Red Line Synthetic Oil 0W-40 - has anyone tried it in the 5.7 HEMI?

[Burla]

Redline doesn't recommend adding any additives to their oil posted recently. I don't have any voa's.

I don't know from personal experience on filters, I'm rolling with RP personally. SRT is believed to be spun microglass, I'm not 100%, but I believe it is at least a blend. I know what RP are made of, no guessing.

 

[Burla]

Look for 0w40's with mercedes and porsche stay in grade specs and look up the uoa's on bob's, they have amazing stay in grade capabilities hard to believe. Or just run 5w30 redline and be done with it.

 

[Rod Knock]

Look for 0w40's with mercedes and porsche stay in grade specs and look up the uoa's on bob's, they have amazing stay in grade capabilities hard to believe. Or just run 5w30 redline and be done with it.

If you want to see what I'm currently running in our vehicles just look at my signature. In the RAM 1500 5.7 I run Mobil 1 FS (Full SAPS) 0W-40. It actually runs great on it (37 PSI idle / 53 while driving @ 212F). The Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has 1000ppm of Phosphorus, 1100ppm of Zinc, 80ppm of Moly and ~200ppm of Boron. I know that Moly is the talk of the town when it comes to HEMIs, however, I wonder why no one talks about ZDDP, it's just as important, and I think it's part of the reason why RL helps these engines, as it has lots of ZDDP, not just Moly. And Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has Porsche A40 and MB 229.3 and 229.5 approvals. Just wanted to see if I could do a little bit better.

Looks like the Mopar SRT is paper media (cellulose). Pretty disappointed to see that, but hey, the can wall is about 71mm (28 thousands of an inch) thick.

All Purolator BOSS filters are made from polyester. I don't know how it compares to micro-glass media, but it's synthetic media, that's for sure.

Thanks for your time and help!

 

[Burla]

ZDDP hasnt killed the ticks, we have guys dump zddp additives in and subsequently ran redline only to have the later kill their tick. That has been the main driver of oil testing, what kills hemi tick, there hasn't been a lot past that. There is a section of a lot of white paper to zddp in syn thread.

Every oil had zddp, and yet we have hemi tick.

 

[Rod Knock]

ZDDP hasnt killed the ticks, we have guys dump zddp additives in and subsequently ran redline only to have the later kill their tick. That has been the main driver of oil testing, what kills hemi tick, there hasn't been a lot past that. There is a section of a lot of white paper to zddp in syn thread.

Every oil had zddp, and yet we have hemi tick.

Well, API SN+/SP has cut down ZDDP even more. However I understand what you're saying as ZDDP can't help a roller lifter very much. You that there is no test out there showing that ZDDP actually kills catalytic converters, it's just a theory. This makes for an interesting read: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils

 

[Burla]

The paper out there was that zddp was very sacrificial, easily knocked off and put back, which is why they label it anti wear and not extreme pressure additive. If that hemi is ticking, it is easy to figured out that is an extreme pressure situation. It would be nice of they had 100% oil soluble pure moly additive w/o anything else, then it would be easy to test. Now, we know lubegard is working a lot of hemi's, is it the moly or the esters? No way to know. Is it the base oil of redline or the high moly, no way to know, no way to isolate because they don't make pure additives. They do have an ester additive somewhere, but at some point we seam to give up fighting for more options because the two we have are working pretty good and are easy to get in the states.

 

[Rod Knock]

The paper out there was that zddp was very sacrificial, easily knocked off and put back, which is why they label it anti wear and not extreme pressure additive. If that hemi is ticking, it is easy to figured out that is an extreme pressure situation. It would be nice of they had 100% oil soluble pure moly additive w/o anything else, then it would be easy to test. Now, we know lubegard is working a lot of hemi's, is it the moly or the esters? No way to know. Is it the base oil of redline or the high moly, no way to know, no way to isolate because they don't make pure additives. They do have an ester additive somewhere, but at some point we seam to give up fighting for more options because the two we have are working pretty good and are easy to get in the states.

