Multiple cylinder misfire- dealer said it was the lifters and cam.

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Crosby231

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I’ve gotten the lifters out and they look perfectly fine. Two independent shops and the dealer said the same thing. Engine replacement. Should I continue down this path and pull the cam? I had two cylinders misfiring along with really loud knocking.
 

ramffml

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What oil were you running and what was your oil change interval like?
 
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Crosby231

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Just running the oil it called for. I always change at 3500 miles no matter what the book says.
 

Burla

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There was zero scuffing on the side of lifter body? on the two cylinders that were misfiring. No scuffing on posts?
 

Wild one

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I’ve gotten the lifters out and they look perfectly fine. Two independent shops and the dealer said the same thing. Engine replacement. Should I continue down this path and pull the cam? I had two cylinders misfiring along with really loud knocking.
Post some decent close up photo's of all 16 lifters,especially the bottom roller part,and the holes where the pins are on the MDS lifters,as you could have a collasped lifter
The knocking would be what i'd be worried about if the lifters and cam are good
What was your oil pressure when this happened
 
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Crosby231

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There was zero scuffing on the side of lifter body? on the two cylinders that were misfiring. No scuffing on posts?
You know I didn’t check that honestly. I was checking for the rollers to have damage themselves. I didn’t realize the sides could indicate issues. I’ll check. Thanks!
 
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Crosby231

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Post some decent close up photo's of all 16 lifters,especially the bottom roller part,and the holes where the pins are on the MDS lifters,as you could have a collasped lifter
The knocking would be what i'd be worried about if the lifters and cam are good
What was your oil pressure when this happened
Oil pressure was fine. Never had anything wrong. One day I got a check engine light, heard nothing, checked it later after the knocking started and saw misfires on 1/4.
 

Burla

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You know I didn’t check that honestly. I was checking for the rollers to have damage themselves. I didn’t realize the sides could indicate issues. I’ll check. Thanks!
The sides is what causes hemi tick.
 

Burla

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The roller damage/ cam lobe is what causes the misfire, hemi tick is the lifter failing top lift smoothly. That creates a "tick". That is why when you are able to stop the ticking, you stop the damage. Many times even with a smoothed cam lob the roller can be fine, or not fine, just depends how bad the pressure is or the quality of rollers. Even when they "fixed" the roller bearings 2016, you still have hemi tick in hemi's. Most guys who solve their tick with a lubrication strategy, save their cam for an early demise. Mind you some times cam fail without ticking. It is not 100% perfect.

The science of "molybdenum". It lessons the coefficient of friction on perpendicular forces, IE lifters lifting. This is why the two known successful lubrication strategies were effective, both are centered around moly, one 50% success rate the other 80% success rate from polling 100's of trucks. So when their is ticking you have friction on perpendicular forces of lifters, you add the moly, and in time usually 500 miles or less, the tick goes away. Fits the paper on the moly plate, if it was something else making these ticks go silent like viscosity or base oils, the tick would stop right away, but since we have ticks go quiet all the way out to 2200 miles and 1700 miles and most 500 miles, you know it took time and pressure for the plating to happen, which is what the white paper says. Yes sometimes the ticks go away right away, but it is the ones that take time that reveal the truth about the moly plate.

The roller/cam lobe connection is most benefited from zddp, it doesnt require time or pressure to plate and it not perpendicular, it plates very easily. However, this plate is not enough to stop hemi tick, we proved that early on.
 

Wild one

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Oil pressure was fine. Never had anything wrong. One day I got a check engine light, heard nothing, checked it later after the knocking started and saw misfires on 1/4.
Make sure the pins in the side of the lifters are actually inline with their respective holes,if a pin happens to get misplaced the cup falls out of place and you end up with a collapsed lifter.
 

Dusty

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...or, because Hemi tick and lifter roller lock up has been so popularized on the web, the dealer jumped to a conclusion. A while back I posted a video of a 5.7 that was proclaimed with a cam/lifter failure by one repair shop, and another found the problem was a bad fuel injector. A good scan tool and someone who knows how to use it can really help with successful diagnosis.

Regards,
Dusty

2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 104562 miles.
 
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Crosby231

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...or, because Hemi tick and lifter roller lock up has been so popularized on the web, the dealer jumped to a conclusion. A while back I posted a video of a 5.7 that was proclaimed with a cam/lifter failure by one repair shop, and another found the problem was a bad fuel injector. A good scan tool and someone who knows how to use it can really help with successful diagnosis.

