Moving and have a question about moutain hauling

[Brenden Allen]

Hello, I am moving from Nebraska to Florida and have to Tow a 2004 Chevy Impala behind me in my 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 sport. I'm a young guy not alot of towing experience and im worried about the down hill grades in the moutain areas. Besides riding the breaks down hill which i dont wanna do whats the best way to control speed in the truck while towing.

I've heard about engine breaking and heard you can do it in an automatic but kind of unclear how to do it effectively with no harm to the transmission.

 

[MADDOG]

Use Tow/Haul mode and when you are at the top of a grade, slow down before heading over the hill.

 

[Brenden Allen]

The Tow/Haul mode will keep the truck from going to fast down hill with the help of breaking right?(sorry for sounding stupid just the first time ill be towing down the steep grades)

 

[billyw]

Tow/Haul will allow you to lock out the high gears, so the truck stays in a lower gear, helping to keep you slowed down. Just don't allow your speeds to get too high in the first place. It's better to slow down a lot, then coast versus riding your brake for long periods. Make sure your trailer has adequate tongue weight (10-15%) to prevent sway. Air up you tires to their max, which will help control too.

 

[TRCM]

From your title, I was gonna ask what truck you had to haul a mountain around.....



But, seriously, be careful, don't speed, use tow/haul, and when you are going downhill, as was said above, it's better to brake hard and quick, then coast for awhile so the brakes can cool off than to ride the brakes constantly.

Make sure the trailer is loaded properly with 10-15% tongue weight, has adequate sway control, and the brakes on it are working properly.

Downshifting will be done by the truck itself in tow/haul, but if that isn't enough, you can drop down a gear using the shifter yourself, just don't over-rev the engine by downshifting too low, or you could make things worse. The trans may even prevent you from downshifting too far by not actually shifting the gear, I don't remember and my owners manual doesn't cover it.

Climbing grades, tow/haul will use a lower gear, and you can again downshift to use the lowest gear you can and still maintain speed, which will also help with the trans heating up from torque converter slippage.


Make sure you read your manual, and if you don't have one, download it and read that.

 

[VernDiesel]

Beh fellas. Brenden have a local dealership add the optional factory trailer brake controller.

You can buy it off a Mopar discount site but you will still need the dealership to flash the computer for it. It’s not expensive.

You will still utilize the tow haul feature the two will work together.

This is the right smart safe way to do it. You will lean on the trailer brake some as needed to help control speed down the grade without heating your truck brakes. Also it will quickly stop any sway or trailer push.

The TBC will allow you to set the gain on your dash from one to ten. This is so you can set it to say 5 with an empty trailer so you are not locking the trailer tires when you stop. Set it on say 8 or 9 when the car is loaded for more stopping support from your trailer.

If you are renting this trailer from Uhaul etc they will help or instruct you. You will still need a hitch for your receiver. Use an adjustable hitch as the loaded trailer needs to be level while hooked to your truck. Online Andersen Rapid Hitch is good simple & reasonably priced. Walmart etc fixed hitched often help lead to horror stories. You cannot have the rear sagging & headlights pointing in oncoming traffics eyes or you will be an accident waiting to happen.

If you are additionally going to load the truck bed heavy even just some cheap $100 in coil air bags that you can insert yourself will go a long way. Or add on Sumu neophrene helper springs.

EDIT some rental trailers come with surge brakes which don’t require a TBC. That said the trailer still uses the same electrical connection so you can utilize your TBC and still be safer and have more control as listed above.

 

[TRCM]

If you are additionally going to load the truck bed heavy even just some cheap $100 in coil air bags that you can insert yourself will go a long way. Or add on Sumu neophrene helper springs.

EDIT some rental trailers come with surge brakes which don’t require a TBC. That said the trailer still uses the same electrical connection so you can utilize your TBC and still be safer and have more control as listed above.

1) If you are going to load the truck bed heavy, then you will very very likely be overweight if the trailer has any weight in it. These trucks have a very limited cargo capacity when towing unless you go over. All the coils will do is make it easier to go over the limits. If you need coils or helper springs at all, you have too much weight in the truck and/or trailer, especially for the trip you have planned.

2) Most UHaul trailers use surge brakes, and as such, the TBC will not help you at all. I'm pretty sure based on the last time I tried to rent a trailer from them, the only ones they rent that use electric brakes require you to rent their truck as well to tow it.

3) The connections as far as lights and such are the same tho, no matter if it has electric or surge brakes.

