Passenger vents blow hot, driver's not as cold, no zone control...

[Drunken Hamster]

Yeah, for the price, I wasn't impressed with the packaging. The aluminum doors aren't super thick. The foam they use does take up a fair amount of room.

Dude, shortly after my dad got the truck in '15, there was sticky, nasty foam **** coming through the vents, lol. Guess it was this stuff. When it happens this time, I'll take it all apart again and replace that garbage with some weather stripping.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

Okay, so now there's 0 cold left, what comes through feels hella humid, and there's a smell when it's blowing.

Haven't done any fixes yet, but all the parts are in and I'm recovering from being set back to almost zero guap.

What should my new course of action be?

Sent from my magic 5-inch

 

[Demon-HeMi]

Okay, so now there's 0 cold left, what comes through feels hella humid, and there's a smell when it's blowing.

Haven't done any fixes yet, but all the parts are in and I'm recovering from being set back to almost zero guap.

What should my new course of action be?

Sent from my magic 5-inch

you have the same course of action you had when you started this, you have a Freon leak and broken blend doors, the only difference is now you have no Freon in your truck and if you drive like that for too long your compressor will lose its lubrication and you will burn it up and drive up your repair cost

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

How would I go about checking if my servos are bad or not once it's all out??

Take a small gauge wire, make two equal lengths, use a 9v battery and touch the pins on the servos, if they are good, you will see them moving.

Wish I saw this thread earlier cause I have a complete extra heater treater kit that’s just collecting dust.

I used heater treater because their blend/mode doors and the end piece are a little more stout then blendoorusa. I did it the correct way, not that hack job they say in the instructions, who the f thought of doing it that way? They should be shot. I evacuated the Freon into a rag lol, fixed everything and recharged with advanced auto ac pro, works great, have temps of 45-50 out the vents and no more mildew smell yay...


FWIW, I did take it to an ac guy just to check pressures when I was finished cause you can’t really rely on the parts store gauge.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

drive up your repair cost

You ain’t kiddin, these dam compressors aren’t cheap.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

if you drive like that for too long your compressor will lose its lubrication and you will burn it up and drive up your repair cost

****, how long?

Looks like I AM spending money this week, after all. Should I do my fixes first, then get a leak detection kit and track it down, or should I try to find the leak, then do my fixes? {{Meaning, could it actually be the evap core, or is it likely something else?}}

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

no Freon in your truck and if you drive like that for too long your compressor will lose its lubrication and you will burn it up and drive up your repair cost

When an ac system doesn’t have a charge, the compressor doesn’t kick on. I could be wrong but every car I’ve owned that lost its Freon, the compressors never turned on. Are there some compressors that will still kick on with no charge?

 

[Drunken Hamster]

He made it sound like even if it was just spinning, it'd **** up. That's what I'm assuming anyway, but I've got the A/C button turned off, and don't even run the blower, so idk how it'd burn up if the clutch is just free wheeling and the entire system was off...

When an ac system doesn’t have a charge, the compressor doesn’t kick on. I could be wrong but every car I’ve owned that lost its Freon, the compressors never turned on. Are there some compressors that will still kick on with no charge?

Sent from my magic 5-inch

 

[Demon-HeMi]

When an ac system doesn’t have a charge, the compressor doesn’t kick on. I could be wrong but every car I’ve owned that lost its Freon, the compressors never turned on. Are there some compressors that will still kick on with no charge?

if there is a leak, once it leaks out all Freon and lubricants, then the leak becomes a 2 way door, letting what lubricants are left escape and and moisture and elements creep into the system, which will cause rust and failures of other components, just because something doesn't spin doesn't mean it will not fail, if you take a motor out of a car for storage do you drain the oil out of it and leave the internals open to the elements or do you leave the lubricants in it and keep it sealed?

 

[Demon-HeMi]

He made it sound like even if it was just spinning, it'd **** up. That's what I'm assuming anyway, but I've got the A/C button turned off, and don't even run the blower, so idk how it'd burn up if the clutch is just free wheeling and the entire system was off...

Sent from my magic 5-inch

i made it sound like it will mess up without running it because it will!

read my last post on this, moisture gets in the system and will find all that nice bare metal and screw things up, i see this all the time, and have worked on many of these in my days, also the clutch is irrelevant at the moment, all that does is let the pulley spin when the a/c is not in use, im talking about the $400+ compressor that is sitting with no lubrication with humidity filling up its internals, not getting used, that will fail when you put it back in service if you don't take care of the problem...

the a/c system relies on many pieces working, once you break the system open there is more to it than just changing a compressor, or adding Freon, and its not a cheap system to rebuild.