I think you hit the nail on the head! This is why I love debating stuff with like-minded people! So, it's probably both: the high Moly and the Ester that help quiet the tick. Anyway, I only have like 570 miles on the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 so I dumped a 15 oz. bottle of Lubegard Bio/Tech after I warmed up the engine and then waited like 15 minutes to cool back down. Then after pouring it again I let it idle for like 10 minutes and then took a 70 mile ride. I think I overfilled it because it's passed the full mark, so I have about 7.5 or a hair more than that in my crankcase. I hope that's okay. Many engines can take some extra oil.

I can't believe it, but 15 oz. of that stuff thinned out the oil a bit. It didn't change the color, so it was absorbed really well. My idle pressure at 212F went down from 37PSI to 35 PSI, and I've lost 1 PSI while cruising at 70 ~ 75 MPH, so it's 51 PSI instead of 52 now.

I wanted to ask you, what's your idle PSI @ 212F with the Red Line 5W-30? I'm still inclined to go with Red Line. I'm trying to make my engine live longer, not mess it up. I also ordered a few Purolator BOSS PBL24651 oil filters, they are the same size as the RP 20-820 and same weight.

Thank you!

 

[Burla]

Most of the usual's in the syn thread put in 7.5 quarts with no issue, I even go more but don't say how much because I'm not trying to be a pide piper on that one.

Pick what rpm you want me to be at is the only way to guage psi. 2k rpm?

 

[Rod Knock]

Most of the usual's in the syn thread put in 7.5 quarts with no issue, I even go more but don't say how much because I'm not trying to be a pide piper on that one.

Pick what rpm you want me to be at is the only way to gauge psi. 2k rpm?

Just hot idle for now, that would suffice. Let's say when you come to a stoplight off the freeway. Maybe at 1500 rpm and 2000 rpm if you know them, but not as important as idle. At idle at 212F I'm 35 PSI now and at 222F I got 34 PSI. A little over 1500 rpm, I got 52 PSI. Thank you.

By the way, I made two videos after my 70-mile trip to share how my engine sounds. Of course, I don't expect much if anything different. I just want to share and see what you think.

Take a look at the pictures:

 

[Burla]

I will let you know next time I have a hot idle then, those psi seam in line with mine. The truck hardly gets used these days. 35 psi at idle last I remember, 55 psi while driving.

 

[BadHemi2014]

I'm curious about warm idle psi too, mine usually reads at around 47 psi, which is way higher than what's being reported here.
I'm running about 7.5 qt of Redline 5W30 and RP 20-820 filter.

 

[ramffml]

This discussion is timely! I'm running 5w-30 redline with the RP oil filter (there are 2, but the smaller one, forget part #). I've noticed my truck might have some piston slap? Only at cold starts and then only after I drive for about 20 seconds and then stop and idle again after that.

So I start truck, wait for revs to settle, drive off and hit about 50 km/h then pull into a driveway and park/idle. At that point I hear a new noise which might be piston slap, doesn't sound the same as the ticking I had before and is not constant. Just once every few seconds I hear that noise.

But if I do longer trips I never hear it.

However, I have noticed my PSI's during that first 20-30 seconds of driving after cold start, will sometimes reach as high as 4.2 bar which is almost 61 psi. Is that normal? Quite soon after that it drops down to 3.6 bar = 52 psi.

 

[Burla]

I'm curious about warm idle psi too, mine usually reads at around 47 psi, which is way higher than what's being reported here.
I'm running about 7.5 qt of Redline 5W30 and RP 20-820 filter.

cold idle or warm idle

 

[Burla]

This discussion is timely! I'm running 5w-30 redline with the RP oil filter (there are 2, but the smaller one, forget part #). I've noticed my truck might have some piston slap? Only at cold starts and then only after I drive for about 20 seconds and then stop and idle again after that.

So I start truck, wait for revs to settle, drive off and hit about 50 km/h then pull into a driveway and park/idle. At that point I hear a new noise which might be piston slap, doesn't sound the same as the ticking I had before and is not constant. Just once every few seconds I hear that noise.

But if I do longer trips I never hear it.

