Measuring the Signals on the Premium Alpine System & Setup Advice

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rpr

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I posted this on another forum but for those of you who don't visit that site I thought I would post it here as many of you have been very helpful for my install.

I have taken quite a few measurements off my system and thought it may be helpful for some. Keep in mind all of this applies to a 2014 Ram with the Premium Alpine system, I believe the Premium Alpine system prior to 2013 was different.

There are some differing opinions as to frequency response on the 9 speakers and the sub in this system. While system RTA measurements are helpful, they don't really show what's driving those results, so I started to focus on the strength of the signals being fed to each speaker at different frequencies, as well as the quality of the signal using an o-scope.

The Premium Alpine system has relatively severe changes in voltages being fed to each speaker at different frequencies. So while technically a speaker may have a response at say 1000Hz, it may be anemic at best and effectively not even there in relation to the dB output at other frequencies.

The aggregate frequency response of the whole system is significantly lacking roughly between 650Hz and 1,200+ Hz. Several of us 2014 Ram owners with the Premium system have RTA measurements for the whole system that show a cliff somewhere within this spectrum, although it slightly differs from one truck to the next. Originally I and others thought this was due to the cabin, but after taking quite a few measurements, there appears to be a gap in the signal in this region from the front stage. If you use the rear speakers for summing you can eliminate this, although that may not be ideal for some.

In its simplest terms, overall dB response is dependent on the voltage the factory amp sends to each speaker at varying frequencies. So I found it helpful to measure the actual voltages being sent to each speaker at varying frequencies to get a better feel for what was going on.

If it helps anyone, here are my readings. A good rule of thumb I found when reviewing the below is that you're really not getting much dB output for any speaker output signals that are less than 1V.

Voltages from Factory Amp (2nd number is with Surround Mode On)

Dash Mids:
0.014 to 0.018 (50 HZ)
0.62 to 0.79V (1KHz)
2.394 to 2.977V (3.5KHz)
3.39 to 4.24V (5KHz)

Front Doors:
5.80 to 7.22V (50 Hz)
0.506 to 0.630V (1KHz)
0.033 to 0.044V (3.5KHz)
0.011 to 0.016V (5KHz)

Rear Doors:
3.42 to 2.76V (50Hz)
5.26 to 4.27V (1KHz)
7.91 to 6.42V (3.5KHz)
8.21 to 6.66V (5KHz)

Sub:
7.76 to 9.78V (50 Hz)
You will see up front that none of the speakers are getting much of a signal at 1KHz. I also took measurements of the front door speakers below 50Hz and they drop off a cliff, so I would not use them for signals between 20Hz and 50Hz, but I did not record those readings.

The most troubling and uncorrectable aspect of the Premium Alpine system is that the HU (at least mine) begins to clip at a volume of 22 on a scale of 38, and many of the signals are distorted way before they start to clip in a conventional sense. I used an o-scope to measure all the speaker signals, and the dash mids are significantly distorted at 1kHz and below, the rears are distorted throughout their entire frequency range (and these are the closest to a full range signal for summing purposes) and the sub is very distorted below 50Hz. My signal distortion was so bad the dealer was willing to exchange my factory amp. I will be installing it this weekend, but I would actually be surprised if it's much better.

So no matter what you invest in this system, LOC, DSP, etc., there is only so much you can do with it. You can get good results, but if you are an audiophile, you may not be satisfied with it. I had problems with a high noise floor just using the speaker level inputs on my DSP (Bit One) due to the low voltages from the factory amp that requires you to turn up the gains on the amps. I worked around this by adding an LC6I LOC to convert the speaker level inputs to RCAs, and I am now using the RCA pre-ins on the DSP with much better results. Not sure I would recommend this though, as there are too many components each with their own limitations and clipping points and tuning the system is a bear. Any imperfect adjustments will just get compounded downstream.

It's also interesting to note that I've been trying to figure out exactly what the Surround Mode setting does. Based on the above readings, it appears to increase the voltages to all speakers except the rears by 25%. It actually reduces the voltage being sent to the rears by 25%. If I did my math correctly (correct me if I'm wrong here), this translates to a significant increase in RMS power to the speakers in the front stage and the sub (~60%). However, it does change the sound stage significantly if you are using the rears as fill. I tried tuning my system both ways, Surround Mode on and off, and I found better results tuning it with it off. I will still occasionally turn it on depending on the type of music I am listening to. I think the Surround Mode also changes the EQ curves, but I can not confirm that.

One more point, you MUST use your DSP to control the volume on any system with a DSP. The factory amp uses dynamic EQ curves that vary drastically with volume, extremely muddy bass at low volumes and no bass at high volumes. So you need to tune your DSP with your HU at the maximum volume it will play at cleanly (22 on a scale of 38 for me) and leave it there, then tune your system.

Anyway, I hope this helps some fellow Premium Alpine sufferers, and if I'm off base on anything, let me know. Tx.
 
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lizardking

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Interesting find. I have no dip between 650hz and 1khz. In fact, I need to lower the EQ in that region using my Helix DSP Pro. I'm summing all the channels in the front using the software though. Not even using the rears. I don't lose any bass either as you mentioned, but I think the summing takes care of that. I only use the dash, front doors and the sub channel into my Helix Pro. Running 3-way active. I can actually run my system without the subwoofer. The Scans in the front door can pound in the sub region.
 
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rpr

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Would be interesting to know the part number and date code on your factory amp.

