Mono Amp/Dual Sub Wiring Help

[MarshRam]

I am going to be moving a couple amps behind my rear seat and while I am at it, I am going to rewire the entire system. Unfortunately, I have no friends that know car audio systems and I am completely illiterate with car audio nowadays. The system was in the truck when I bought it and I am slowly replacing each piece. I don't want to assume the previous owner knew exactly what he was doing, especially since the 4 channel amp for the door speakers did end up burning out, which I have since replaced. But in messing with the 4 channel recently, the doors will now go out if the volume is raised to high for just a few minutes, so something is screwed up.

After a bit of reading to further educate myself on this, I think I am slowly starting to get it, but would really like to get input from those who really know this stuff. I am probably more confused on understanding the specs on my amp below and how to best utilize it since it seems it gives me a couple options to play with.

I am starting with the subs and will move on to my 4 channel amp next which I know is wired right, but probably not tuned correctly. The subs will need to be wired in parallel. Here are the specs on the speakers and mono amp below. I am sure these are not the best combination, but want to know what would be the best wiring to get the most out of this without destroying anything.

Feel free to just point me to the right diagram here if that is easier: http://www.bcae1.com/
or the proper selection criteria here under the mono amp/2 subs selections: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-O6fbiR4NZ6i/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html


1 Mono AMP Specs:
2 Ohm stable mono operation
RMS power 4 Ohms 1000W X 1
Max power 2 Ohms 2000W X 1
Min. Speaker impedance 2 Ohm
THD at RMS output 0.01%
Frequency response: 9Hz - 130Hz (+/- 3dB)
Signal-to-noise ratio >105dB
Damping factor 125+
Bass Boost Variable 0 to +12dB
Variable low pass crossover: 40-130Hz

2 Subs Dual DVS Rockford Fosgate 12" R2's:
250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Power Rating
dual 4-ohm subwoofer with 500 watts maximum power handling (250 watts RMS)
frequency response: 43-250
sensitivity: 89 dB
power range: 50-250 watts RMS (500 watts peak power)

 

[TomT]

It sounds like your four channel is overheating. What model amp is it and what speakers are connected to it?

Also, what model is your sub amp?

 

[MarshRam]

It sounds like your four channel is overheating. What model amp is it and what speakers are connected to it?

Also, what model is your sub amp?

Sub amp is junk (Sound Storm Lab Aero AE120M Mono 2000W) , but I need to make it work for now. Yes, I believe the 4 channel is overheating and it didn't start until I started screwing around with trying to tune it. I got more research do there!

Here are the specs on the 4 channel amp powering all 4 pioneer 6x9 speakers:

Kicker DXA250.4
RMS power rating: 4 ohms, 30W x 4 channels
2 ohms, 60W x 4 channels
Bridged, 4 ohms: 125W x 2 channels
Max power output: 500W
features 2 or mono channel operation
Signal-to-noise ratio: 95 dB
KickEQ bass boost control (0 to +12 dB bass boost at 40Hz)
Variable high-pass filter (50-200Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Variable low-pass filter (50-200Hz, 24 dB/octave)
8 gauge power and ground wiring
Pioneer 3 Way 6x9 TS-A6966R
power range: 5-60 watts RMS (420 watts peak power)
frequency response: 28-36,000 Hz
sensitivity: 92 dB

 

[BWL]

If the rockford subs are dual 4ohm you're stuck running 4ohm out of the amp. So wire the subs in parallel to 2ohm and pair the subs in series to get back to 4ohm. The amp runs 1000w@4ohm so that'll be right at the recommended limit and be easier on the amp anyways.

 

[BWL]

I see now the 500w is peak. You'll have to be extra careful with the amp if the 1000 is rms@4ohm I see you have a 2ohm peak so maybe it's only 1000 peak@4ohm

 

[MarshRam]

If the rockford subs are dual 4ohm you're stuck running 4ohm out of the amp. So wire the subs in parallel to 2ohm and pair the subs in series to get back to 4ohm. The amp runs 1000w@4ohm so that'll be right at the recommended limit and be easier on the amp anyways.

Thanks, I don't know why I can't get this to click in my noggin, I have never had a hard time like this figuring things out. So from the crutchfield site, it looks like there are three options given for the mono amp and my speaker combination (below). I wish one of you guys lived close by, you could probably get it all through my head if I could spend a couple hours talking with you, lol. I am going to have two more cars to do, so I need to learn this.

Choices, choices and more choices....
2 DVC 2-ohm mono
2 DVC 4-ohm mono
2 DVC 4-ohm mono low imp


https://www.crutchfield.com/S-O6fbiR4NZ6i/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

 

[BWL]

Thanks, I don't know why I can't get this to click in my noggin, I have never had a hard time like this figuring things out. So from the crutchfield site, it looks like there are three options given for the mono amp and my speaker combination (below). I wish one of you guys lived close by, you could probably get it all through my head if I could spend a couple hours talking with you, lol. I am going to have two more cars to do, so I need to learn this.

Choices, choices and more choices....
2 DVC 2-ohm mono
2 DVC 4-ohm mono
2 DVC 4-ohm mono low imp


https://www.crutchfield.com/S-O6fbiR4NZ6i/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

Either or the first 2 is the correct wiring just Dual 4ohm gives you 4 and dual 2 gives you 2. The bottom one would give you 1ohm and overload the amp.

 

[BWL]

Also would only give you 1 ohm with dual 4ohm. Dual 2 wired that way would be half an ohm.

 

[TomT]

Here’s a diagram from Crutchfield.

 

[MarshRam]

Either or the first 2 is the correct wiring just Dual 4ohm gives you 4 and dual 2 gives you 2. The bottom one would give you 1ohm and overload the amp.

View attachment 128775 Here’s a diagram from Crutchfield.

Got it, Thanks TomT and BWL. I see those first two wiring diagrams are actually identical.

 

[MarshRam]

Well, thanks again, just popped out the first sub and it is quite obvious it was not wired correctly.

 

[BWL]

Looks like rewiring it was a good idea

 

[Reddzeppelin]

On your door speakers for your mid and highs do you bridge the speakers

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[BWL]

For the front amplifier I'd disconnect the speakers and amplifier and check for resistance disconnected. It should be an open circuit. Also check between each wire and ground. There is always a chance the previous owner ran a speaker wire that has been cut or worn through and found a path to ground causing your issues.

 

[MarshRam]

On your door speakers for your mid and highs do you bridge the speakers

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I didn't, the 4 channel amp runs each door speaker per channel. My highs in the dash are not amped, rather connected directly to the headunit.

 

[MarshRam]

For the front amplifier I'd disconnect the speakers and amplifier and check for resistance disconnected. It should be an open circuit. Also check between each wire and ground. There is always a chance the previous owner ran a speaker wire that has been cut or worn through and found a path to ground causing your issues.

Yeah, I'm learning all of that now. After getting the subs wired right and making a few basic adjustments to the 4 channel amp powering my mids, it is better and no overheating/cutting out anymore. Did it all by ear. Will get the meter out this weekend when I have more time to play with it to dial it and make sure there are no issues with wiring as you suggested.