Rear Row Seat Cover Install

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Craw

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You will see the covers don't go on perfect it is only because I need to re tighten them once they settled a little bit. I think these covers are very much worth it.

Things you need:


1. 550 Cord or a string heavy enough to go down the back of the seat and not break under stress.


2. Seat covers, I have the Cal Trend "I can’t believe it's not leather"


3. Scissors, Razor Blade, Utility cutting knife or a plain knife.


4. Patience.




Step 1: Lay out the Seat Covers so you can ensure everything is there, would suck to be half way and notice something is missing or damaged. At this point you should unbuckle all the straps and check to ensure when you tighten these the strap is facing away from the seat cover you are to be pulling on.


Step 2: To get yourself familiar with the material I suggest doing the headrest first and if arm rest do that as well. Good to start off the install with little victories and a feeling of accomplishment for the slight headache you may have later ha-ha. Just take off the headrest by pressing in the TWO buttons in. There is one sticking out that lets you just adjust the headrest and on the other plastic bit is a button that is flush that needs to be pressed in.

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Step 3: For a 60/40 bench I suggest doing the 40 side first (small side). You need to do the bottom portion (Will your **** sits!) first as this is much easier than the cover for the back.


Step 3B: Lay the cover on the seat and start tucking the cover into the opening of the seat. I suggest doing this at a 45-degree angle as this lets you move the material easier and get your hands through. Once the cover is somewhat on there. Start tightening down the straps and watch it form onto the seat. When all straps are tightened down push the seat back down and inspect your work. Readjust as needed, once satisfied tie the straps to themselves. Don’t need to go crazy on this part as you may want to check out the covers and readjust.

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Craw

Craw

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Step 4: Doing the 60 portion of the 60/40 row. Basically, the same deal here as above just more straps.

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Step 5: By now you have the bottoms on and covers on the head rest and if applicable armrest all done! Woohoo now comes the fun part!


Step 6: Okay this is where the 550 cord comes into play and the blade of choice. Okay like before we are going to start with the smaller portion of the bench. Lay the cover onto the seat and fit the cover best you can on there. Don’t bother pushing in the sides just yet. Okay so you probably are wondering how the hell am I going to get the straps to go around the back? Well 550 Cord for the win. If you can get lucky and the straps don’t get caught cool, otherwise do this. Drop the 550 cord behind the seat slowly, ensure it is long enough to go behind the seat and you looking under it to look for it. Once you see it great, if not lay on your back and stick your arm behind the seat if you can obviously with the **** part of the seat completely up and grab the cord. Now tie the cord to the strap and pull through, easy! Do this each time. Now how about the strap that goes horizontal?!

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Craw

Craw

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Step 6A: Tie the 550 cord to the strap male end. Push this cord and strap into the seat row now and all material. Grab the cord now should be at the bottom and pull it toward the right making its way to the female plastic end until you finally bring it to the side where it clips in.

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Step 6B: Clip the plastic bits together. What I did was take my utility cutter and make a slit in the strap. Take some duct tape and reinforce the hole. Tie one end of the cord with double knot and burn the other end to give it a hard head to help feed through the hole. Pull the cord through the strap. Okay, you are going to feed the cord now attached the strap behind the seat and going down. Once you see it pull it through toward the 60 portion of the row and come out of the hole in the seat that has the seat belt buckles (where you just tucked in the strap in step 6A). Long as nothing got twisted should be able to pull the cord and tighten the strap eventually seeing the strap. Tuck everything in when done.

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Craw

Craw

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Step 7: Basically, the same objective with the other portion BUT behind the armrest portion there is a bit of a blockage, so you are going to need to feed the cords at the seatbelt opening and the divide of the seat row to clear this blockage. Same deal except the horizontal strap goes toward the opposite direction as the clip side is always closest to the door.

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Step 8: Tuck in the material so you can see the plastic parts of your seat where the head rest feed into. I use a card I can care less about to help tuck in the material.


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Tip: If the horizontal strap doesn’t seem to want to be pulled by the cord method it is probably just twisted up being and I found if I held the male and female ends (that are clipped together) it stabilized the strap and allows you to pull as needed.
 
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Hemi395

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Nice write up! I remember struggling through this a couple years ago with my Clazzio seat covers, wish this had been available then...
 
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Craw

Craw

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Nice write up! I remember struggling through this a couple years ago with my Clazzio seat covers, wish this had been available then...

Thank you, the write up took about as long as me doing it hahaha!
 

vhmike73

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It would be nice if FCA's engineers would make the rear seat back latches like those on the F150s. Then you could pull the seatback down and work with it WITHOUT having to go through all the hassles- and it would make lining up the top (and pulling it down tight over the top of the seat) much easier.

Oddly enough, I just did the seat covers on my '16 today (Coverking Spacer Mesh)! The rears didn't align quite as well as I'd wanted, especially on the seat bottom. The cover didn't get pulled quite far enough around the safety seat latch points, especially on the passenger seat. The driver seat did fit better, but it's smaller and there's no seatbelt/cutout/armrest on the smaller portion. You can see the openings in the covers (three ovals of uncovered seat showing!).

I'm going to do the "seatback mod" soon so I can access that little storage area (and install my Kicker Hideaway), so when I pull the seat bolts, I'll just remove the seat fully and snug/align the covers a little better (they look okay, but a touch of OCD will keep me thinking about the areas that are 'off' until I fix 'em!).

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Craw

Craw

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HEMI 5.7
It would be nice if FCA's engineers would make the rear seat back latches like those on the F150s. Then you could pull the seatback down and work with it WITHOUT having to go through all the hassles- and it would make lining up the top (and pulling it down tight over the top of the seat) much easier.

Oddly enough, I just did the seat covers on my '16 today (Coverking Spacer Mesh)! The rears didn't align quite as well as I'd wanted, especially on the seat bottom. The cover didn't get pulled quite far enough around the safety seat latch points, especially on the passenger seat. The driver seat did fit better, but it's smaller and there's no seatbelt/cutout/armrest on the smaller portion. You can see the openings in the covers (three ovals of uncovered seat showing!).

I'm going to do the "seatback mod" soon so I can access that little storage area (and install my Kicker Hideaway), so when I pull the seat bolts, I'll just remove the seat fully and snug/align the covers a little better (they look okay, but a touch of OCD will keep me thinking about the areas that are 'off' until I fix 'em!).

View attachment 151445

Looks very nice, yeah I would do the mod too but that is only if I can get the exact bolts but longer so I dont interfere with the shear force needed to snap the bolts by making less thread contact depth, if that makes sense. For now I will just deal with what I got. To be honest these covers are just to protect the interior from the Wife and Daughter of 4 1/2 lol
 

WTM75

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That look great!! Are these actual covers or did you have to remove the oem seat covers?
 
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