I'm currently installing the new factory amp the dealer gave me yesterday and it has a new part number, built in late October 2014 as opposed to my original amp that was built in early March 2014.
 

lizardking

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On another note. When tuning, I find that anywhere between 18 and 20 works great when measuring with Pink Noise. I've ran my system all the way up the volume range and the frequency response after tuning stays the same for me. Doesn't matter if my volume is at 13 or up to 26, which is the highest I've gone. The RTA shows the same response that I set when tuning.
 

lizardking

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Would be interesting to know the part number and date code on your factory amp.

I'm currently installing the new factory amp the dealer gave me yesterday and it has a new part number, built in late October 2014 as opposed to my original amp that was built in early March 2014.


My truck was built in the summer of 2014. July....I think.
 

lizardking

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In my system, I had to tame the 1.2k to 1.6k and the 400hz-800hz allot. Again at the 160hz to 315hz. The system also takes allot of EQ work "lowering" in the 4khz on up as well. Huge spikes in the upper region. I have tweeters set at -7db in the Helix software and still need to tame the crap out of the upper region.
 

lizardking

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I keep the EQ flat in the 8.4AN and the surround off as well. I also attentuate the rear by keeping the fader control front bias a few clicks.
 
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rpr

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The most troubling and uncorrectable aspect of the Premium Alpine system is that the HU (at least mine) begins to clip at a volume of 22 on a scale of 38, and many of the signals are distorted way before they start to clip in a conventional sense. I used an o-scope to measure all the speaker signals, and the dash mids are significantly distorted at 1kHz and below, the rears are distorted throughout their entire frequency range (and these are the closest to a full range signal for summing purposes) and the sub is very distorted below 50Hz. My signal distortion was so bad the dealer was willing to exchange my factory amp. I will be installing it this weekend, but I would actually be surprised if it's much better.

As an update, I installed the new factory amp today and the distorted waveforms are the same. However, the EQ seems to have been changed and the boomy bass is mostly gone from the system. The replacement amp had a different part number than my original one, so (subjectively) it appears they changed something in the factory programmed dynamic EQ. It's actually a bit light on the bass now.

Here's the find of the day...the signal distortion and early clipping at an HU volume of 22 is only when using the CD Player (which I almost never use). My signals are ALL clean up to an HU volume of 31 when using the Aux or USB ports. So the CD player is either bad or just poorly deigned, my bet is on poorly designed as Dengland also had the same distorted waveforms from the dash mids at 1KHz that I had when playing tones off a CD.

I retuned the Bit One using setup files off a thumb drive in the USB port with the HU set at a volume of 31 and I now have much stronger signals, the noise floor is mostly gone, and I was able to ditch the LOC.

I also downloaded the $4.99 Speaker Pop app by Studio Six Digital (with credit to Dengland for giving me a head up about it), and found that all my speakers were out of phase except for my tweeters. I am absolutely certain that they were all wired according to Chrysler's wiring diagrams, so you guys may want to check this on your installs. They do sound marginally better, fuller and slightly smoother.

So some progress, but now my Alpine PDX amps are running very hot, and my amp gains are still all the way down. My speaker level input voltages even when leaving my HU volume at 31 do not exceed 11 volts, so that really shouldn't be heating the amps up.

Two steps forward, one back...
 
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dengland

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I keep the EQ flat in the 8.4AN and the surround off as well. I also attenuate the rear by keeping the fader control front bias a few clicks.
I ended up doing the same with the fader control.

6T5LSXJ7.jpg
 

dengland

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So some progress, but now my Alpine PDX amps are running very hot, and my amp gains are still all the way down. My speaker level input voltages even when leaving my HU volume at 31 do not exceed 11 volts, so that really shouldn't be heating the amps up.

Two steps forward, one back...

Any update on this part?
 

LB3711

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For any true audiophiles the OEM alpine system is usless to upgrade since the factory amp sends certain signal bands the speakers. Id rather have more full range going to my doors to take full effect to the speakers i put in there.
 

clays laramie

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I agree cd is the worst source in the truck. I use sd cards for music..
 
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rpr

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Any update on this part?

They are still running hot, grounds were checked and look good to me.

They are both grounded to the same point, bare steel under the carpet under the rear seats. I get a reading of 0 ohms resistance between that point and the negative terminal on the battery.

Anyone have any thoughts on that grounding point?

One thing I did notice is that they used JL Audio 60amp power wire for the grounding wire. It took some research, but these are 5AWG, not the recommended 4AWG. However, they are pure copper and JL says they compare or exceed the capabilities of lesser quality 4AWG.

Thoughts?
 

dengland

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They are still running hot, grounds were checked and look good to me.

They are both grounded to the same point, bare steel under the carpet under the rear seats. I get a reading of 0 ohms resistance between that point and the negative terminal on the battery.


Thoughts?

Dang. Those are Class D, right?

I sanded the paint off around one of the seat bolts. That is where my ground is. The lug is under the right rear seat bolt.
 
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rpr

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Dang. Those are Class D, right?

I sanded the paint off around one of the seat bolts. That is where my ground is. The lug is under the right rear seat bolt.

I actually eyed that spot and thought that might be better but I got a much more finicky resistance reading off that spot when connected to the negative battery terminal.
 

lizardking

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I ran 1/0 through the floor board straight to the frame. Nothing is going to be any better than that unless you go up to the battery. I learned years ago that grounding to the frame was better then any spot on the body.
 

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