However, I have noticed my PSI's during that first 20-30 seconds of driving after cold start, will sometimes reach as high as 4.2 bar which is almost 61 psi. Is that normal? Quite soon after that it drops down to 3.6 bar = 52 psi.

How long have you had redline in and how cold is it getting? Piston Slap is usually right when you start the truck. I think my driving psi is about 55, but if you want to compare anyone else's psi to yours, you have to report what rpm you want to compare at.

Is you dip stick right at full? low? or over full 1/2 qrt?

Did you have hemi tick?

 

[BadHemi2014]

cold idle or warm idle

That is at warm idle.

Here is cold idle at ~750 rpm, shortly after idle down. I'll get a pic of warm idle and rpms next time I leave the house.


(Rpm read from TorquePro)

 

[ramffml]

How long have you had redline in and how cold is it getting? Piston Slap is usually right when you start the truck. I think my driving psi is about 55, but if you want to compare anyone else's psi to yours, you have to report what rpm you want to compare at.

Is you dip stick right at full? low? or over full 1/2 qrt?

Did you have hemi tick?

- I've had redline in for about 3000 - 4000 kms
- We still have very hot weather, 30 degrees+, nights are about 20 degrees
- The psi changes; at "cold", I get high psi while taking off normal speed (so rpm never goes above 2000 rpm), but when hot the psi is lower at that same RPM. It's just the initial warmup where I noticed the high psi.
- Dipstick is just under full at this point, though they did overfill slightly when they did the last oil change, maybe by as much as 1/4 inch up the dipstick past the full line

As for the tick; I don't really know, basically I thought my engine made more mechanical chatter noise than it should be making brand new, so I started digging and thought I'd try redline. The noise has been reduced, but I'm still hearing noises, don't know whether it's tick, piston slap, or exhaust.

Yeah this probably isn't very helpful, I'm not terribly good around engines.

 

[Burla]

- I've had redline in for about 3000 - 4000 kms
- We still have very hot weather, 30 degrees+, nights are about 20 degrees
- The psi changes; at "cold", I get high psi while taking off normal speed (so rpm never goes above 2000 rpm), but when hot the psi is lower at that same RPM. It's just the initial warmup where I noticed the high psi.
- Dipstick is just under full at this point, though they did overfill slightly when they did the last oil change, maybe by as much as 1/4 inch up the dipstick past the full line

As for the tick; I don't really know, basically I thought my engine made more mechanical chatter noise than it should be making brand new, so I started digging and thought I'd try redline. The noise has been reduced, but I'm still hearing noises, don't know whether it's tick, piston slap, or exhaust.

Yeah this probably isn't very helpful, I'm not terribly good around engines.

The formula in redline can only do so much, basically luck and testing showed it helps a lot with lifter tick. I don't think what you are describing is cold piston slap, by any chance can you get a video capture of the noise and post it? I wouldn't worry about your psi numbers, they are in normalish range.

 

[Burla]

That is at warm idle.

Here is cold idle at ~750 rpm, shortly after idle down. I'll get a pic of warm idle and rpms next time I leave the house.
View attachment 219895

(Rpm read from TorquePro)

Sorry I see you had to say that twice, apparently I need some reading glasses. Actually high psi at any idle is ideal, so long as it doesn't transfer to high psi when driving. I will go get two psi readings in my truck, one at 2k rpm and another at 3k rpm so you can compare.

 

[BadHemi2014]

Sorry I see you had to say that twice, apparently I need some reading glasses. Actually high psi at any idle is ideal, so long as it doesn't transfer to high psi when driving. I will go get two psi readings in my truck, one at 2k rpm and another at 3k rpm so you can compare.

Lol no problem sir.
I figured higher psi at idle is good with these hemis, I also know my idle psi increased once I switched to the RP filter altho I can't swear to exactly what it was before.
All very good info and glad we are all sharing our experiences.

 

[BadHemi2014]

Academic question, what is danger of too high oil pressure while driving? Gasket leaks, mechanical damage over time? Just curious, best I can relate it to is high blood pressure in people lol.