New speakers '15 1500

[BIGE1123]

Alright guys and gals,
I'm no stranger to car audio but admittedly haven't been into it as much as I used to so I have just a couple quick questions.

Question the first...
Grabbed 2 sets of 6x9s for my doors (Pioneer TS-A692F) and a set of 3.5s for my corners (Pioneer TS-A879). From what I am seeing it should be a straight forward install, nothing out of the ordinary, correct?

Second question...
When I go to buy my amp (yes I know I need a line out converter or an amp with low level inputs) 6 speakers = a 6 channel amp..... or are people wiring the doors/dash corners as components and using a 4channel?

2015 1500 w/ stock 5" uconnect

 

[UnkoBro]

The 6-speaker system in the 1500 is a lil bit trickier than expected; the 3½ dash speakers run off the front door speakers (thru the head unit) and those 3½'s receive a 6-ohm load. They'll be crazy loud to a point where it overpowers the door speakers. You'll need a 4-ohm resistor mounted inline on the + wire to bring the load down (so it doesn't draw too much wattage from the unit). There are some YouTube vids out there to help with this. Hope this helps!

 

[UnkoBro]

Also, what some Ram owners have done (when upgrading to an 8.4 from 5.0) was to run a 4ch amp to the 4 doors, and remove the resistor from the 3½ dash speakers, and allow them to be powered by the head unit...and use those as additional "fill" reflecting off the windshield. The door speakers will have enough power to blend and tweek to match the output of the dash speakers...

 

[BIGE1123]

Also, what some Ram owners have done (when upgrading to an 8.4 from 5.0) was to run a 4ch amp to the 4 doors, and remove the resistor from the 3½ dash speakers, and allow them to be powered by the head unit...and use those as additional "fill" reflecting off the windshield. The door speakers will have enough power to blend and tweek to match the output of the dash speakers...

If I follow you correctly... Run a 4ch for my front/back doors (6x9s) and run the 3.5s in the dash off the headunit (without resistors so they are "louder")
What are my options if I want to have an amp on the 3.5's as well?

 

[UnkoBro]

Yes, that would be an option. We dialed-in my buddy's amp to match the output of the dash speakers so they wouldn't be too "bright", while running full-range to the 4 door speakers. He then went directly to the door speakers himself, through the doors hinge boots, with his DS18 amp mounted under the driver's seat. He did that by watching YouTube vids, which there plenty of for us Ram owners

 

[BIGE1123]

Yes, that would be an option. We dialed-in my buddy's amp to match the output of the dash speakers so they wouldn't be too "bright", while running full-range to the 4 door speakers. He then went directly to the door speakers himself, through the doors hinge boots, with his DS18 amp mounted under the driver's seat. He did that by watching YouTube vids, which there plenty of for us Ram owners

I was REALLY hoping to avoid having to run wires through the door boot..... Too many nightmares from doing it back in the day LOL

 

[UnkoBro]

I know what you mean...there should be some invented way to run it through the speaker wires of the harness, but you'd still want to have a thicker gauge speaker wire if you're running any real wattage for sure

 

[BIGE1123]

I know what you mean...there should be some invented way to run it through the speaker wires of the harness, but you'd still want to have a thicker gauge speaker wire if you're running any real wattage for sure

If I am not mistaken doesn't NetAudio have a harness that would work for NOT running wire back through the boot? I thought I remember seeing something about run their harness and wire back to your amps. Then amps back to your factory wiring behind the dash. (assumed as you said you are not running huge wattage)

 

[UnkoBro]

I believe I saw something like that on The NetAudio site; the way it read, it seemed a bit tedious (but effective) and it still seemed to me that without going directly to the speaker itself, I'd still be at the mercy of the thin OE wire for as many feet that it runs from the dash to the doors...and that only matters if your planning on running alot of power, really. NetAudio is awesome...I like that they have a pre-cast mold of the rear underseat compartment for making their sub boxes almost entirely out of fiberglass (to get the max air volume possible)...especially important as they are amongst the very few who can offer a ported/tuned box for high rms subs!

 

[IDSandman]

Get the Netaudio harness with resistors. Run new wire to dash speakers to tie into head unit with the harness. No reason to run new wires to the doors, the stock wiring will handle plenty of power for 80% of builds. Now unless you’re going super high end components with built enclosures in the doors with high wattage speakers then it makes sense to run bigger gauge wire. But we’re talking 200wrms per here.

 

[UnkoBro]

So regarding your inquiry, I did more research (because now I'm motivated to add a 4-CH amp to MY system )
YES, there are TWO options I have found that would work for what you're trying to achieve:
NetAudio T-Harness Loop-Back Kit (which actually isn't as tedious to run as I thought )
LLJ Customs T-Harness Elite Loop-Back Kit (I like this one, and the YouTube vid they've posted really explains the ease-of-use)
You'd have just ONE (kinda large loomed cable containing all the wires you need) to run back to your amp...and avoid running any wires into your doors! These "Loop-Back" kits are a Godsend...this may be exactly what you're looking for! Check LLJCustoms.com and you can customize the loop-back kit to fit your needs 100%

The Elite Loopback Harness adding an amplifier in minutes!

In this video we will go over the layout and function of our Elite Harness System. Specifically the Elite Loopback harness system and how it can be used to i...

youtu.be

 

[BIGE1123]

So regarding your inquiry, I did more research (because now I'm motivated to add a 4-CH amp to MY system )
YES, there are TWO options I have found that would work for what you're trying to achieve:
NetAudio T-Harness Loop-Back Kit (which actually isn't as tedious to run as I thought )
LLJ Customs T-Harness Elite Loop-Back Kit (I like this one, and the YouTube vid they've posted really explains the ease-of-use)
You'd have just ONE (kinda large loomed cable containing all the wires you need) to run back to your amp...and avoid running any wires into your doors! These "Loop-Back" kits are a Godsend...this may be exactly what you're looking for! Check LLJCustoms.com and you can customize the loop-back kit to fit your needs 100%

The Elite Loopback Harness adding an amplifier in minutes!

In this video we will go over the layout and function of our Elite Harness System. Specifically the Elite Loopback harness system and how it can be used to i...

youtu.be

That LLJ one looks to be "cleaner" for installation. I am curious if you would still need resistors so the factory radio "sees" a load and doesn't stop output to that channel.

 

[UnkoBro]

That LLJ one looks to be "cleaner" for installation. I am curious if you would still need resistors so the factory radio "sees" a load and doesn't stop output to that channel.

I watched a couple of the LLJ Customs vids and they do mention that they have the resistors in their harnesses and I like their available options of using High Level input signal (tighter, cleaner install with the Audio Control plugs) vs Low Level RCA...and I plan on using Audio Control