Quieting Hemi Tick

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Burla

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So... getting thru all these posts on the 'Hemi tick' here, I'm trying to sort things out to see if the recommendations apply to my issue.

I have a 2016 BH 5.7, that has a 'tick' on startup... which lasts from 30-45 seconds, before going away. Is this how everyone's "tick" starts?!? I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20 (as recommended), change it religiously every 7,500 miles and have never had any issues with that brand of oil. I've used it in 3 Volvos (before I bought this truck) and those went strong to 200K and 225K miles.

At 55K miles on the truck, my factory warranty is obviously expired... but we bought an extended warranty with it for this very reason. So, is this something I should have looked at immediately or safe to run for a while? Will it get worse over time? Will the manifold bolts just all of a sudden 'break' on a trip up to the cabin??? I hope not.

Please advise when time permits. I'm a relatively new owner, and just realizing how widespread this issue is. We live in the Midwest, and winters are cold... so not sure going to a 30x oil is a good idea for those months. Just my .02 there.

Thanks in advance for any/all suggestions.

Gregg

So prior to owning my Ram I used m1 exclusively as well, but my engine ticked on it and PP, and is whisper quiet on redline 5w20 and 5w30. That was my truck, but the forum's experience is that 5w30 redline kills more ticks then 5w20 redline. Redline isn't mineral oil, it is pao and poe base stocks, and the cold properties of pao are second to none. In the mid west you will have zero issues with running redline 5w30. If you start up tick never changes even after an oil change, it might be bolts and not lifters, if that is the case no oil will help and it wont hurt anything. As far as all of your other points, kinda up to you what oil you want to run, we just have figured out some collective info on it and we share it.

The one in the middle is redline 5w30, it pours as good as the 0 winter rated oils, that is simply as good as it gets. But it is even better because as 0 winter rated oils loose vii's they become thicker, but pao is a stable base oil and will remain good low temp properties as long as your oil is good. The second video the redline stays clearer even over other top oils. First sign an oil is failing in the cold, it goes cloudy. Your oil will die from lack of tbn long before pao base stocks break down. You see base oil chart below, pao is the second one, as you can see in it's natural state it has the best cold flow properties, and that is the main base oil of redline, you can't have a high % esters and you don't need a high % os esters to get the benefit. Been using the stuff in the ram since 2011, and I guess I'm stuck with it. Good luck, Burla



7044a_base-oil-types-temperature-range_extra_large.jpg
 

gofishn

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hemi 5.7L, 345 cu in
So... getting thru all these posts on the 'Hemi tick' here, I'm trying to sort things out to see if the recommendations apply to my issue.

I have a 2016 BH 5.7, that has a 'tick' on startup... which lasts from 30-45 seconds, before going away. Is this how everyone's "tick" starts?!? I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20 (as recommended), change it religiously every 7,500 miles and have never had any issues with that brand of oil. I've used it in 3 Volvos (before I bought this truck) and those went strong to 200K and 225K miles.

At 55K miles on the truck, my factory warranty is obviously expired... but we bought an extended warranty with it for this very reason. So, is this something I should have looked at immediately or safe to run for a while? Will it get worse over time? Will the manifold bolts just all of a sudden 'break' on a trip up to the cabin??? I hope not.

Please advise when time permits. I'm a relatively new owner, and just realizing how widespread this issue is. We live in the Midwest, and winters are cold... so not sure going to a 30x oil is a good idea for those months. Just my .02 there.

Thanks in advance for any/all suggestions.

Gregg


I do nto think you are otu of warranty. pretty sure drivetrain warranty was 5yr/60K miles.
If so, then cam and lifters would be covered under drivetrain. so too exhause bolt broken, shoudl your tick be that issue.

first off, find out about warranty coverage and make sur,e do not assume.

45 second soudns like could be either one, exhaust bolt or hemi tick due to roackers.

I wold sugget proper diagnositic first and then go from there.
after determining if anywarranty is left, of course.
 

GSchwizzy

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Good suggestion... I guess I forgot the DT warranty was longer than the standard. I will double-check.

Thank you!!

