Looking for Wiring help

[EagleChief]

Need a little advice from "mod masters" on here. I've tried searching, but haven't been able to find an answer.

I have some LED strip lights that I'm going to install under the cab. They have 3 functions: 1) white entry lights, 2) Amber running lights, 3) Amber turn signals. http://www.opt-7.com/sidekick-sequential-running-board-switchback-led-strip-kit/

My question is, is there somewhere inside the cab that I can hook into the running lights and turn signals? Each strip has 4 wires to hook up, one for each function and a ground. I figured I could tie into my footwell lighting for the entry function. But, if possible, I'd like to run all of the wires together.

Or, can I connect them to the fuse box under the hood somehow to keep from splicing into any wires?

Thank you.


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[firebuff17]

Trailer wiring using a T-harness from Curt will do the trick. Probably the easiest way. That way your not hacking up your factory wiring harness and the trailer wiring has every function that you require all in one spot.

 

[EagleChief]

I see I can use the 4pin trailer connecter and get my turn signals. But, it appears the running lights and brake lights are using the same connection. If I used that function, would that cause the running lights freak out when I hit the brakes?

I'm honestly debating not even using the running light option, just to stay away from the "underglow" look when my lights are on. So, this may all be a moot point.


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[firebuff17]

I don’t have an answer about the underglow effect. That’s up to you to decide if you want it or not. Personally I dont think it will give it an underglow like what your probably thinking (90’s ricer with a banging system) This light will give you more of a “trucker style running light” and will shine “out” more than “down” so I don’t think it will be the underglow effect.
I had this all written out for you using the curt T-Harness and then something hit me.... using the trailer wiring would work to a point. It has everything your looking for except the separation of turn and brake light signal. So every time you hit the brakes your running lights in the side would illuminate full power. Probably not what your looking for. I know it’s not what I would want.

 

[EagleChief]

That's what I was afraid of - the brake lights causing them to light up full power, or do something weird. But, looking at the cover for the 4-pin, it appears to show the connections as being "left blinker", "right blinker" (arrows pointing opposite direction), then (I'm assuming) running/brake lights.

Now, I do have the 7-pin wiring also, which I tied into for my aux reverse lights. Doesn't that have a separate signal for turn signals?

My other thought was trying to figure where the fuses are located, either under the dash, or in the engine bay. And, using a fuse tap to add in what I need.

Nilight Fuse Holder Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder - 10 Pack, 2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742BZXC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nPmmBb3ZPQ46H

Where could I find the fuses for the turn signal and the entry lights?

I do appreciate your responses and help!


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[EagleChief]

Anyone? I can't figure out where the fuses are located for the turn signals or the courtesy lights are found.


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[firemedic10584]

Anyone? I can't figure out where the fuses are located for the turn signals or the courtesy lights are found.


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I don't think utilizing the fuses will get you the results you're looking for either. If it were me, I'd just tap into the parking light wire and blinker wire from the headlight on each side. You could do it two ways - either solder and heat shrink the connections or use male and female quick disconnects. So in the event you ever want to remove the light connections, you can just unplug them and plug the OEM wire back together. Make sure if you do make cut in the OEM wire, you use a male connection on one end and a female on the other so they will connect back up down the road if you go that route. Just my 2 cents.

 

[adrianp89]

I don't think utilizing the fuses will get you the results you're looking for either. If it were me, I'd just tap into the parking light wire and blinker wire from the headlight on each side. You could do it two ways - either solder and heat shrink the connections or use male and female quick disconnects. So in the event you ever want to remove the light connections, you can just unplug them and plug the OEM wire back together. Make sure if you do make cut in the OEM wire, you use a male connection on one end and a female on the other so they will connect back up down the road if you go that route. Just my 2 cents.

Good advice here.

 

[kad]

To the OP, I think I got this to you in another post, but I'm going to add it here as well for anyone following the issue. You can use one of the below to separate the turn/brake signals from the trailer wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046EKPHY

-K

 

[EagleChief]

Thanks for the input, guys. I just need to figure out how I want to do this. Ugh! Thought it would be easier.


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[EagleChief]

I'm guessing this will be my best option...

1. Install the T-Harness to my stock trailer wiring connection behind the bumper: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-55384-Custom-Wiring-Connector/dp/B0009FJ38Q
2. Wire in the 2way to 3way line converter to the extra 4-pin hookup (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046EKPH...olid=3U0Y0WYHTRCZG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it )
3. Wire in my LED lights to the converted wires for left & right turn signals.
4. Run the entry function wire into the cab and tie into the footwell lights.
5. Could use the fuse for the clearance lights for my running lights using a micro fuse tap. IF I decide to use the running light function.
6. Find a suitable ground on the frame.

Would it matter, or make a difference, to purchase an extra 4-pin trailer connection to wire my light strips to one end, then the other end would be wired to the converter (step 2)? That way, they would be plug and play (so to speak). As long as I match the correct wires up to each other, it should work, right?

Or, would you guys just hard wire the LED strips to the converter?

 

[kad]

I'm guessing this will be my best option...

1. Install the T-Harness to my stock trailer wiring connection behind the bumper: https://www.amazon.com/CURT-55384-Custom-Wiring-Connector/dp/B0009FJ38Q
2. Wire in the 2way to 3way line converter to the extra 4-pin hookup (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046EKPH...olid=3U0Y0WYHTRCZG&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it )
3. Wire in my LED lights to the converted wires for left & right turn signals.
4. Run the entry function wire into the cab and tie into the footwell lights.
5. Could use the fuse for the clearance lights for my running lights using a micro fuse tap. IF I decide to use the running light function.
6. Find a suitable ground on the frame.