Regards,
Dusty

2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 104562 miles.
Man….im really REALLY feeling like this is going to happen to me. I’m very worried my cam will be perfectly fine and I’ll have done all this for no reason.
 

Mr300

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I was in a very similar situation. Sudden rough running engine. Repair shop spent a week diagnosing. Decided it was a bad lifter that ruined the cam. Shop wanted to do a rebuild or put in a new engine.
I decided to fix it myself. I Fixed it in one day for $80.00
When taking the engine apart, I took the valve cover off. Found a broken valve spring.
Broken valve spring.
Check the valve spring.
It saved me $6,000.00
 
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Crosby231

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I was in a very similar situation. Sudden rough running engine. Repair shop spent a week diagnosing. Decided it was a bad lifter that ruined the cam. Shop wanted to do a rebuild or put in a new engine.
I decided to fix it myself. I Fixed it in one day for $80.00
When taking the engine apart, I took the valve cover off. Found a broken valve spring.
Broken valve spring.
Check the valve spring.
It saved me $6,000.00
They all seem to be fine. I can’t find any play at all in them.
 

Black1500Ram

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IMG_0060.jpeg
Any of your lifters look like the one on the left (tip of roller worn down level to the height of the sides)?

actually since you said loud knocking, check thecenter pin that the roller spins on to see if any are starting to walk out?

That’s what happened to me and my lifter tick was more like a loud metallic tapping.. think 3/8” extension tapping a chrome socket. But then again I wasn’t able to pull that lifter… didn’t have performance loss or misfire though :hmm:

Lastly, a telescoping light can go down the lifter bore and you can see the cam lobes to verify if there’s any damage.

IMG_0062.jpeg
 
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Dusty

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They all seem to be fine. I can’t find any play at all in them.
I was in a very similar situation. Sudden rough running engine. Repair shop spent a week diagnosing. Decided it was a bad lifter that ruined the cam. Shop wanted to do a rebuild or put in a new engine.
I decided to fix it myself. I Fixed it in one day for $80.00
When taking the engine apart, I took the valve cover off. Found a broken valve spring.
Broken valve spring.
Check the valve spring.
It saved me $6,000.00
Was it an inner?

Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 104623 miles.
 

Dustyroadz

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My 2018 6.4 cam&lifters were as Black1500Ram pictured&said.....bought mine with 28K and at 42 it totally died....Ram(after 6 months 15+ dealer shop visits and 1 Lemon law mention from me) dealer bought it back for slightly more than my original cost.
It developed the "TICK" after the first oil change( I suspect dealer put something in the oil to quiet it to make a sell-STP perhaps or the like).
-Soon after Crankshaft POSITION SENSOR replaced is when it totally shutdown in the middle of a highway,"Engine Failure".
**I suspect original owner contributed to it's demize from LONG idle periods...my research pointed to a drill team operating in Canada where they leave the trucks idling for days without turning off due to super cold conditions...***folks...NEVER buy a vehicle with unusual high idle hrs...Thank god it was still under factory warranty.
Bought a new 22 2500 Ram with 6.4 it was during Covid when their was FEW if any 2500's to be had from any dealer available.At 8K it doesn't tick so far......It had the famous"lack of available stock" surcharge....aaaRRRGGGGHHHHHH!
 

Black1500Ram

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Hi
My 2018 6.4 cam&lifters were as Black1500Ram pictured&said.....bought mine with 28K and at 42 it totally died....Ram(after 6 months 15+ dealer shop visits and 1 Lemon law mention from me) dealer bought it back for slightly more than my original cost.
It developed the "TICK" after the first oil change( I suspect dealer put something in the oil to quiet it to make a sell-STP perhaps or the like).
-Soon after Crankshaft POSITION SENSOR replaced is when it totally shutdown in the middle of a highway,"Engine Failure".
**I suspect original owner contributed to it's demize from LONG idle periods...my research pointed to a drill team operating in Canada where they leave the trucks idling for days without turning off due to super cold conditions...***folks...NEVER buy a vehicle with unusual high idle hrs...Thank god it was still under factory warranty.
Bought a new 22 2500 Ram with 6.4 it was during Covid when their was FEW if any 2500's to be had from any dealer available.At 8K it doesn't tick so far......It had the famous"lack of available stock" surcharge....aaaRRRGGGGHHHHHH!
if you’re still under warranty the consensus is Hemi Honey (redline) - *edit* in the weight on the cap if you plan on keeping the truck long term. Or at the very least add lubeguard to Mobil 1 or PUP etc. (from the 46586 page long oil thread)
 
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