EDIT:

Doing a quick search, I found this:

The 2016 Ram 1500 is backed with a five-year/100,000-mile Powertrain Limited Warranty on the EcoDiesel and five- year/60,000-mile on gass engines. The powertrain limited warranty covers the cost of all parts and labor needed to repair a covered powertrain component – engine, transmission and drive system.Sep 1, 2015

Guess who's getting a call tomorrow?!? :)

Thank you again. Great catch on your part (gofishin), not a 'good catch' on mine.
 
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Hemi395

Hemi395

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The startup tick is fairly common on these trucks and as mentioned its likely exhaust manifold bolts. Its when you have a hot idle tick that its lifter related.

Good luck at the dealer and let us know what happens!
 

Midnight Storm

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Did anyone make baby steps to convert to redline 5-30?
Example,if you’re on 5-20 now, on your next change do 4 bottles of 5-20 and 3 bottles of 5-30 then the next change maybe 2 of the 20 weight and 5 of the 30 weight then go to straight 5-30 after that.

Am I overthinking it?
 

Burla

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Did anyone make baby steps to convert to redline 5-30?
Example,if you’re on 5-20 now, on your next change do 4 bottles of 5-20 and 3 bottles of 5-30 then the next change maybe 2 of the 20 weight and 5 of the 30 weight then go to straight 5-30 after that.

Am I overthinking it?

I went full 5w20 redline first and it killed my tick. But I like 5w30 much better, it is a very special formula. So many guys are on 5w30 redline I think it is fair to say 100% safe, but if you want to try 5w20 redline go for it.

If you follow viscosity charts the 5w30 stands out against the crowd, the 5w20 doesn't at all. The difference in 20 weight is the additives but the 5w30 hths and noack stand out and scream quality.
 

GSchwizzy

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The startup tick is fairly common on these trucks and as mentioned its likely exhaust manifold bolts. Its when you have a hot idle tick that its lifter related.

Good luck at the dealer and let us know what happens!


Will do for sure, and thank you for the clarification.
 

Mister 4x4

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The startup tick is fairly common on these trucks and as mentioned its likely exhaust manifold bolts. Its when you have a hot idle tick that its lifter related.

I guess I need to check into this a little closer, since mine seems to go quiet with the engine warming up - I haven't really noticed the ticking with the engine hot before. The switch in oil and filter sounds like just a good thing to do, anyway. I've been running Castrol Syntec 5w20 with WIX 58799 filters in my 2012 since I've owned it (Dec 2014), and never noticed the ticking until earlier this year right around the time of the previous 7500 mile oil change (I recently changed it a few months ago).

I'll read up on the exhaust manifold bolts failing, and continue to hope that's not the real issue (I know swapping out the plugs a few weekends ago really sucked, so I would not be looking forward to that, either).

Edit: Unfortunately, I'm now starting to think along the lines of broken manifold bolt(s), since I've had an annoying exhaust manifold heat shield rattle at 1500-ish rpm for a few years now. If it turns out to be the broken bolt(s), then I'm thinking a nice set of JBA shorty headers might be in my future (kill two birds with one stone, as it were - take out the rattle along with the manifold issues). Still gonna change over to the Red Line 5w30 however, since I've been noticing the ECO/MDS changeover ever since I installed the Magnaflow last month (never did before, but I can actually hear it now).
 
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GSchwizzy

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Will do for sure, and thank you for the clarification.

Truck is in at the dealer now... haven't heard anything yet. Also having them investigate why my drivers seat 'shifts/pivots' fwd and bckwrd when I accelerate and brake. Moves (best guess) about 3/4"... easily. I'm told that "these 8-way power seats sometimes have some play in them, as opposed to manual seats". I call BS. In all the vehicles I've owned, not 1 has had any play in the power seat... ever. I hate, hate, hate when dealerships try defending their products to save $$. I told them about this a year and a half ago, when still under the factory warranty. It still moves, and is slightly worse. It better get fixed. I don't care if a brand new seat needs to be ordered... this shouldn't happen. Does anyone else's seat pivot like this??? This is also a safety concern, not just me being picky.

Sorry... had to vent a little. Will update when I know more.
 

GSchwizzy

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The tick... is the exhaust manifold bolts (as expected). They're being replaced along with the gasket (hopefully).

The seat, a whole nother story... I won't get into here, as it's not the appropriate thread for it. Perhaps I'll post somewhere else. Sorry for my rant above. It's just annoying when problems are not addressed and/or corrected.
 
