Learned something today......

[0212353]

So, on my 2010 Ram I have a set of Morimoto DRLs, which I hooked up to my sunroof fuse as the "trigger". That fuse only gets power when the truck is on ACC or on. Nifty.........right?

So, today, I did an install on a customer's truck, 2014 Laramie Longhorn. Assumed my tried and true method of sunroof fuse would work. I ran the wiring harness, set up the wiring for the DRLs for him (in this case, a set of LED strips / halos in his FXR Retrofitted projectors we did for him)........plugged it in, BOOM! Halos on. Truck is off, keys are in his pocket. Well......****.

Lets....... well, try this again. Lets find a fuse that works how I want! What did it? HVAC. So.......well, there's a tidbit of info.....wanting a fuse to tap for something to be on when the truck is running? HVAC it is on the newer trucks.

 

[baum]

if your a shop doing it for a customer why are you not using a true ignition source? there are plenty of them in these trucks.

if i had a customer come in and tell me another shop installed something then wend off of the the fuse box i would let them know how bad of an install that is.

 

[NYCruiser]

Direct ignition source and dedicated DRL fuse is the right job.

 

[0212353]

Then school me guys.....and keep in mind.....I do about 3 installs a year, and this is the first I've run to a fuse box for a "trigger". I am not an installer, I build the product - but in this case - yup, chose to install for the customer. (who was extremely happy with the install, there with me for the entire thing). Posting up that I did it wrong is great and all.....but forums are really designed for helping.......so how about it?

I have a dedicated dual relay harness to run halos (overkill, really). The trigger is simply the HVAC fuse. I run this same setup on my truck (and have for years, on the sunroof fuse). Ease of access to the fuse box in proximity to the battery made it a very simple wiring job. I'm all ears for better solutions though - what exact wire would you tap if you where in the same situation here?

 

[baum]

A direct ignition source is the right thing to do.

the problem with these trucks and many vehicles on the road today is they are all low current and computer controlled. the slightest variance in current draw can set off computer error codes.

your best bet is to use a true ignition source and wire it to a relay as the signal to the relay then no current is being put on any circuits

 

[0212353]

So........how about enlightening us to a direct ignition source wire?

My only variation here is that my trigger comes from the fuse box......no current pulled from that fuse, just a trigger to turn on. But....ya know, if there's a better way, I'm all ears. I'm assuming you've done it, just wondering what wire is best for this application (or the one that you used when doing something similar).

 

[scotts2012ram]

Jj i use the same thing. I work on big rigs along with auto ive done it that way for years and will tell i see a problem if car audio shops and the 3 buddys that work at dealership say thats how they do it. Im not changing

 

[NYCruiser]

Taking power that works as you need it to from anywhere will work, but could become confusing to the owner if, for example, the sunroof fuse blows and they lose headlights. They may at that point not realize that they have also lost sunroof and have trouble/delay figuring it out.
I've always either looked for an Aux fuse if the vehicle provides them, or an empty fuse for a feature the truck doesn't use. Snowplow, for example, or some other option that's open.
Many times you can find a powered slot that has no fuse in it and make it dedicated. Then label it for what you are using it for.
If I paid for a pro installation, I would expect to find it wired cleanly like that.
Labeling is really key. Adding a clear label to the distribution panel that indicates "fuse #x - HVAC/DRL" may be enough IMO.

 

[baum]

being in the business for 12+ years i see dealers blame aftermarket shops with anything. yes there is the magnusson-moss act but if something went wrong with the fuse that you are tapping off of there is a 99% they will deny your warranty claim and it will with stand also since you are tapping off of that circuit.

 

[0212353]

I'll clear the air a bit......

1 - customer was here, helping with the install. We talked the entire time, so hey knows exactly what I tapped to, etc.
2 - if his HVAC goes out....I'd be taken back.......odd. I am not pulling power from the fuse box for this, just a trigger.
3 - I like the idea of the aux fuses, will have to look for one on the next install like this I do.
4 - I didn't charge to do the install. (not that it should play into this)