Parts failed all at once.

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clhudnall

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Anyone ever have to replace the lower front ball joints, front end tie rods, sway bar and shocks/struts on the front. Never had to replace so many things before on a vehicle. Mileage is at 117,890. No I don't do any off roading. Strictly streets and highways.
 
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TotallyHucked

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^what he said. Though I typically replace it all at once on older vehicles. If one thing is going bad, they're all likely to go bad soon enough, might as well buy once cry once
 

Jeepwalker

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2012 isn't new by any means. It's a good idea to do all that at once anyway, if the vehicle has high enough miles and it needs it. I mean yer in there anyway touching those parts. How many miles??

You didn't mention upper ball joints?? Hard to imagine the lowers going bad and the uppers still good. Might as well change those too. ...or buy new Upper Control Arms, UCA's. While yer at it, probably should install new anti-sway bar end link bushings (and maybe center bushings too). *Check* or inspect yer truck's hub/bearing assemblies and inner CV up/down freeplay at the diff (if 4x4). It would be a good idea to check the trans/xfer case output shaft bushing for 'free play', and remove the rear driveshaft and pop off the U-joint caps and inspect the trunions for grooving, etc (change that if it needs it). And insert some new grease (like grease) before you put the U-joint caps back on.

Use good quality parts or you might be doing it again in a couple yrs.

And because you live in MO, I'd squirt some oil above the rear box wheel arches (better yet, First clean all the crud out that gets above there, and wash/dry)...and some oil in the: door bottoms, tailgate bottom, rocker/cab corners, etc so those areas don't rust out on you. Because they will. Probably not too far from now.

Oh, have your mechanic (or you can do), flush out the old steering fluid that probably looks like crap, with new Mopar fluid, and exchange the brake fluid with new. A little preventive work there can make a big difference and save you headaches down the road.

She'll drive like a dream when you get all those things fixed and be ready for another 10yrs!! :waytogo:


Note: **Don't** oil the door hinge bushings. Chrysler uses a crushed graphite bushing...lubricating just wears them out quickly (ask how I know!...).
 
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62Blazer

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What do you mean by "fail"? Did you just recently check and all of those parts are showing some wear and play, and thus need replaced? Or do you mean that all of those parts suddenly just broke and you can't drive the vehicle because of them?
I would tend to agree with some of the above comments that all of them have been wearing out over time and you just now noticed it......not that it just suddenly happened.
 

bcbouy

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my previous 2012 hd had to have the whole front end replaced like yours.i got it as a a lease return.extended warranty covered the whole thing.i couldn't tell it was as bad as it was,it was steering a little wonky and binding at full lock when i brought it in and everything was seized or completely worn.i think it had around 30 k kilometers on it at the time.after they replaced everything it was a solid truck and served me well for years with no more drama,other than the manifold bolts..
 
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Jeepwalker

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Are the roads you're driving on particularly rough by chance?

The main road out of our town to the main city nearby had buckled and potholed something fierce over one particularly rough winter. This was like 6-7 yrs ago. It was really terrible. I avoided it as much as I could. I knew two different parents who commuted back and fourth to work who told me it knocked their ball joints and front suspension out (Suburban & Tahoe). The local mechanic told me they were busy with front end repairs. Fortunately the state was quick to re-pave it that summer.
 

Dusty

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Anyone ever have to replace the lower front ball joints, front end tie rods, sway bar and shocks/struts on the front. Never had to replace so many things before on a vehicle.
Who diagnosed all these issues?
Regards,
Dusty
2019 Ram 1500 Billet Silver Laramie Quad Cab 2WD, 5.7 Hemi, 8HP75, 3.21 axle, 33-gallon fuel tank, 18” wheels. Build Date: 3 June 2018. Now at 100154 miles.
 
OP
OP
C

clhudnall

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2012 isn't new by any means. It's a good idea to do all that at once anyway, if the vehicle has high enough miles and it needs it. I mean yer in there anyway touching those parts. How many miles??

You didn't mention upper ball joints?? Hard to imagine the lowers going bad and the uppers still good. Might as well change those too. ...or buy new Upper Control Arms, UCA's. While yer at it, probably should install new anti-sway bar end link bushings (and maybe center bushings too). *Check* or inspect yer truck's hub/bearing assemblies and inner CV up/down freeplay at the diff (if 4x4). It would be a good idea to check the trans/xfer case output shaft bushing for 'free play', and remove the rear driveshaft and pop off the U-joint caps and inspect the trunions for grooving, etc (change that if it needs it). And insert some new grease (like grease) before you put the U-joint caps back on.

