Passenger vents blow hot, driver's not as cold, no zone control...

[SYKRAMMAN]

there really is no way to pull the vacuum and then cap it,

How do they do it when their rebuilt then? I did a friends compressor last year and it had red plastic plugs in the ports, when I pulled them out, it made a loud suction sound.

 

[Demon-HeMi]

How do they do it when their rebuilt then? I did a friends compressor last year and it had red plastic plugs in the ports, when I pulled them out, it made a loud suction sound.

well they are built in the correct environment to start with, then pre-filled with special lubricants for being in storage and first time use, also the plugs are tight and are pressed in, its the tight fit thats making an air tight seal, which means there will be some suction when they are removed, there are two openings on the compressor, its kind of hard to explain without showing, but you can press one plug in really tight, then push the other one kinda tight and when you release the tighter one it will pull in on the one that wasn't pushed in really tight till they both find their level

 

[SYKRAMMAN]

well they are built in the correct environment to start with, then pre-filled with special lubricants for being in storage and first time use, also the plugs are tight and are pressed in, its the tight fit thats making an air tight seal, which means there will be some suction when they are removed, there are two openings on the compressor, its kind of hard to explain without showing, but you can press one plug in really tight, then push the other one kinda tight and when you release the tighter one it will pull in on the one that wasn't pushed in really tight till they both find their level

Ahh ha, that makes sense. Thnx.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

It's been completely without for 2-3 weeks or so now. The best course of action I can think of is to rebuild what I have then do the charge - check - fix - charge. I'll look at the valves when I get home, I'm on my way now.

Can shops do a proper vac charge and get some uv/leak detection dye on there? Because that doesn't seem like something they can do based on the video I saw. Real refrigerant is an entirely differently day up product than anti leak stuff...

there really is no way to pull the vacuum and then cap it, you would have to break the seal to put the cap on, they sell a dummy pulley that lets you remove the compressor and store it in a good environment, but thats still more money, i actually have one laying around somewhere, whether driving or not, the problem is that there is a leak, and the elements can still sneak in, and the longer its left unattended the greater the chance is of failure once he gets it back together...

seen it many times in my shop, someone has a compressor go bad and they roll with it because it still spins and just use the old school 4/60 A/C system for a while, then say a few months later get the compressor fixed, then almost always within a few more months something else with the A/C will fail, so its either fix it fast, fix it slow and replace everything serviceable then, or fix it one part at a time and keep paying for the discharge and recharge

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[Drunken Hamster]

Just called a shop. $75 and it will include leak detection dye. Gonna get it done Thursday at 4pm.

Cheaper than I thought. I figured it'd be like $125 or so.

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[Drunken Hamster]

I could only check one valve. There's not enough clearance to get to the other one. The one I checked seem fine. No wiggle in the stem thing. A tiny depression causes as hissing sound. Seems like it's sucking in when I do that.

Doesn't look like I can spot an outright leak, either. Here are some pics.

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[xtremewlr]

I'm betting you don't have a leak and the whole issue is because of the recirc door blocking the fan, possibly multiple door failures.

 

[Drunken Hamster]

I'm betting you don't have a leak and the whole issue is because of the recirc door blocking the fan, possibly multiple door failures.

But there's ZERO cold now, and if feels like HUMID air, and it SMELLS. Aren't those like, the number one, two, and three signs of being sans-freon? Especially when it still had SOME cold on one side and NO smell when it first went out???

 

[Demon-HeMi]

the no cold on one side is signature of low freon, your leak could be small enough that you dont see anything, i had a leak on my old 06 that i couldn't find with dye, your leak could even be in the evap core, so thats where hopefully the dye will show you, i wound up using some amazing ass stop leak in mine that made it work perfect until i sold the truck years later

 

[Drunken Hamster]

the no cold on one side is signature of low freon, your leak could be small enough that you dont see anything, i had a leak on my old 06 that i couldn't find with dye, your leak could even be in the evap core, so thats where hopefully the dye will show you, i wound up using some amazing ass stop leak in mine that made it work perfect until i sold the truck years later

I'm hoping it IS in the evap core as I'm replacing that, anyway. Either way, I suppose I'll find out two weeks from Thursday. Or, if they can't actually get a charge in it because it's REALLY bad, I guess I'll find out ON Thursday. Lol.

