I found this link is this the correct one?
Do you have recommended cheap speakers for the front doors or maybe all four doors?
Thank you,
Steve
Yep, that's the one. Though, I'd extend to using the CLD, CCF, and MLV on BOTH layers of the door[rahter than just the CLD on the inner door skin where he screwed the plate on and reached through the hole, etc.]. Also, I'd be using two layers of CLD as the base, and then, just behind the speaker, DOUBLE the layering of everything. So, 4 layers CLD, 2 layers CCF, and 2 layers of MLV just behind the speaker, with 2 layers CLD, 1 layer CCF, and 1 layer MLV everywhere else. Generally, that is.
As far as speakers go, I'm running kicker CS's in all four door. 6x9 3-way in the fronts, 5.25" coax in the rears. In order to build a simple, low profile, stealthy/sleeper sound system, though, I'd recommend [and am going to do this, myself] running 6x9 components in the front doors WITHOUT the tweeters, 5.25 coax in the rear, and ADD 3.5" coax in the dashboard.
Depending on how many pre-outs your head-unit has, and if one set of them are 'subs' you should run the 6x9's on the subwoofer channel, the 5.25" rears on the rear channel, and the 3.5" in the dash on the front channel.
Then, if your head unit can do it, set custom crossovers/HPF's/LPF's on each channel so that the 6x9's only play up to 150hz, the 5.25's only play DOWN to ~150hz, and the 3.5's only play DOWN to around ~250hz.
Couple all of that with a small amp for each channel that send the speakers all of what they can handle RMS wise, as well as the sound deadening -which is MORE important than amplifying the speakers- and you will have, as far as my theory goes, a very well rounded stealth/low profile/sleeper system that isn't lacking in many areas.
6x9's have a similar surface area to an 8" speaker. And 2 8's equals a little more than a 10"s surface area. So, having 2 6x9's run on the subwoofer channel -especially up front where you'll have good 'impact' should give you around the same bass output as having a single 10" sub, but without taking up any room or functionality from your interior.
Also, as soon as I finish my speaker mounting on the rears [I have to drill new holes for bolts since the stock rears are 3-point mounted, and any new speaker above 4" is 4 point mounted] I'll post up my install gallery explaining how to get everything done, particularly the kicker 6x9's in the front doors since if you try to just put them in, they'll prevent the window from going down by about 3/8's an inch of non clearance.
You'll see what I mean in the pics and explanation. Either way, this is the system/setup I'm going to try once I get my single cab. If it turns out that your head unit doesn't have 3 pre-outs including a 'subwoofer' channel, and can't set crossover/high pass filters on the front/rear channels/low pass filter on the subwoofer channel, then I have a working recommendation for a cheap single din that will more than get the job done, IMO, if you get around it's 2 or 3 little quirks. Which, given my tutelage, you can.
Funny enough, said head unit was the reason I said "Hope you didn't buy a fuckwood. [Kenwood]" until I figured out what the problem was and fixed it. THAT will be in a review of my head unit that I may or may not make. Either way, if your headunit doesn't work out like it needs to for this setup/project and you want the single din Kenwood {it's only ~$130 retail at best buy} then I can easily point out the 3 quirks and how to avoid them for you.
EDIT:: Actually, I think for sound deadening, I'm just gonna go double layers on everything and just get thinner CCF separator. I believe it comes in 0.5" thickness, normally, so I might get 0.25" thickness and layer everything as follows:
CLD, CLD, CCF, MLV, CCF, MLV.
THAT should give me the best result since using the CCF separates and isolates the previous layers and surfaces from the MLV, which is what reduces airborne and road noise. Yeah. And then maybe not worry about an extra thickness directly behind the speaker, or just up everything to 3 layers there instead of 2 each. Hmm.
Oh, by the way, CLD is the acronym for "Constrained layer dampening", CCF stands for "Closed cell foam" aka "decoupler foam" which, as stated, decouples and separates the CLD and MLV from each other so they can function without interfering with each other. Oh, and MLV is "Mass Loaded Vinyl", so yeah.
I'm the only one ever in the truck (wife on occasion) and never in the back seat, so it does not make sense for me to have anything back there when running active tweet/mid/sub stages. You will not be able to tell where the music is coming from when you close your eyes.
