. All I can tell you is even the new vehicles clear the windows WAY, WAY better if you use outside air. At minus 20 to minus 60 there is very little actual moisture in the outside air. Remember, the humidity you see on the weather is relative humidity, which means it is temp adjusted. 50 percent relative humidity at 40F has way more actual moisture than 50 percent relative at -40F. Between your breath, moisture on floor matts, snow tracked in etc there is far more moisture inside the car than outside and the warmer air suspends a lot more moisture too.
Absolute humidity is the amount of water vapour present in a given mass of air at a particular time and temperature, while relative humidity is the ratio of the amount of water vapour present in the atmosphere to the maximum amount of water vapour the air can hold.
And just for clarity, cold air has a lower potential maximum water capacity than warm air.
Hot air expands, and rises; cooled air contracts – gets denser – and sinks; and the ability of the air to hold water depends on its temperature. A given volume of air at 20°C (68°F) can hold twice the amount of water vapor than at 10°C (50°F). The relationship of how much water a given mass of air actually holds compared to the amount it can hold is its relative humidity. When air holds as much water vapor as it can for a given temperature (100% relative humidity), it is said to be saturated. If saturated air is warmed, it can hold more water (relative humidity drops), which is why warm air is used to dry objects--it absorbs moisture. On the other hand, cooling saturated air (said to be at its dew point) forces water out (condensation). This is why a container of a cold beverage sweats: it cools the air next to it and moisture from the air condenses on the outside of the can.