 

[Demon-HeMi]

I'm hoping it IS in the evap core as I'm replacing that, anyway. Either way, I suppose I'll find out two weeks from Thursday. Or, if they can't actually get a charge in it because it's REALLY bad, I guess I'll find out ON Thursday. Lol.

if it was bad enough that they couldn't make it charge at all then you wouldn't have gotten any sound out of that valve you pushed, the one you pushed is the high pressure side so that means your system isn't fully empty yet

 

[Drunken Hamster]

if it was bad enough that they couldn't make it charge at all then you wouldn't have gotten any sound out of that valve you pushed, the one you pushed is the high-pressure side so that means your system isn't fully empty yet

I see. So I'll know for sure by the time one side stops being cold again? It took about a month-ish for the one side cool to become both sides NOT cool...

But before I did my plugs it was literally all fine aside from reduced zone control that I'd been living with. But after I did them and put those tubes back on the hook they were supposed to be on, I heard a bang/clung under the right side dash after the first startup and it started doing this half-cold crap and no zone control by the next day...

 

[Demon-HeMi]

probably coincidence honestly, something that fails on many rams just happen to fail on yours at that time, they are a ticking time bomb, my show truck i have the zone selector unhooked so that it will only blow out the dash vents and never switch, i had it hang up once and so after that i said if it cant blow out the vents then it doesn't need to blow, but that truck never gets driven and when it does its usually a/c weather which is 90% of texas weather, so i wasnt worried about it

 

[Drunken Hamster]

probably coincidence honestly, something that fails on many rams just happen to fail on yours at that time, they are a ticking time bomb, my show truck i have the zone selector unhooked so that it will only blow out the dash vents and never switch, i had it hang up once and so after that i said if it cant blow out the vents then it doesn't need to blow, but that truck never gets driven and when it does its usually a/c weather which is 90% of texas weather, so i wasnt worried about it

Well, alrighty. I just hope nothing else ******* happens. I want it to be mod time, already! Also, I think I'm just going to keep this fender. If my goal is to repaint it, then the crap I can't buff out won't matter. It currently matches in color and looks miles better than the dented crap, so I'll weather it. Lol.

Might go for that tailgate, however. Keyword being might since I have bigger concerns ATM and it's possibly already taken... I think I'll end up just getting the door bodyworked. Gutting the one at the junkyard and transferring everything from mine over and THEN having to DE-BADGE and DE-SPEAR the junkyard door just seems like a bunch of work I don't wanna do.

 

[Demon-HeMi]

Well, alrighty. I just hope nothing else ******* happens. I want it to be mod time, already! Also, I think I'm just going to keep this fender. If my goal is to repaint it, then the crap I can't buff out won't matter. It currently matches in color and looks miles better than the dented crap, so I'll weather it. Lol.

Might go for that tailgate, however. Keyword being might since I have bigger concerns ATM and it's possibly already taken... I think I'll end up just getting the door bodyworked. Gutting the one at the junkyard and transferring everything from mine over and THEN having to DE-BADGE and DE-SPEAR the junkyard door just seems like a bunch of work I don't wanna do.

just watch craigs-list for doors, eventually one will pop up, i see em all the time in various colors

 

[xtremewlr]

@Drunken Hamster - You get the ac finished and recharged yet? Did they find any leaks in the system?

 

[Drunken Hamster]

@Drunken Hamster - You get the ac finished and recharged yet? Did they find any leaks in the system?

Oh, yeah. Forgot to update you guys. It's all charged and blowing cold again. My mode selector still doesn't seem to be working right, it blows feet and face, but won't change aside from heat blending and recirculation. I can't get the defroster vents to run at all. I think it's dead motors or wiring.

I don't wanna **** with it anymore for now, anyway. If it leaks, I'll order more motors and replace them then, then have it recharged.

Speaking of that, the shop I took it to did pag oil, leak dye, and a full proper charge in about 45 minutes for $80 after tax. When I got there, though, and brought up the o-rings, they wanted $180 or something for the whole job including the o-rings. The way I see it. If it leaks, and it's from there, I'll bite the bullet and replace them, myself before getting it recharged again.

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[xtremewlr]

Sounds like possibly a motor or 2 might not be working. You should be able to get to the motors without having to pull the dash again, might just be a little tight. The defrost one is closest to the driver side.

 

[Demon-HeMi]

Dont rule out the control panel...

 

[Drunken Hamster]

Dont rule out the control panel...

But the control panel can still change it to recirculate or fresh. It also works the temp and blower speed just fine.

Then again, I HAVE noticed that sometimes I'll start it up, turn it to full blast straight away, and it'll run on recirc for a split second before flaking out and going to fresh. I usually have to turn it all the way to foot and face recirc to get it back. So maybe it is the controls.

An anyone confirm if the dial has a separate path in it for the recirculation function? If so that would almost confirm its the dial...

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