Use good quality parts or you might be doing it again in a couple yrs.

And because you live in MO, I'd squirt some oil above the rear box wheel arches (better yet, First clean all the crud out that gets above there, and wash/dry)...and some oil in the: door bottoms, tailgate bottom, rocker/cab corners, etc so those areas don't rust out on you. Because they will. Probably not too far from now.

Oh, have your mechanic (or you can do), flush out the old steering fluid that probably looks like crap, with new Mopar fluid, and exchange the brake fluid with new. A little preventive work there can make a big difference and save you headaches down the road.

She'll drive like a dream when you get all those things fixed and be ready for another 10yrs!! :waytogo:


Note: **Don't** oil the door hinge bushings. Chrysler uses a crushed graphite bushing...lubricating just wears them out quickly (ask how I know!...).
Already did the fluid exchange at 100, 000 miles in 2021. Had my mechanic do some preventative checking on the suspension after I did the front brakes and he said these were some of the things that were going bad or broken. I still need to do the spark plugs. Love this truck but I'm going broke trying to keep up with repairs.
 

Jeepwalker

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Those items seem premature wear for 'normal' driving. But was the vehicle driven through water? Rough conditions? Or just bad luck? Wait'll the cam goes. As with anything, always try to keep enough in reserve (or good insurance) to protect yourself against 'worst case' failures...house/car/etc. You might be a better candidate for owning a new truck with a warranty. From this point on, you know, more items will fail (eventually).

.
 
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62Blazer

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Already did the fluid exchange at 100, 000 miles in 2021. Had my mechanic do some preventative checking on the suspension after I did the front brakes and he said these were some of the things that were going bad or broken. I still need to do the spark plugs. Love this truck but I'm going broke trying to keep up with repairs.
I'm sure at over 100k miles the parts are showing some level of wear and looseness as compared to brand new parts. The question comes about whether they actually "failed" or are just starting to wear and the mechanic is suggesting some preventative maintenance.....big difference in saying "they all failed at the same time" versus "they all show typical 100k+ wear". Keep in mind "preventative" means replacing the parts BEFORE they are completely worn out or fail. I don't want to talk bad about the mechanic, and not saying it may not be a bad idea to put fresh parts in, but the mechanic is basically trying to sell you something. Have you ever gone to a car dealership and the sale's guy tries to tell you don't need a new car?
 

Jeepwalker

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Good point!

Suspension is one of those things where if ya take it apart, it makes sense, if you can afford to, the ideal is to replace any suspiscious or common-parts at the same time. But not if you're replacing a 'good' OEM part with an inferior aftermarket part (which a lot (if not most) aftermarket parts are inferior to OEM). A second opinion, say, a free suspension inspection or even the dealer might not hurt. Don't be afraid if any shop tells ya "You need to replace everything". Make them show you...with your own eyes.

Ball joint excessive wear per the Ram factory manual, where they need to be replaced, is if they show free-play more than .5mm (.020"). If the truck generally drives ok now, have them put a dial indicator on the lower knuckle and *show* you there's more than that. If they won't then there probably isn't or they don't know how to check. You don't want to be a jerk, but kindly ask them to let you *feel* the tie rod ends. I would. If the studs feel somewhat snug they are fine at 100k.
 
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seanclark1503

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I do go off road now and then but I’m sure at least 80% of the wear I get is from the pavement in town /highway roads that are THRASHED. Lots of massive gaps in the expansion joints on the bridges that I drive over too. Not sure where the road tax $ goes , but it doesn’t seem to go for repairs/maintenance of any around here.
 

DaBurner87

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Mechanics need work, and you sound like you gave them the go ahead to do some. I have a Ford Edge with a 170,000 miles, and my mechanic looked it over good, even lets me look under it when on the lift and he said not to fix any suspension components. All of it is original, and nothing has been fixed since new. The tire shop on the other hand recommended all shocks/struts/etc... to be done. It too is a 2012, and driven in NY where roads are filled with pot holes. Not knocking your mechanic, but without more info or before/after pics this is kinda useless. Perhaps one component went bad early on or failed prematurely and caused all the others to work harder, or maybe this mechanic just told you to fix things and you ate it like most people do.
 
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