Killed My Battery With Too Many Lights, Do I Need New Alt or Battery?

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

Or both?

I pushed it too far and installed 4 KC Halogens and wound up having to do something I haven't done in about 20 years: jump start a vehicle.

Is it just a matter of getting a better alternator, or a "bigger" battery, or both?

For perspective, the KC lights are 130W each, in addition to the stock halogens, so that's about 630W total.

 

[MarshRam]

The battery in my 2014 crapped out in 2016. Happened after installing a 27k lumen 54" light bar. Coincidence???? IDK..Anyhow, bought a new battery and it has been 2 years since. Run the light bar and/or sound system with amps every time I'm in it. I think you may just need a new battery.

 

[PNW-Ram]

Or both?

I pushed it too far and installed 4 KC Halogens and wound up having to do something I haven't done in about 20 years: jump start a vehicle.

Is it just a matter of getting a better alternator, or a "bigger" battery, or both?

For perspective, the KC lights are 130W each, in addition to the stock halogens, so that's about 630W total.

130 Watts is about 10 amps x 4. I'd be surprised if your alternator couldn't produce an additional 40 amps - but you didn't mention how it happened.

Was the truck running or off?
If running, was it idling or were you keeping the RPM up?
How long were the lights on?

 

[Truck Fun]

Technically isn't the battery only really used when starting and the subsequent electrical load (including charging the battery) supported by the alternator? If you have too much load for the alternator, then it can't support the electrical load and recharge the battery. So wouldn't the same problem occur even with a new battery? I think you would have to look at a different alternator.

 

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

130 Watts is about 10 amps x 4. I'd be surprised if your alternator couldn't produce an additional 40 amps - but you didn't mention how it happened.

Was the truck running or off?
If running, was it idling or were you keeping the RPM up?
How long were the lights on?

The truck was always running. Although there was some idle time, maybe 20 minutes at best, while I adjusted the beams on the 4 KC’s.

The other factor is my truck is used for a lot of short distance driving around town. It seems like an incredible coincidence this happens the morning after the install. However, maybe the battery was weakened and this just sort of put it over the top? I don’t know...

I did jump it today and took it on the highway for about 1/2 hour. Got home shut it down, and when I tried to start it again, it was real weak, but it started. I shut it down and tried one more time again, and it did start, but barely. I doubt it will start now without another jump.

It’s a 2015, so the stock battery has been there for probably 4 years now. Part of me wants to just buy a new battery, if it happens again, then I guess it’s likely the alternator. ...but as someone else mentioned, the battery is more or less there to start the vehicle, so if that alternator can’t recharge the battery effectively, then that’s the real issue.

...but I have no perspective whether or not it should handle this load easily.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

Look at upgrading your alt to a 180 or 240 amp.

 

[Ballistic308]

Batteries are for starting and are not needed for much else. With that said it is possible (on rare occasions) to damage an alternator with heavy loads at idle. My guess is you damaged your alternator electronics which then no longer is charging your battery.

Simple method for checking, start your engine and disconnect the battery positive lead. If the engine dies your alternator is toast, if the engine remains running the alternator is functioning, but could still be damaged and intermittently functions when hot or cold.

Make sense?

 

[Pull Ya]

Simple method for checking, start your engine and disconnect the battery positive lead. If the engine dies your alternator is toast, if the engine remains running the alternator is functioning, but could still be damaged and intermittently functions when hot or cold.

Make sense?[/QUOTE]

This is good information
Jay

 

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

It ran for about 10 seconds and died.

As soon as I pulled off the terminal, the light under the hood started to blink. The blinking got worse, then it died.

 

[Ballistic308]

It ran for about 10 seconds and died.

As soon as I pulled off the terminal, the light under the hood started to blink.

That would the alternator at fault. Just need a replacement now.

FWIW-I’ve ran a combined total of 60+ amp of lights and ARB compressor for 12-15 min several times at idle in my 2008 ram and never had an issue, so I don’t feel it’s the devices you’re operating rather an unfortunate premature failure. I could be wrong as I don’t know what the newer alternator outputs are, but the should be around the 130A range which should be plenty and then some to run your truck and your lights.

 

[PNW-Ram]

Get a CTD with the extra alternator. According to the manual, mine puts out 390 amps (4,680 Watts) at idle. I can put out enough light to **** off the local airport.
440 amps when the engine is over 1,500 RPM.

 

[PNW-Ram]

The truck was always running. Although there was some idle time, maybe 20 minutes at best, while I adjusted the beams on the 4 KC’s.

The other factor is my truck is used for a lot of short distance driving around town. It seems like an incredible coincidence this happens the morning after the install. However, maybe the battery was weakened and this just sort of put it over the top? I don’t know...

I did jump it today and took it on the highway for about 1/2 hour. Got home shut it down, and when I tried to start it again, it was real weak, but it started. I shut it down and tried one more time again, and it did start, but barely. I doubt it will start now without another jump.

It’s a 2015, so the stock battery has been there for probably 4 years now. Part of me wants to just buy a new battery, if it happens again, then I guess it’s likely the alternator. ...but as someone else mentioned, the battery is more or less there to start the vehicle, so if that alternator can’t recharge the battery effectively, then that’s the real issue.

