LED bed lights installed (pics)

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jerryb

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Minimum operating temp for reed switch is -5c! FYI
 

blackbetty14

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Looks good I ilke it!!

How did you tap into the trailer 12v? did you make a plug for the trailer light? Or tap into the harness with a connector?
 

reapur

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Thanks for the great idea.
I'm not familiar with these Strip lights.
The picture you show has the lights on the sides of the bed, not on the bulkhead. On Amazon, it's one strip 16 feet long. Can you cut these and connect them with a wire or how did you bypass the bulkhead?

Thanks
 

cgeorgemo

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Thanks for the great idea.

I'm not familiar with these Strip lights.

The picture you show has the lights on the sides of the bed, not on the bulkhead. On Amazon, it's a once strip 16 feet long. Can you cut these and connect them with a wire or how did you bypass the bulkhead?



Thanks


The lights can be cut in minimum of 3 light sets according to the information I read.


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cgeorgemo

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Got the lights delivered yesterday. They have a little scissors icon every 3 lights on the strip. Also they smell horrible. A few hours out of the package should help with that.
 

Egress

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I love this idea, going to try it also. Seems everytime i need to find something at night in the back I cant find the damn flashlight.
 

blackbetty14

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Im about to order all these stuff to do mine but ran across a problem.

The Reed switches that Im seeing on ebay show that the magnet needs to be next to the switch to complete the circuit. So when you open the tail gate the magnet moves away and opens the circuit… so how does it allow the 12v to the LED strips?

Unless the OP used a normally closed circuit that opens when the magnet is near it.
 

RHeller

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Best check the ratings on the reed switches. Most I am finding are not rated for enough to handle led strips down both sides of the bed
 

z28th1s

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Nice job on the install. I noticed that the 2015 Ford F150's have lights in the back sides of the bed now.
 

blackbetty14

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Best check the ratings on the reed switches. Most I am finding are not rated for enough to handle led strips down both sides of the bed

I have checked... the cheap AC current home security ones aren't even the right normally closed to give the correct orientation for the light to be on when the tailgate is opened and magnets are apart. so your looking for a normally closed switch that opens when the magnet is near to break the circuit when the tail gate is closed.

Depending on the amperage rating of the switch I can wire it 2 ways. The amperage of the LEDS is 1.2 amps/meter, which seems high but will confirm when I get them. I want to run full 5ft strips on each side. I will wire it up straight off the reed switch or I will use the reed switch to control a relay which is way overkill but will allow the addition of more lighting if need be.

I found the switch and ordered it with two 5m strips of 5050 red waterproof LEDs with black PCB boards (For a more stealth look).

I will do my own write up so people get some better answers and ideas.
 

Mcchub

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You can buy a magnetic reed switch that has a n.o.& n.c. Contact and wire in the lights from there.
 

darkknight

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I have a camping tent for my truck bed so having a magnet switch wouldn't work for me, although its a great idea. I was wondering if i can just hook up positve to switch - switch ot positive on the taillight harness and ground directly to the tail light ground. I haven't looked at the tail light harness yet but wondering if that was possible.

Thanks
 

Carlo

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Thanks for this post, I'm looking to do this once the weather warms up.
Sorry, I have minimal knowledge when it comes to electricity so these may be stupid questions.

The led strip I am looking at has the following specs:
- Working Voltage: 12V DC(12V 5A for 5M 5050 300LED)
- Wattage: 60 watts

Is adding a fuse necessary?
Is the 60 watts relevant or does it have no real bearing on anything?
Does anyone have a link to the magnetic reed switch they used?
The link above ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010F0086?tag=viglink20503-20 ) says that switch has a current rating of 500 mA @ 12 VDC. I'm planning on running the light strip around three sides of the box so I would be using nearly the entire 5M if not all of it. The switch above will not work for that will it?
 

blackbetty14

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I just did this and 5A is alot for that roll of LEds, it's more like 1.2A. Look for my thread on the LED lighting I did recently, I posted links to the stuff I used.
 

smithj603

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resurrecting an old thread here but great idea with the magnetic switch and clean install- need to find a switch that can handle colder temps but thanks for the info
 

King nothing

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Great light install. Just commenting so I can find it again later


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crazykid1994

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Does anyone know how the cargo light switch works to add a switch in the bed? I believe the newer trucks are supposed to be coming out with a switch in the bed for that. Almost wonder if there is a way to copy or even use the new design?


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I know this thread is 3 years old but I was hoping the original guy (or someone] had a photo of what wire is the +12v on the 7 pin harness. Got some lights coming to me and that sounds like the easiest way to get power.

Finally warmed up enough to install my bed lights, which are a necessity for anyone with a cover. The lights are installed under the bed rails and controlled by a magnetic reed switch on the tailgate. Lights turn on when the tailgate is opened and turn off when closed. I powered it by tapping the 7-pin trailer connector.

LEDs/Wiring under bed rails:
4rXWBRB.jpg

Reed switch placement:
T6Rxo97.jpg

Actuator magnet and reed switch:
zwXAgcf.jpg

Finished product. Can't tell from the crappy picture, but it gives you plenty of light:
RkNzGtC.jpg
 

shadowhawk

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Does anyone know how the cargo light switch works to add a switch in the bed? I believe the newer trucks are supposed to be coming out with a switch in the bed for that. Almost wonder if there is a way to copy or even use the new design?


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This guy did that. Not very descriptive though.

Installing bed lights on a switch
 
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