Edit: one more thing to consider, you have been already running the system low on Freon as it is, what happens to your motor when you run it low on oil, premature wear, so you take an old a/c system, run it low on lubricant and keep it running, now its lost all its Freon and is allowing external contaminants to enter the system through wherever the leak is...

so in a new system you can get buy for a little bit, on a 13 year old a/c system, its tolerance to abuse is not so high

 

[Demon-HeMi]

****, how long?

Looks like I AM spending money this week, after all. Should I do my fixes first, then get a leak detection kit and track it down, or should I try to find the leak, then do my fixes? {{Meaning, could it actually be the evap core, or is it likely something else?}}

do the same thing i told you to do before when your a/c was kinda working, add Freon to it and look for leaks, if it has been run dry now you run the risk of charging the system with water or moisture inside the lines and that will ruin your system...

if your system is truly empty of Freon then the right thing to do is go to a shop and have it properly charged where they pull a vacuum on it and make sure all moisture has been removed

 

[xtremewlr]

No sense in recharging the system before you replace all the doors and the evap and heater cores. The system has to be evacuated again when you do that work so you would be paying for everything twice. Do the door replacement now or as soon as you have the free time. DON'T turn on the a/c, it doesn't work now anyhow. That will prevent the clutch from engaging and the compressor won't spin. Once you have replaced everything and have it all back together, take it to a shop and have them recharge it and look for any leaks at that time.

 

[Demon-HeMi]

No sense in recharging the system before you replace all the doors and the evap and heater cores. The system has to be evacuated again when you do that work so you would be paying for everything twice. Do the door replacement now or as soon as you have the free time. DON'T turn on the a/c, it doesn't work now anyhow. That will prevent the clutch from engaging and the compressor won't spin. Once you have replaced everything and have it all back together, take it to a shop and have them recharge it and look for any leaks at that time.

he is going to have the break the system twice anyways, once for the evap core and blend doors, and then after he recharges and finds the leak the system will be broken open again to fix whatever is leaking, so either way he goes he will have to open the lines twice and have it done twice, thats why i told him to recharge it earlier when it was still working so he could have prevented that extra cost and only be out the cost of a can of freon from the local auto parts...

ultimately he needs to do all these a/c repairs now since in my book its now considered a complete failure, that way he can get it back on the road and not risk anything else getting damaged by putting it off any longer

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

if there is a leak, once it leaks out all Freon and lubricants, then the leak becomes a 2 way door, letting what lubricants are left escape and and moisture and elements creep into the system, which will cause rust and failures of other components, just because something doesn't spin doesn't mean it will not fail, if you take a motor out of a car for storage do you drain the oil out of it and leave the internals open to the elements or do you leave the lubricants in it and keep it sealed?

Ahh, ok gotcya. Didn’t think about it that way.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

@drunkhampster, stupid question but have you checked the shader valves on the high/low side? Sometimes they leak there and that’s a really quick fix.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

No. Where and how do they leak, and how is that fixed? Also, my accumulator (black can thing in the back passenger corner of the engine bay, right?) looked greasy the day after realizing the ac was dead. It could've been condensation, but I've been told anything oily could indicate a leak since the freon has lube in it.

Side note, I'm benching the truck then. Today will be its last run to get some groceries and errands until I've got the doors and cores replaced. I can't afford to charge it, crack it, fix leaks, and charge it again this week, so I might as well not burn gas and fox something in the mean time until I can afford it.

@drunkhampster, stupid question but have you checked the shader valves on the high/low side? Sometimes they leak there and that’s a really quick fix.

Sent from my magic 5-inch

 

[Demon-HeMi]

No. Where and how do they leak, and how is that fixed?
Sent from my magic 5-inch

they are basically metal valve stems, if they fail you replace the insert in them, thats an easy fix

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

^ yup, they look like a bicycle valve. If that accumulator is covered in greasy oily gunk, that may be your leak or something sprayed on it.

Take a pair of small needle nose pliers or if you have the shrader tool (little screwdriver looking with a notch at end) to check if they are loose. But I have had tight ones that leaked, there’s just an itty bitty o ring on them that cause failure.

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

@Demon-HeMi, couldn’t he take it to an ac shop and have them pull a vacuum and cap the compressor so he can at least drive it?

 

[Demon-HeMi]

@Demon-HeMi, couldn’t he take it to an ac shop and have them pull a vacuum and cap the compressor so he can at least drive it?

there really is no way to pull the vacuum and then cap it, you would have to break the seal to put the cap on, they sell a dummy pulley that lets you remove the compressor and store it in a good environment, but thats still more money, i actually have one laying around somewhere, whether driving or not, the problem is that there is a leak, and the elements can still sneak in, and the longer its left unattended the greater the chance is of failure once he gets it back together...

seen it many times in my shop, someone has a compressor go bad and they roll with it because it still spins and just use the old school 4/60 A/C system for a while, then say a few months later get the compressor fixed, then almost always within a few more months something else with the A/C will fail, so its either fix it fast, fix it slow and replace everything serviceable then, or fix it one part at a time and keep paying for the discharge and recharge