Lsd?

[hampton64]

Is this a lsd?

 

[hampton64]

So if I put both tires off the ground the oposite wheel spins the oposite direction

 

[hemihustlin]

No lsd.

 

[hampton64]

Friction plates?

 

[hampton64]

So lsd?

 

[TRCM]

maybe worn out lsd........old style

 

[hampton64]

Its out of a 2011 with 34k miles doubt its worn out. Hand spinning prob isnt enough friction to grab.

 

[TRCM]

I said old style cuz I was under the impression that all the newer axles had a torque biasing LSD (gear type), not a friction clutch type.

Those 34k spider gears look worn more than the ones in my 350k mile jeep did when I put the locker in it.

Also it don't take long to wear the plates out if the fluid is low or the friction modifier isn't added with the fluid (at least in the old friction plate style I've had)

 

[xtreme762]

From my understanding not adding friction modifier won't ruin the LSD. It'll just act as an open diff. without it. You shouldn't run it without the modifier, though.

Friction modifier does the opposite of what most think it does. Modifier actually creates friction in the plates. It doesn't make them slip.

What I'm trying to figure out is why you pulled an LSD with 34K on it apart?

 

[TRCM]

When the modified isn't added, it does act like an open diff, which lets the plates slip more, which wears them out faster.

Doesn't really wear the plates as much as it does the steels between them.

 

[fasthemiram12]

Zf lsd

 

[hampton64]

Was bored and wanted to know what I had. Only took me a few minutes and a couple beers. So I guess I need to figure out if the oil I put in has a friction modifier in it. Anyone know mobil one syn 75/140?

 

[Etroze86]

It won't unless it states there is a friction modifier in it.

 

[hampton64]

It does looks like im safe

 

[hampton64]

So after doing some more research on these diffs. I think the springs are worn out. Which would explain y it was so easy to take apart. Anyone know where I can get new fiction packs. I may take it to the dealer for some warranty action.

 

[TRCM]

So after doing some more research on these diffs. I think the springs are worn out. Which would explain y it was so easy to take apart. Anyone know where I can get new fiction packs. I may take it to the dealer for some warranty action.

Wait........I thought you told me there was no way it could be worn out with only 34k on it ??




can you add any additonal frictions ? make it tighter like in the olden days ??

 

[hampton64]

Well I would think it wouldnt be being low mileage. But after researching and seein guys havin to put bolts in the axle holes to compress the springs. And me not havin to do that at all. And the amount of silver flake in the old oil. Seems to point to some wear.

 

[jlb]

Don't get your panties in a *** too quickly. I did that, and it cost me $134... I don't know if they changed it in 2010, or 2011, but they went to a zero pre-load LSD. I was under the impression they planned to go to a Torsen style LSD when they talked about updating the diffs for fuel mileage, but apparently this wasn't the case.

I thought my LSD wasn't working properly, but what I think I found out is that they actually just suck big hairy balls. If I come around a tight corner hot, and dig in, a lot of the time I will get a one wheel peel. This condition only seems to exacerbate itself when there is something to limit traction even more like wet roads, or if I try the one tire in the grass, one on pavement thing.

If I come around a corner with a wider line so there is less weight shift, and get into it sooner when traction is more even I can drift the corners, and leave two black lines. If I go in deep ass gravel, and crawl through it in just RWD both tired turn together as expected with no shudder from power bouncing back, and forth. This is also true in mud, on ice, etc.

My belief is that the lack of pre-load means that you need either fairly even traction between the tires, or a reasonably sticky surface to create enough input torque to put force on the clutch plates. As the spider gears are forced to move by the diff case/ring gear, etc they put force on the side gears. Since the spider gears aren't rotating about their longitudinal axis their intermeshing teeth push out on the teeth of the side gears. This forces the side gears outward slightly, and they come into contact with the clutch plates/belleville springs "locking" the two axle shafts together. The harder the spider gears push on the side gears, the more torque that can be transferred from side to side as the clutch plates/belleville springs compress more. See image below ( I know it is an open diff, but it shows which gears I am talking about, and why it does what it does):

However if the traction differential is too much at the beginning, the zero pre-load means that the diff just acts like an open diff, and you spin one tire like a *******. This only gets worse if you pull your ABS fuse because you don't like traction control/ABS. The reason for this is that the traction control will blip the rear brakes to reduce the slip/spin which then creates a higher torque load in the rear diff allowing for a moment of torque biasing until the tire in the grass starts to spin again, then the brakes blip, etc. If you romp on it with traction control on in a situation like this you will notice you leave a little series of black rubber marks every time your truck releases the brakes.

All in all what this diff does is give you better fuel mileage, I mean suck big hairy balls. Situations where you used the drag your inside tire on tight corners no longer exist, and while this is good for fuel mileage, it means a lot of times when the pre-load used to allow you to hook up no longer work. I believe with the zero-preload the ass end off the ground will cause both tires to spin in opposite directions as if there was an open diff inside, but I have not been able to test this theory.

Hope this helps, and please correct me if I am wrong in any way!

 

[TRCM]

Well, no issues with mine at all.....in fact, there are times I wish it was more of a limited slip than it is




But, you never drug the inside tire, it is what gets power in a turn....the outside tire is accelerated by the ground since it has to cover more distance (greater arc) in the same amount of time, therefore it MUST spin faster then the engine driven tire

When running a detroit or similar locker, the clicking you hear when turning is the over running of the locking lugs caused by the the outside tire spinning faster than the diff to cover the longer distance traveled during the turn

 

[DavidRam]

Not sure how on or off topic I am... is someone making an lsd for 2011+ yet, that would be a direct swap with oem one??