My baby is going in for elective surgery

[duckman631]

2016 5.7 4x4. 110,000 mi.
So it’s that time where she needs an overhaul. Im nervous. Trying a mechanic I have never used but was recommended. This is the first major work since I bought it so never had a need to have a steady mechanic.

I’ve already purchased all of the below and just paying them labor to do the work. I went with a balance of price and quality.

New plugs and pcv valve
New rotors and pads
New wheel hub assembly’s
New upper and lower control arms front
New tie rods inner and outer
New sway bar links
New sway bar frame mount bushings front
New struts spring units
New upper and lower rear control arms
New track bar
New sway bar links
New sway bar bushings frame mount rear
New shocks
Wheel alignment

I figured easier and cheaper to just do all at once even if a part or two still has some life left.

Even though it’s pretty straightforward work, nowadays you still never know. Are they going to really check the plugs and ensure proper gap? Are they going to properly torque all bolts to spec? Etc.

I’m scared.

 

[EdGs]

The NGK 92145 plugs I got for my '15 SLT 5.7L were pregapped. I did check a few of them and they were good. These laser iridium plugs have a teeny-tiny electrode, so once I checked a couple, I went ahead and installed the rest (after visually looking them over, of course).

I feel you on your concerns, if the shop had good recommendations, and they've been in business awhile, all should be good.

That is a bunch of stuff to have done at once, but understood per conditions up north. Glad I live in FL where there is no road salt and the roads are pretty decent (for the most part).

May your repairs go smoothly.

 

[CanuckRam1313]

2016 5.7 4x4. 110,000 mi.
So it’s that time where she needs an overhaul. Im nervous. Trying a mechanic I have never used but was recommended. This is the first major work since I bought it so never had a need to have a steady mechanic.

New plugs and pcv valve
New rotors and pads
New wheel hub assembly’s
New upper and lower control arms front
New tie rods inner and outer
New sway bar links
New sway bar frame mount bushings front
New struts spring units
New upper and lower rear control arms
New track bar
New sway bar links
New sway bar bushings frame mount rear
New shocks
Wheel alignment

I figured easier and cheaper to just do all at once even if a part or two still has some life left.

Even though it’s pretty straightforward work, nowadays you still never know. Are they going to really check the plugs and ensure proper gap? Are they going to properly torque all bolts to spec? Etc.

I’m scared.

My $0.02...

For brakes - look at purchasing the PowerStop Z36 package.
They also come with new slider pin boots and caliper clips.
I would also get your brake fluid flushed and filled with a top quality brake fluid (DOT4 or DOT5.1)

For suspension - look at a set of 5100's for the rears and 6112's for the fronts and set the fronts at 2.1" raised.
You need suspension and an alignment anyways, why not get better than OEM!

For spark plugs - NGK Ruthenium HX plugs from Rock Auto.
You'll pay less and get a better spark plug.
- caveat: throttle body service

As for sway bar bushings and end links - look to a premium brand with urethane bushings.

For the upper and lower control arms and track bars - look too a premium brand that has a high name in quality and longevity.

Again, if you're doing all this work, you might as well have more control of what replacement parts you put on your truck, and their associated costs.

You're paying them labour, and they will work with you, no doubt!

As for them supplying the front hub assemblies - ensure you are getting top quality parts like SKS, MEVOTECH, etc. You don't want them putting on cheap garbage.

When is that last time you have the diff and transfer case fluids changed?
When is the last time you had a transmission service with new filter & fluid

 

[Jeepwalker]

Good to be pro-active. Some of that OEM stuff if still good, will outlast aftermarket parts by...a lot! But, I see your point on having as much done at one time. If your bushings and tie rod eds are worn, it should handle and drive a lot tighter when you get it back. He'll probably use NAPA parts which are generally pretty good.

Shocks, IDK. Are they bad? My truck has 175k and the shocks are still good. My experience with Monroe/Gabriel shocks is they have about a 25% failure rate. Meaning...in a couple years one of them is bound to leak. But maybe they've gotten better in the last 10 yrs.

Happy motoring.

 

[duckman631]

My $0.02...

For brakes - look at purchasing the PowerStop Z36 package.
They also come with new slider pin boots and caliper clips.
I would also get your brake fluid flushed and filled with a top quality brake fluid (DOT4 or DOT5.1)

For suspension - look at a set of 5100's for the rears and 6112's for the fronts and set the fronts at 2.1" raised.
You need suspension and an alignment anyways, why not get better than OEM!

For spark plugs - NGK Ruthenium HX plugs from Rock Auto.
You'll pay less and get a better spark plug.
- caveat: throttle body service

As for sway bar bushings and end links - look to a premium brand with urethane bushings.

For the upper and lower control arms and track bars - look too a premium brand that has a high name in quality and longevity.