4) Leaning on or using the trailer brakes alone is not a good idea AT ALL, as it will lock them up quickly, especially if not set right or you are not use to doing so, and it will heat them up pretty quick as they are not designed to stop the trailer and a 5500 lb truck, only the trailer.
Once heated up, they will not work when you really need them to. Use the TBC as it is designed and brake normally....when you do, IT will add in the extra braking power from the trailer based on the pressure you put on the brake pedal and vehicle speed. That way, both the truck & trailer are braking together, and you will slow down faster without heating up the brakes from either.


.

 

[mohemipar]

Not sure if someone else said it and I missed it, but also make sure your brakes themselves are good. Don't head out on that trip with worn out brakes.

I would also change the oil, check all fluids, bring an air compressor. Clean the throttle body and clean/replace air filter. Etc. 2011 isn't exactly a brand new truck anymore. I'd prep it good for that long of a trip, even if I wasn't towing a car behind me.

 

[TRCM]

Not sure if someone else said it and I missed it, but also make sure your brakes themselves are good. Don't head out on that trip with worn out brakes.

I would also change the oil, check all fluids, bring an air compressor. Clean the throttle body and clean/replace air filter. Etc. 2011 isn't exactly a brand new truck anymore. I'd prep it good for that long of a trip, even if I wasn't towing a car behind me.

If you do change the brakes, make sure you put some miles on them before you leave....don't want to need your brakes towing and have them glaze on you due to not being broken in well.

 

[Brenden Allen]

Not sure if someone else said it and I missed it, but also make sure your brakes themselves are good. Don't head out on that trip with worn out brakes.

I would also change the oil, check all fluids, bring an air compressor. Clean the throttle body and clean/replace air filter. Etc. 2011 isn't exactly a brand new truck anymore. I'd prep it good for that long of a trip, even if I wasn't towing a car behind me.

Yeah i plan on changing out all that before i go. Just gotta wait for lovely tax time to roll around.

 

[Wahrsuul]

Let me guess, USAF? Anyway, these guys are right - the TBC is worth the money for that load in the mountains. You could use the southern route and avoid some of that, but the TBC will still come in handy.

 

[KansasArt]

Depending on your timetable, you could head south through KS, OK and pick up I 10 in TX and head east. Avoids the mountains altogether.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtofell]

Great info so far and the only other thing I'd add is more of a general towing thing - familiarize yourself with how/what causes a trailer to sway and be ready to react properly. It can make the difference between an accident and not. Basically, sway is caused by the trailer pushing on back of the truck and it has nowhere to go so it just starts swaying back and forth. It can push on the back of the truck for a variety of reasons - a large truck passing and pushing a burst of wind, truck brakes doing more work than trailer brakes down a hill, etc.

Anyway, to save your bacon you need to be ready to stiffen the connection between the truck and trailer and cause tension rather than slack. This can be accomplished by accelerating and/or tugging on the trailer brakes ONLY to cause the trailer to drag. With folks newer to towing I really advise to focus on the trailer brake and to stay off your truck brakes. Trusting someone to accelerate in an emergency is a pretty tall order for all but the most experienced folks.

Just be ready and have a plan if the trailer starts to whip around on you. Usually, it would just be to let off gas and brake and apply trailer brake. During tense times towing I often drive with my finger right over the trailer brake lever in my truck as it's really my best weapon when the **** hits the fan.

All of the above only applies when you have a separate controller inside the truck. As someone mentioned, Uhaul trailers have inertial (automatic) brakes and none of what I said really applies.

I've towed both big RVs and Uhual auto carriers quite a bit and the auto carriers are generally a lot easier. The weight is all concentrated lower to the ground and much less out of the wind. I'd prefer have manual control over the brake but did fine with the inertial type.

 

[Docpaulo]

Sorry to be a negative but i dont think you should be towing that much that long without some experience..in these winter conditions

Theres a lot you need to learn... an improperly setup rig will be dangerous and no fun.

And the one best advice is hit a cat weigh scale before you go and make sure all your weights are in spec... tongue weight, front and rear axle weight

I towed a 6000lb cargo trailer with an ml350 up and down idaho and utah in snow... it was no fun but it worked ok

A surge brake rental trailer can be dangerous since you have no control over it... i would not tow that heavy with a uhaul rental

I would buy a deck trailer and sell it at your destination. so you can have in cab brake control...

I would not tow that heavy without in cab brake control

Lastly make sure tire pressure is good and you dont exceed payload capacity as was mentioned...

I see people load up their bed and the front tires are under loaded which can cause steering issue

Safer and more fun to ship that car... 1000$ is cheap compared to an accident...

 

[VernDiesel]

TRCM The point being TW plus bedload can easily get to rear sag & front axle unload. You should load & scale these coil suspension 1500s you will learn quick.

When you can’t use a WDH such as with typical Uhaul then airbags to a point (unless GROSSLY overloaded at which point the bags & rear axle start to act like a pry bar and axis point) help to improve control. You had already correctly mentioned to Cat scale the load.

