nevinc
Member
After starting the truck, the at battery posttest is 14.87 Volts.
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
So far, I have:
08:45 - Battery at rest 12.01 Volts
09:45 - Started truck - 14.87 volts.
10:45 shut off truck running was 14.83.
10:50 shut off 12.84 volts.
Under load test with tester 11.25 volts.
After engaging the tester for 10 seconds the CCA was at 975, close to 1000 on the meter.
Removed negative battery terminal and tested for amperage between battery and negative cable. 4.5 Amp draw.
It has been off for 1 hour, so I would think it should be asleep by then?
At night, when the truck is off, does your instrument cluster and start button go through a constant cycle of illuminating for about 30 seconds, shut of for 10-15 seconds, then illuminating again, and constantly repeating this cycle?I bought a new 2024 RAM 2500 HD and have had to jump start it every day since I got it. Dealer said battery is good and they had no problem.
I don't know what to do to get them to understand that every morning I go out to my truck it is dead.
I have verified the usual, nothing is left on, I have tried different troubleshooting techniques.
Tried leaving the radio off, locking it, leaving it unlocked, etc.
I just jumped it and it started for about a second and died instantly and I heard a loud "crack" or pop in the dash to the left of the steering wheel..
I jumped it again and it started, it has been idling for about 30 minutes to charge the battery.
Anyone have any ideas other than I am going to take it back to the dealer and I am afraid they will again say it tests and runs fine...???
I get lifetime inspections and oil changes, also I get new vehicles to drive when they have my truck.
I am down to the fuses for determining the amperage draw. Actually, the dealership should figure this out.
Having been a vehicle and aircraft mechanic myself for 40 years or so, (Military and Civilian) I know how mechanics think and act.
I am determined to let "them" figure this out from here. They have a charts and diagrams from the mfg. that shows them what devices draw what current to help them narrow the issue down.
I have an appointment tomorrow to have them begin their exhaustive troubleshooting (sarcasm).
Thank you for all of your time and suggestions, they are very helpful!
There is your problem, monster parasitic draw. It will draw milli amps all the time for some things, not 4.5 amp, so now the search starts again. Remember, some things are always on, like RF hub, clock, voltage maintain settings, but milli amps, not 4.5 amps, IMHO. Just FYI, when you turn off truck, the "rotating" press to start display should go out after 45 seconds. The front hubs will power down, but then after 1 minute, (your front console charging hubs (USB), power up for 1 hour then go to sleep. But that is milli amps draw, not 4.5.Removed negative battery terminal and tested for amperage between battery and negative cable. 4.5 Amp draw.
A couple of mine are Noco Genius .75, the biggest I use as a trickle charge is Noco 2 Amp. I leave them plugged in full time, only unplug when I am taking the vehicle for a drive.Question: If I buy a GENIUS charger for my truck and wire it in with a quick release harness, what is the recommended amperage I should use? They sell 1A, 2A, 5A, 10A, etc.?