Again, if you're doing all this work, you might as well have more control of what replacement parts you put on your truck, and their associated costs.

You're paying them labour, and they will work with you, no doubt!

As for them supplying the front hub assemblies - ensure you are getting top quality parts like SKS, MEVOTECH, etc. You don't want them putting on cheap garbage.

When is that last time you have the diff and transfer case fluids changed?
When is the last time you had a transmission service with new filter & fluid

I should have been a bit more clearer in my original post. I personally sourced all the items and just having them do the uninstall/install work. I did not want crappy parts off the local parts shops shelf. I was keeping cost in my mind as a factor so as much as I love a lot of the recommendations, I didn’t want to spend several thousand on parts and then another $1300-$1500 on the work ($135/hr) and figure 8-10 hours they will probably hit me for although they should be able to all under 8. For some of the parts I went with the recommended consensus in the forums here.

 

[Scottly]

Might as well install a new cam and lifters while you're in there...New exhaust manifold bolts, too...For that matter, trade it in and get a new one. But, that's just me. I'm sure Banks has a solution in a bottle to repair everything by just adding a few ounces to the tank.

 

[duckman631]

Good to be pro-active. Some of that OEM stuff if still good, will outlast aftermarket parts by...a lot! But, I see your point on having as much done at one time. If your bushings and tie rod eds are worn, it should handle and drive a lot tighter when you get it back. He'll probably use NAPA parts which are generally pretty good.

Shocks, IDK. Are they bad? My truck has 175k and the shocks are still good. My experience with Monroe/Gabriel shocks is they have about a 25% failure rate. Meaning...in a couple years one of them is bound to leak. But maybe they've gotten better in the last 10 yrs.

Happy motoring.

I think my shocks are getting pretty bad and other work needed to be done so cheaper to replace now while all apart rather than go back in a few months and have them get under it again and since they are replacing the control arms, the struts had to come off there anyway. I didn’t want off the shelf parts like Napa so I went with better quality which I can control what I get and for a lot less $ than they would charge for a Napa type part.

 

[duckman631]

Might as well install a new cam and lifters while you're in there...New exhaust manifold bolts, too...For that matter, trade it in and get a new one. But, that's just me. I'm sure Banks has a solution in a bottle to repair everything by just adding a few ounces to the tank.

What are you even talking about?

 

[diymirage]

Sounds like routine maintenance to me

 

[Marshall]

I think you 8 hrs is a bit off, but then I don't know what the book says, and I work damn slow.
No time clock.

 

[Duskybay]

Congrats on even finding a shop that will install your supplied parts. I’ve had NO luck finding anyplace that will install even my recommended replacement parts. Hope all this work goes well, and it rides like new.

 

[Jeepwalker]

...
I think you 8 hrs is a bit off, but then I don't know what the book says, and I work damn slow.

I think you mean, You're THOROUGH! You make sure all the bolts are fastened tight and didn't break other parts, or leave vacuum hoses or wires unhooked, in the process of trying to rush a job

 

[Hardracer]

I dont think Scotty likes Banks all that much

 

[RJL1]

Not sure where in NJ you are or what shop you're using but I Highly recommend contacting @Quick_Shifter to be your parts installer.

Nice clean shop, good honest mechanic(s) too.

Just over the Ben Franklin bridge and a bit south of Philly.

 

[Quick_Shifter]

Not sure where in NJ you are or what shop you're using but I Highly recommend contacting @Quick_Shifter to be your parts installer.

Nice clean shop, good honest mechanic(s) too.

Just over the Ben Franklin bridge and a bit south of Philly.

To clarify we only install parts that were supplied from @Nick@GotExhaust because we know they are right and we stay in direct contact. We do not install parts supplied by the customer because no one wants to pay to have them removed when it’s bad out of the box or fails prematurely

 

[huntergreen]

To clarify we only install parts that were supplied from @Nick@GotExhaust because we know they are right and we stay in direct contact. We do not install parts supplied by the customer because no one wants to pay to have them removed when it’s bad out of the box or fails prematurely

When you open a shop in north jersey, let me know. Lol

 

[Quick_Shifter]

When you open a shop in north jersey, let me know. Lol

Tank of fuel is cheaper than moving a shop. Instead of buying a Vette and a TRX I decided to get an alignment rack, road force balancer and no touch tire machine. My sacrifices are for your gains

 

[duckman631]

Update: All work has been completed. Truck running great. For 111,000 mi, mechanic was surprised how good everything he replaced looked. Plugs had average wear and looked pretty good. Most of the suspension parts had normal wear but nothing concerning. Only part to fail was one of the tie rod boots had eroded from oil dripping on it. Need to go back in a few hundred miles to get retorqued and then another alignment in 3000 mi after all the new parts settle.