Any and all advice welcomed …

[Burla]

Sea Foam through vac lines, that product doesnt do much in a gas tank but wonder through combustion chamber. It is a very weak solvent, I believe just alcohol, no reason to add that to gas tank. You can do the red tube or just spray it into throttle body.

Does Seafoam Actually Work in a Car? (with Proof)

In this video I test Seafoam in a Honda Civic Si. I use a mini borescope camera to look into the engine and see how dirty the engine is before the fuel treat...

youtu.be

Seafoam - Engine Treatment | How-to and is it safe inside your motor?

Does seafoam actually work? Is it safe inside your engine? Should you do the full seafoam treatment and how do you do it? My 1994 Bronco 5.8l has 150,000 mil...

youtu.be

 

[logboom]

Start simple work up. Exactly what codes is it throwing, track those down first of all. Replace plugs, throw in two cans of seafoam as many misfires are cuased by gunked up injectors, get a can of throttle body cleaner and clean that and the map sensor.

If that doesnt fix it then time to maybe pull valve covers and look for problems in there.

Assuming that will work on a 5.3 Vortex??

 

[Dean2]

Assuming that will work on a 5.3 Vortex??

Works on every vehicle. Been fixing them for 55 years and have never varied from the start simple and work to complex. Have learned a sh#t ton over the years about how to simplify and refine the process but I can honestly say more than 80% of issues were far less expensive and simpler to fix than most would have ever expected. They were also often NOT what another shop had said the problem was.

 

[62Blazer]

In regards to replacing the coil. If you suspect one of the ignition coils has an issue the best thing to do is to swap it with another cylinder. For example if you have a #5 cylinder misfire simply swap the #3 and #5 coil. If the coil is the problem then the misfire will move to cylinder #3 and #5 will run fine. One thing I will say is you need to know if the problem is consistent or sporadic....if it's sporadic you may not notice it right away. Same thing for plugs or injectors. It's always nice to verify a part is the actual problem before just replacing it....and just because it's "new" doesn't guarantee it's "good". Especially if you start using generic parts.

 

[Treburkulosis]

I second Redline Si-1. Its what I run in our cars. I am do for a bottle this fill up.

 

[Jeepwalker]

OP. Seriously, for now, forget about the Seafoam. Grab your meter, run your engine for 30 seconds, then pull your coil and plugs out of #5 and ohm them out. That's real simple to do, and quick. More likely an issue. I mean like less than 30 mintues. Look at the plug ends carefully and note their color. Then do a compression test. Obviously you can only remove one spark plug per cylinder to do it (plan ahead). If you find something there, then you know what your path of resolution is. If not, perhaps take off the valve cover and look at the rocker arm*. Or just put a dial indicator on #5 rocker and have someone roll the engine over. Maybe do same thing with #1 if you think you need to. Yer talking 30 min of work there to check the coil & plugs. ...twice the time it took you to goof around with all these seafoam questions. I'd check for dead components first, worry about seafoam later. lol

If the rocker arm is moving as much as it should then you know it isn't the cam. Then give the seafoam trick a try. I wouldn't drive it around a whole lot if I knew there was a chance the cam was carved up and the pan could have a bunch of shavings in it. And plus, you want to see what the plugs look like when you remove them. They'll be clean after the seafoam and won't tell you what's been going on in each cylinder.

Ignition coil – checking, measuring, faults | HELLA

Ignition coil | Testing ignition coils ✓ Ignition coil failure: symptoms & troubleshooting ✓ Basic principles & ignition coil types ✓Tips for the workshop ✓

www.hella.com

(*= additional time to remove the valve cover & inspect the rockers)

 

[PowersOf12]

If it ends up being CAM/Lifter, I just had this done at the dealership under lifetime warranty, and this is exactly what they replaced. Tech said on a 2WD, this is a relatively easy job. My truck now runs like brand new.

 

[Andrei20]

First thing first. Cut the oil filter (with a special filter cutting wrench, not a hacksaw), and see if there's any metal in it. If yes, then there's something wearing fast in the engine, possibly the cams and/or lifters. If the oil filter doesn't have metal glitter, look for other issues, electrical, plugged injectors, spark plugs with gaps out of specs, etc..

 

[Sherman Bird]

Greeting fellas

Ran across this forum multiple times (unfortunately and thankfully) here recently. Just looking for tips and advice, it will be greatly appreciated. I have searched multiple threads on here and gathered great information on how to move forward so TIA for that.

Here’s the back story:

I have a 2015 ram 1500. Just a good ol SLT base model. I bought it about four years ago from an H&E equipment company. Purchased with a little over 100,000 miles on it, had great maintenance records. It was mostly used to travel in between site locations.

I’m approaching 200,000 miles, and recently got a misfire code. Specifically on cylinder five. Naturally, I replaced the coil first still to have the code show up. And no, I have not replaced the Plug’s yet. I have purchased them just not have had the time.

However, today, I’m now throwing a cylinder one misfire. Never had any issues with the truck and now all the sudden I have a cylinder five misfire, and two days later a cylinder one misfire.

It did start the notorious Hemi tick at approximately 150k miles, which is when I first discovered the whole issue these trucks have with the cams and lifters.

Overall, the truck really has been great, I really do not want to get rid of it for financial reasons, and somewhat of an attachment to the ol truck. I’m beginning to think however I will soon be replacing a cam and lifters. Even at this point for preventive reasons (even though I’m 99% sure that’s why I’m misfiring on 5&1). I’ve seen multiple videos and read multiple threads on here about people who decided to tackle it on their own. I am a machinist by trade, so I do feel comfortable (somewhat) Tearing into it. But I have a few questions it if y’all would be so thankful to help me out.

Generally speaking, how hard is the repair?
What is the best parts, gaskets etc. to go with?
Should I replace anything else while I’m in there?
What’s the off chance is it’s just the spark plugs or the injectors? I do plan on changing those tomorrow (the plugs).

Any and all advice, experiences, do’s and don’ts welcomed. Hopefully me and my 7 year old son can tear into it.

Look forward to the replies fellas, God bless and cheers.

As a professional for 48 years.... replace the entire engine, or rebuild the original. DO NOT throw good money after bad by attempting a partial major internal repair.

 

[Dodge 1500 4X4]

As a professional for 48 years.... replace the entire engine, or rebuild the original. DO NOT throw good money after bad by attempting a partial major internal repair.

I'm in the same trade, seeing you had valve ticking at 150,000 sometimes you don't get misfires right away, with 2 misfires with #1,#5 you have some serious metal fragments in your lubrication system, Seafoam to me is only good for the fuel system only, to start i would pull the intake plenum and check the VVT oil control solenoid for metal fragments in the screen element.

 

[Gary Fields]

Unless you have changed the plugs recently I'd replace them. Drop a few cans of fuel injector in the tank. Check fuel pressure to make sure fuel pump is OK. For the lifter tick I've had 2 friends fix their problems by using 10W-30 oil instead of 5W-20. If it's too cold for 10 weight oil I recommend staying home. It's worth a try at your next oil change.