You can definately have sag & front lift without being over axle or over GVWR. So the bags used with a tiny amount of common sense or your suggestion of scaleing the load will be functional as designed & sold. IE they do more than make it easier to overload.

Your statement of if you need coils or helper springs at all, you have too much weight in the truck and or trailer. Is false. Is it easy to accomplish yes but again that is why the scale is recommended. It’s also easy to improve control with the bags without overloading the truck.

Spend time with many loads at the scales with one of these coil spring 1500s as I have and you will prove it to yourself.

2. Yes most Uhaul etc rental trailers come with a surge brake setup and as such that would be correct.

4. No one said anything about being a complete idiot and useing a TBC in the manner you describe. AT ALL. Did I not explain setting the TBC & why?

 

[Brenden Allen]

Love the advice and eveythig...let me give abit more info. The dolly/Auto transport will be rented from UHaul, so what i can do is limited in terms of messing with the trailer. Can i put a TBC on and use it with a UHaul trailer or will they say its not allowed since its a rental?

 

[TRCM]

TRCM The point being TW plus bedload can easily get to rear sag & front axle unload. You should load & scale these coil suspension 1500s you will learn quick.

When you can’t use a WDH such as with typical Uhaul then airbags to a point (unless GROSSLY overloaded at which point the bags & rear axle start to act like a pry bar and axis point) help to improve control. You had already correctly mentioned to Cat scale the load.

You can definately have sag & front lift without being over axle or over GVWR. So the bags used with a tiny amount of common sense or your suggestion of scaleing the load will be functional as designed & sold. IE they do more than make it easier to overload.

Your statement of if you need coils or helper springs at all, you have too much weight in the truck and or trailer. Is false. Is it easy to accomplish yes but again that is why the scale is recommended. It’s also easy to improve control with the bags without overloading the truck.

Spend time with many loads at the scales with one of these coil spring 1500s as I have and you will prove it to yourself.

2. Yes most Uhaul etc rental trailers come with a surge brake setup and as such that would be correct.

4. No one said anything about being a complete idiot and useing a TBC in the manner you describe. AT ALL. Did I not explain setting the TBC & why?

I took you saying "lean on the trailer brake" as meaning to use it alone.....as that is the exact term I have seen and heard others use to do just that. If that's not what you meant, sorry.

Using a scale to find out your weight loaded & unloaded is a very good idea.

Sorry, but I stand by my statement about if you have sag you have too much weight. It doesn't matter if it is from a load in the bed, or tongue weight, or both combined....if you have sag, you have too much weight.

I understand what you are saying about sag, but waayy too often people but air bags or helper springs on, and suddenly they are loading the truck till it sags again, which would be way over weight.

You can use a WDH on a uhaul trailer, you just have to have trailer brackets that bolt on (vice weld on). The ones on my camper that I use with my WDH can be easily removed from the camper and bolted onto a uhaul trailer with just a 9/16th wrench....and is honestly the best thing to do.

 

[TRCM]

Love the advice and eveythig...let me give abit more info. The dolly/Auto transport will be rented from UHaul, so what i can do is limited in terms of messing with the trailer. Can i put a TBC on and use it with a UHaul trailer or will they say its not allowed since its a rental?

Does the trailer have electric brakes or hydraulic/surge brakes ?? That is what determines if the TBC will be worth it or not for this trip.

Does the trailer have provision for a WDH ? Can you use one ?

 

[HvyDuty]

Your 1500 Hemi Ram will handle that 3500 lb Impala with ease, especially if you are pulling it on a tandem axle car hauler. The U-haul one is among the heaviest at about 2210 lbs empty. As posted the surge brakes won't help you going down hills until you hit the truck brakes. But then again electric brakes won't either until you hit the truck brakes (you can manually activate them with a controller, but only if you get into a sway/emergency situation).

So your looking at 5800-6000 lbs total, again lighter if you are going with a commercial car hauler trailer. Easy for your truck, just leave it in tow/haul.

You could Uhaul dolly tow that FWD Impala and would be cheaper and even easier on your truck, just don't get into a position where you need to back up, ain't gonna happen with a dolly tow.

You are young, so fight the urge to keep up with traffic/speed. Don't exceed the speed limits and check the air in the trailer tires too (I've rented uhauls with underinflated tires before). Leave plenty of space in front of you to stop, don't tailgate, take wider turns etc.

 

[Brenden Allen]

Does the trailer have electric brakes or hydraulic/surge brakes ?? That is what determines if the TBC will be worth it or not for this trip.

Does the trailer have provision for a WDH ? Can you use one ?

The more bulky Auto Transport that Uhaul rents has surge breaks but the small tow dolly has nothing