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Hemi395

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The tick... is the exhaust manifold bolts (as expected). They're being replaced along with the gasket (hopefully).

The seat, a whole nother story... I won't get into here, as it's not the appropriate thread for it. Perhaps I'll post somewhere else. Sorry for my rant above. It's just annoying when problems are not addressed and/or corrected.
Well that's good, that's the tick you want to have because it's not internal. Still sucks and it's a huge pain in the nuts to replace the exhaust bolts...
 

chrisbh17

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The tick... is the exhaust manifold bolts (as expected). They're being replaced along with the gasket (hopefully).

The seat, a whole nother story... I won't get into here, as it's not the appropriate thread for it. Perhaps I'll post somewhere else. Sorry for my rant above. It's just annoying when problems are not addressed and/or corrected.

Re the seat: Let me guess....they spent hours on, not FIXING, but finding another truck that does something kinda sorta like yours, so they could say "see, its normal!" ?
 

GSchwizzy

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Re the seat: Let me guess....they spent hours on, not FIXING, but finding another truck that does something kinda sorta like yours, so they could say "see, its normal!" ?

Yes... exactly. I'll be quick here.

The compared my truck to another 2016 w/only 33K on it and whadya know, it does the same thing!! Hmm... maybe that one's bad too??? DUH!

I can get in a friends 2015 Tradesman with almost 90K on it and his drivers seat is rock solid. They have the tech, advisor, warranty specialist and manager involved. They're discussing and calling me back.

Last statement here... he said, "I'm afraid that if they replace the seat and it does the same thing then we're back to square one". What he means is, we don't want to spend the money on your truck. I doubt it would be even close, and if so... fine, at least we/they tried something. Again, DUH!

Driving a vehicle which drivers' seat moves/pivots at almost every stop/start is really effin' annoying.
 

GSchwizzy

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Well that's good, that's the tick you want to have because it's not internal. Still sucks and it's a huge pain in the nuts to replace the exhaust bolts...

GOOD!! That's why I'm REALLY glad I'm not doing it... and also not paying a red friggin' cent to have it done!
 

chrisbh17

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Yes... exactly. I'll be quick here.

The compared my truck to another 2016 w/only 33K on it and whadya know, it does the same thing!! Hmm... maybe that one's bad too??? DUH!

I can get in a friends 2015 Tradesman with almost 90K on it and his drivers seat is rock solid. They have the tech, advisor, warranty specialist and manager involved. They're discussing and calling me back.

Last statement here... he said, "I'm afraid that if they replace the seat and it does the same thing then we're back to square one". What he means is, we don't want to spend the money on your truck. I doubt it would be even close, and if so... fine, at least we/they tried something. Again, DUH!

Driving a vehicle which drivers' seat moves/pivots at almost every stop/start is really effin' annoying.

Exactly what happened with my 1) 2K RPM vibration and 2) whining A/C compressor.

But I bet they had no problem billing FCA for the time it took them to deny any problem exists......
 

William Hastings

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Truck is in at the dealer now... haven't heard anything yet. Also having them investigate why my drivers seat 'shifts/pivots' fwd and bckwrd when I accelerate and brake. Moves (best guess) about 3/4"... easily. I'm told that "these 8-way power seats sometimes have some play in them, as opposed to manual seats". I call BS. In all the vehicles I've owned, not 1 has had any play in the power seat... ever. I hate, hate, hate when dealerships try defending their products to save $$. I told them about this a year and a half ago, when still under the factory warranty. It still moves, and is slightly worse. It better get fixed. I don't care if a brand new seat needs to be ordered... this shouldn't happen. Does anyone else's seat pivot like this??? This is also a safety concern, not just me being picky.

Sorry... had to vent a little. Will update when I know more.

Interested if they can fix the drivers seat. Mine does same thing. Frame bokts are all tight.
 

GSchwizzy

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So...

The truck is ready for pickup, the 'tick' is fixed. Exhaust manifold, bolts and gasket were replaced. Under warranty, zero charge.

The seat... a new seat back and hinge assembly were ordered, they'll give me a call when they are in. At least something is being done! Also, under warranty... as I raised this issue back in July 2018.
 
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Hemi395

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Well at least they’re doing something about the seat[emoji106][emoji106]
 
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