Would it matter, or make a difference, to purchase an extra 4-pin trailer connection to wire my light strips to one end, then the other end would be wired to the converter (step 2)? That way, they would be plug and play (so to speak). As long as I match the correct wires up to each other, it should work, right?

Or, would you guys just hard wire the LED strips to the converter?

That's pretty much my planned setup. I'll be hardwireing the converter to the extra 4pin (I'll be removing the connector), making the connections as solder joints with heat shrink tubing, then a plastic wire loom wrapped in Tesa tape over that to run up front. I'll then be using Weatherpak style connectors to hook the side lights to that harness so that I can unhook them without having to cut anything if needed. The weatherpak connectors will be under the hood, away from most possible corrosion causes. If you use an additional 4pin underneath as you described I would just make certain that the connection has a good coating of dielectric grease. I'm not sure what they use on the winter roads in OK, but here in NY they use so much salt that an unprotected connection would be toast in one season.

-K

BTW: Just noticed your sig, I've got an '02 Vulcan 1500 Classic.

 

[EagleChief]

Thanks, Kad! I appreciate your help, and patience.

I've done some wiring stuff in the past, but these newer vehicles and all of their computers have me a little nervous.

Our winters are pretty much uneventful as far as precipitation goes. I think we had 2 snows this past winter, and those were "dustings" at most. Barely covered the grass. Now, when that happens here, the world stops and the roads are coated in sand/salt mixture... more sand, than anything. So, I'm not too worried about salt. But, I'll probably go ahead and coat the connections anyway, just for safe measure.

 

[EagleChief]

Finally got my lights wired up this weekend. I used the 2 harnesses to tie into my trailer lights. I really liked that idea in order to keep from splicing into any existing wiring.

I have my turn signals running off of the trailer wiring. Then I ran my entry lights up to the front of the truck, through the firewall (where the existing wire loom enters the cab), and tied into my footwell lighting.

The turn signals work great and the entry lights work great when I open the doors. But, when I unlock the truck with the fob, they don't come on as I expected them to. Maybe the footwell lights don't come on until the door is open? I've never paid attention to that. Or, maybe they aren't getting a strong enough signal... I don't know.

Overall, I'm happy with them. They are super bright and I like the sequential function for the turn signals! It really lights up the side of the truck! My wife followed me home tonight from dinner, and her only comment was, she couldn't see them from behind me, which is expected. She commented, "well, I'm guessing you'll have to add something like that to the back of the truck, now?" Yep, I can take care of that! [emoji6]

I don't have any pictures yet. I'll try and get some soon and put them on here. Wish I could add a small video clip without using YouTube or something like that.

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[holmanjp]

Finally got my lights wired up this weekend. I used the 2 harnesses to tie into my trailer lights. I really liked that idea in order to keep from splicing into any existing wiring.

I have my turn signals running off of the trailer wiring. Then I ran my entry lights up to the front of the truck, through the firewall (where the existing wire loom enters the cab), and tied into my footwell lighting.

The turn signals work great and the entry lights work great when I open the doors. But, when I unlock the truck with the fob, they don't come on as I expected them to. Maybe the footwell lights don't come on until the door is open? I've never paid attention to that. Or, maybe they aren't getting a strong enough signal... I don't know.

Overall, I'm happy with them. They are super bright and I like the sequential function for the turn signals! It really lights up the side of the truck! My wife followed me home tonight from dinner, and her only comment was, she couldn't see them from behind me, which is expected. She commented, "well, I'm guessing you'll have to add something like that to the back of the truck, now?" Yep, I can take care of that! [emoji6]

I don't have any pictures yet. I'll try and get some soon and put them on here. Wish I could add a small video clip without using YouTube or something like that.

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Bringing this back!
By using the 2 way to 3 way. Do your running board lights work/flash with hazards on?
Or did that option go away, because the of the 2 to 3 way?

By adding that wouldn't the brake lights be the lights flashing while hazards are on?

 

[EagleChief]

The hazards do not work with this setup. I kinda wish they did, though. But, I am good with it like it is.


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[kad]

Finally got my lights wired up this weekend. I used the 2 harnesses to tie into my trailer lights. I really liked that idea in order to keep from splicing into any existing wiring.

I have my turn signals running off of the trailer wiring. Then I ran my entry lights up to the front of the truck, through the firewall (where the existing wire loom enters the cab), and tied into my footwell lighting.

The turn signals work great and the entry lights work great when I open the doors. But, when I unlock the truck with the fob, they don't come on as I expected them to. Maybe the footwell lights don't come on until the door is open? I've never paid attention to that. Or, maybe they aren't getting a strong enough signal... I don't know.

Overall, I'm happy with them. They are super bright and I like the sequential function for the turn signals! It really lights up the side of the truck! My wife followed me home tonight from dinner, and her only comment was, she couldn't see them from behind me, which is expected. She commented, "well, I'm guessing you'll have to add something like that to the back of the truck, now?" Yep, I can take care of that! [emoji6]

I don't have any pictures yet. I'll try and get some soon and put them on here. Wish I could add a small video clip without using YouTube or something like that.

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Sorry I didn't get back to this conversation earlier. I somehow missed the updates. I have mine wired the same and I don't get the hazards on the side lights either (I have to check the trailer next time it's hooked up because I thought I did get hazards on it. If so, the the issue must be in how the Curtis converter works.) However, the white light portion of them does come on when I unlock the truck with the fob, along with the interior footwell lights and the puddle lamps on the mirrors.

Here's how I have the 4 wires hooked up:

• Ground - To Body
• Running Lights - to Cab Lights Circuit (Fuse 79)
• White Lights - Tapped into Interior Footwell lights circuit under driver dash.
  
• Turn Signals - From the trailer lights via a Curtis 2 wire to 3 wire converter.

Here's a quick video showing mine working, please excuse the lousy camera work:


-K