...but I have no perspective whether or not it should handle this load easily.

It's likely that at idle the alternator isn't putting out much more current than you need to run the truck and headlights. An additional 40 amps on your battery for 20 minutes could drain it somewhat. Lots of short trips won't help.

You can pull the alternator and get it tested at any competent auto electric shop. It may not be toast, but that's a possibility.
You can also pull the battery and have it "load tested" to see if it's good or needs replacement. Fortunately, the people who want to sell you a new battery will give you a load test for free.

Look in the manual - there's a chart that shows the alternator pulley ratio for your engine (probably between 2:1 and 3:1) multiply that by your idle RPM (probably 700-800) - to find your alternator RPM at idle (probably 1,500 - 2,000) and see how many amps the alternator is putting out at that RPM. That's the total amperage your alternator can produce at that RPM - if you use more than that (you're using all the lights) your battery will drain. If you're making more than you're using, your battery will charge. How many amps does your truck need to idle is a question that somebody here can answer.

 

[MyRAMatDunkinDonuts]

So, to add to the intrigue, I just did another 1/2 hour highway run with a few high rpm bursts. Now it starts just fine, but of course, I wasn’t using any of the lights.

I’m inclined to get a HD alternator, it does look like an easy enough swap too.

 

[gofishn]

It ran for about 10 seconds and died.

As soon as I pulled off the terminal, the light under the hood started to blink. The blinking got worse, then it died.

too much draw for that alternator or that alternator has been weaken due to excesive draw, eithe rway, you need a replacement alternator to run those lights and recharge the battery, simply replacing that alternator with like will not the kjob unless ou strat your truck m drive it for hours and hours , then park it. OEM alternator will not have enough left over power, after unnning truck and those lights, to send much juice to battery for recharging.

IE: You need higher output alternator. Could also go with a 2nd, additional battery, like hi fi guys use. in conjunction with higher outpt alternator, if pplan on adding much other electrical draw on your system.

 

[bigred74]

I'm not sure if it's the same on 4th gens but worth looking into... on my 2nd gen when I replaced the alternator I told the sales guy I had a dodge Durango same year as my truck. The Durango was a higher amp alternator yet cheaper than a truck one and since both had the 5.9 engine back then it bolted right in no problem

 

[OC455]

Put in your vehicle information and go to electrical and then alternator, it gives you 3 options for the alternators, 160amp, 180amp and a 220amp alternator.

http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog-small.html?msclkid=9f625b054e6f169e3ec300932fced554

Part Number: 56029644AB is for the 220amp alternator

 

[kad]

Put in your vehicle information and go to electrical and then alternator, it gives you 3 options for the alternators, 160amp, 180amp and a 220amp alternator.

http://www.wholesalemopar.com/parts_catalog-small.html?msclkid=9f625b054e6f169e3ec300932fced554

Part Number: 56029644AB is for the 220amp alternator

Good info. But $500 for an alternator? Ouch!

-K

 

[WilliamS]

Technically isn't the battery only really used when starting and the subsequent electrical load (including charging the battery) supported by the alternator? If you have too much load for the alternator, then it can't support the electrical load and recharge the battery. So wouldn't the same problem occur even with a new battery? I think you would have to look at a different alternator.

Correct, after the truck is running all current is provided by the alternator unless there is a sudden or heavy load that alternator cant handle. The 180amp alternators in these trucks can handle more than enough. The battery is there as a buffer. My battery died at 2 years on new years eve a few years back, no fun at all. Started to leave to church just fine, drove there no issue, got back in after I ran into the church to lock up so say less than a minute and it was dead. It was still reading 12v but 1 cell was dead. Funny about these new vehicles even a jump start, if I remove the jump pack it would die because it knew there wasnt enough current to keep the truck running if the alternator failed.

 

[OC455]

Good info. But $500 for an alternator? Ouch!

-K

Yeah, my same thoughts, but those are the only ones that I could find.....checked summit, carid and a couple of other auto places, and nothing available for a high amp alternator replacement that I could find.

 

[McBroom]

The truck was always running. Although there was some idle time, maybe 20 minutes at best, while I adjusted the beams on the 4 KC’s.

The other factor is my truck is used for a lot of short distance driving around town. It seems like an incredible coincidence this happens the morning after the install. However, maybe the battery was weakened and this just sort of put it over the top? I don’t know...

I did jump it today and took it on the highway for about 1/2 hour. Got home shut it down, and when I tried to start it again, it was real weak, but it started. I shut it down and tried one more time again, and it did start, but barely. I doubt it will start now without another jump.

It’s a 2015, so the stock battery has been there for probably 4 years now. Part of me wants to just buy a new battery, if it happens again, then I guess it’s likely the alternator. ...but as someone else mentioned, the battery is more or less there to start the vehicle, so if that alternator can’t recharge the battery effectively, then that’s the real issue.

...but I have no perspective whether or not it should handle this load easily.

I would change the battery and install a marine deep cycle as large as will fit with the most cranking amps possible.
By using a deep cycle battery you get the ability to use the electronics in the vehicle without having to worry about it starting a 3-4 hours later.


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